cajones2
Member
Traction experts....I am running my stock track on my 99 SX. Traction has become a significant issue for me. I have purchased a set of adjustable control rods and am going to do some suspension tweaks to get better weight transfer from BETHEBIPER's article. My question is, should I restud my stock track or would i be better off purchasing a hacksaw or something and then studding it? I am looking for good hookup mostly on hardpack or semi hardpack. I mostly trail ride, but like to race on the lake too. I am more into getting to 100 as fast as possible than shooting for a top mph.
1. Does anyone have a recommendation on what track/stud combo would be ideal?
2. What specific suspension mods will improve hookup?
Oh yeah....my 600 has morphed into a big bore with triple pipes....and some mods. I am trying to weigh the difference in traction to the difference in price between those two approaches. I'd like to find a used track if possible with 1" lug and run 1.075" goldiggers...I hear some people run 1.175 on that sled to.
1. Does anyone have a recommendation on what track/stud combo would be ideal?
2. What specific suspension mods will improve hookup?
Oh yeah....my 600 has morphed into a big bore with triple pipes....and some mods. I am trying to weigh the difference in traction to the difference in price between those two approaches. I'd like to find a used track if possible with 1" lug and run 1.075" goldiggers...I hear some people run 1.175 on that sled to.
Ripsaws are good, had a had hacksaw as well. I liked the hacksaw better but that was only a 1", but have ridden a SXR with 1.25 ripsaw with studs and that was nice as well. But I am soon to be going with a 136" ripsaw with 192 studs.
yamahauler4
New member
I had the factory track with 192 studs... hated it. Got a 1.25 ripsaw... night and day!! I love that track on the trails, pretty good offtrail, definitely NOT a speed track. At On the lake at 105mph speedo (95ish GPS) that thing howls like mad... Im sure it creates tunnel drag since it's such a tight fit. But it fits me just fine.
edit: no studs in ripsaw... not a fan of them, and haven't missed them yet!
edit: no studs in ripsaw... not a fan of them, and haven't missed them yet!
cajones2
Member
Would a 1" hacksaw be a good compromise between the traction and the top end? I believe it is the same profile as the hacksaw. Also, i hear of some guys buying a taller lugged track and then shaving down the lugs...what's up with that?
SRXKID
New member
i have a 1.50 intense and i tell you what i will never go small that 1.50. if you go with a i1.50 dont plan on having studs bc there in no room at all for them. but traction in the trails and off trail is awsome and in the hard pack i hook up like crazy.
cajones2
Member
What adjustments do you guys make to the skid to better transfer weight and hook up?
SWEDE
New member
The 1" predator with studs would be a nice comprimise.Good on hardpack and good in the looser snow as well and you could still run studs with no problems.If you wanted to go the no stud route that new cobra is supposed to be awsome.
cajones2
Member
I have heard good things about the predator via the forum here. I'll definitely need studs because I ride the river quite a bit and need to make sure I get some decent bite when I need it.
Does anyone know how much top speed you lose with a predator track v/s a hacksaw. I seen bob has done testing with both but was curious about the data.
Can I find a used track easily, or will I need to purchase it new?
Does anyone know how much top speed you lose with a predator track v/s a hacksaw. I seen bob has done testing with both but was curious about the data.
Can I find a used track easily, or will I need to purchase it new?
JohnnyQuest
Member
Check TRACKS USA out of MN, they have used tracks for sale quite often!
cajones2
Member
There seems to be a lot of 1.25" tracks on ebay. Is there anything I would have to tweak to run a 1.25" lug with studs?
Cole -> You mentioned you ran a 1.25" track with studs...did you have to do anything creative to get that to work or is it a plug and play type of deal. I have front heat exchanger protectors and tunnel protectors installed. Nothing for the rear heat exchanger. Let me know about the 1.25" lug with studs...
Cole -> You mentioned you ran a 1.25" track with studs...did you have to do anything creative to get that to work or is it a plug and play type of deal. I have front heat exchanger protectors and tunnel protectors installed. Nothing for the rear heat exchanger. Let me know about the 1.25" lug with studs...
SWEDE
New member
You should run 8 tooth drivers with studs and 1.25" track for clearance.Some on here do it with the stock drivers, but I personally would'nt, your call.
cajones2
Member
Sounds good, I'll stick to the 1" lug with 1.075 studs. Would I need a rear heat exchanger protector if I install the larger SRX rear cooler? Thanks again.
yamahauler4
New member
I put a 1.25 in mine, no studs, took out tunnel protectors (under seat) and frt exch protector for clearance. No trimming of track. To stud, must run 8" drivers to clear frt exch, and not sure wtd about tunnel protection. I have no issues with my setup.cajones2 said:
I am doing a track right now on my 1997 sx 700. I also asked the forum for advice and got the same as you did. I chose to go with the 1" Predator with 144 studs. I chose the Predator just for the fact that everyone said it would not compromise top end. I do a lot of lake and trail running and need the studs to keep me planted. My dealer also advised the 1"1/4 ripsaw ( no studs )but told me it would bring down my top end a little. Good luck with your choice. I will post my experience when the snow flies. 
horkn
New member
I was in the same predicament with out Venture. The stock track was lik a .75, and it sucked. I found a used camoplast from a doo 2 up, .92 and ran 108 studs from Rich, and it is night and day.
I wanted to get a ripsaw in 1.25, but then I would have had to go with 8t drivers, and I did not want to mess with that for the 2 up. The ripsaw is a very nice track, and hooks up pretty well even with no studs. I found that out by doing yamaha demo rides the last several years.
I would think you would need HX protection regardless if you kept the stock one, or the SRX one.
I wanted to get a ripsaw in 1.25, but then I would have had to go with 8t drivers, and I did not want to mess with that for the 2 up. The ripsaw is a very nice track, and hooks up pretty well even with no studs. I found that out by doing yamaha demo rides the last several years.
I would think you would need HX protection regardless if you kept the stock one, or the SRX one.
cajones2
Member
I am really thinking i am going to go with the 1" predator due to not having to swap out drivers and run 144 1.075" picks with the taller nuts. Now I just need to find me a good rear suspension setup to get some good transfer and hook up. Does anyone have input on that??? (I don't mean to hyjack my own thread here) =)
swmichsx
New member
i put a viper skid and front shocks on my sx700. wow! what a difference. not as good as an m10 or an expert but not as much money either. i am still running the crappy stock track but i cant afford a new track this year so it will have to do till next year. i will probably be getting a 1" kimpex track next fall.