srv540 said:if you need I can scan and send you the info from the 1998 sno-tek Catalogue it aint much but it some info
sent you a pm.
igolf
New member
Update........
Rode on Tuesday night for the first time this season. Only put on about 30 miles but the conditions were marginal so it was a good test for the M-10.
All I can say is.....WOW!! Absolutely the best thing I ever did to my sled. Wish I would have done it about 5 years ago!
I don't think I need to change anything with the front. Everything seemed great to me.

Rode on Tuesday night for the first time this season. Only put on about 30 miles but the conditions were marginal so it was a good test for the M-10.
All I can say is.....WOW!! Absolutely the best thing I ever did to my sled. Wish I would have done it about 5 years ago!
I don't think I need to change anything with the front. Everything seemed great to me.

hey igolf have you put some miles on that sled since the last post?if so have you noticed anything undesirable?im thinking about putting one in my sled.is it really like nite and day diffrent?i heard those m 10 were a little tough to dial in?any thoughts.
Mahoney
New member
Forget about the M-10 IMO... I had it in my 01 sxr and it rides great, if you don't mind a lack of weight transfer and CONSTANTLY fixing broken parts!!! Don't get me wrong here, I luv the M-10 compared to the no-action(long or short travel), BUT if you REALLY ride hard, you'll luv the ride until something breaks, and then something else, etc... It loves a "scenic" ride, not a "start last, and pass ALL ur buddies!" ride. I have been converted to the EDGE skid and would never go back. Try a search here on it. It was much easier to install and you can find a used one cheaper. Just my two cents. 

change_up
New member
My M-10 held up real well riding the rough. I rode my skid hard when I had it in my 600 SX and never had a problem with it. It's still like new besides the sliders. That thing loved the jumps and anything you threw at it... the only thing I didn't like about it was the weight transfer until I took i think about 3/8" off the coupler blocks.
Last edited:
Mahoney
New member
I'm a lightweight 160# fully geared and I replaced almost every part on mine except the rails and the shaved coupler blocks.
well surely it cant have any less transfer than the no action?or break that darn w arm as easily?
Mahoney
New member
You can get WAY more transfer adjustment out of a properly set-up no-action IMO. (Adj transfer rods,etc.) I mounted my M-10 first as specified for the yamaha and shaved the blocks and was unhappy with digging a hole in the ground @ a starting line every time. Still handled corners like a yamaha, but there was no way those ski were ever coming off the ground. Since it broke so much and I constantly had it out I moved the mount points and it got a little better. I threw the limiter strap in the trash, set front spring w/ a little pressure out of skid, and set up the rear for proper sag. It is awesome in the trails, but don't venture off trail or try to line up w/ ur buddies cause you'll be dissapointed.
It also holds onto hyfax ALOT longer than the no-action w/ the wheel kit and polaris(larger) bogie wheels.
It also holds onto hyfax ALOT longer than the no-action w/ the wheel kit and polaris(larger) bogie wheels.
Chazz
New member
I've had my m10 in my 98 srx700 for 2 years now and love it. I'm 6' and 220 and pound it on the trails and have not had an issue to date.
I bought a clean used M10 pre-99 which Came with Ohlin clickers and uses the polaris front pivot tube. So I was able to use the front and rear stock mounting holes, I did have to add two extra holes near the rear one, for the 3" mounting plate.
With a 1.25 ripsaw track it hooks hard and I love pulling the front end off the ground when I pin it, nice to do when crossing small ditches. The only thing I need to adjust for is a tad less ski pressure when steady on the throttle trail riding. But..Can-it when just come'n out of the corner and the front gets light with the inside ski lifting off the ground.
Best upgrade I've done is the M10, I did do a complete long travel upgrade to my 97 SX700 last year, with brand new KYB front, Ohlin in the rear and Bender transfer rods...it does not even compare.
I bought a clean used M10 pre-99 which Came with Ohlin clickers and uses the polaris front pivot tube. So I was able to use the front and rear stock mounting holes, I did have to add two extra holes near the rear one, for the 3" mounting plate.
With a 1.25 ripsaw track it hooks hard and I love pulling the front end off the ground when I pin it, nice to do when crossing small ditches. The only thing I need to adjust for is a tad less ski pressure when steady on the throttle trail riding. But..Can-it when just come'n out of the corner and the front gets light with the inside ski lifting off the ground.
Best upgrade I've done is the M10, I did do a complete long travel upgrade to my 97 SX700 last year, with brand new KYB front, Ohlin in the rear and Bender transfer rods...it does not even compare.
Last edited:
igolf
New member
madpat
New member
Broken Sled
Where are you at ?I,m in Mukwonago.I just did a m-10 conversion(2003 with fox shocks)blew up sled a week later.Still need a motor.Got any parts ?Sorry to hear about yours.Thanks MadPat
Where are you at ?I,m in Mukwonago.I just did a m-10 conversion(2003 with fox shocks)blew up sled a week later.Still need a motor.Got any parts ?Sorry to hear about yours.Thanks MadPat
hey igolf,were you beating that thing when it broke or what were the circumstances?
lubeowner
New member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2005
- Messages
- 3
He was just trail riding and the bolts broke. We had just made some adjustments to the suspension and you have to loosen those bolts to adjust it. The suspension that we put in Igolf's sled was used so who knows how many times they had been tightened and loosened in the past, thus weakening those bolts. One last tightening of the one bolt was just to much. The bolt on the one side broke on the trail and he had to limp it to the next stop several miles. With the one bolt broke it put a twisting force on the other one until it snapped also. Causing the "low rider" sled. Just so you all know. he drove the sled 2+ miles with it sitting just like it does in that picture. I don't know why but seeing that sled like that going down the tail just seems to be the funnyest thing I have seen in a long time. I am having a hard time controlling my laugh right now, typing this.
Back to the sled, drilled out the broken bolts, put new bolts in and the sled is back to normal. The sled rides awesome with the m-10, night and day difference.
Back to the sled, drilled out the broken bolts, put new bolts in and the sled is back to normal. The sled rides awesome with the m-10, night and day difference.
Last edited:
igolf
New member
Lubeowner summed it up very well. When we finally got to our final resting spot and parked the sled Lubeowner was laughing his arse off. I looked at him and said...."I fail to see the humor in this".
Now, looking back at the picture, it is pretty funny.
Now, looking back at the picture, it is pretty funny.
igolf
New member
Sorry madpat......no parts.
Chazz
New member
Just wondering...what bolts did you need to loosen to adjust the susp, the ones for the FRA? mine came with the jack, nice add on if you don't have it.....
Last edited: