marty f
New member
does anyone know if the shaft bearing on the clutch side is the same size bearing that the bogey wheels have is it an 6205 rs
shaft bearing?
- Thread starter marty f
- Start date
Danger Dog
Member
No it is not. The drive shaft has a lock collar and is flat and the jackshaft is a dome with a lock collar.
Roost 'Er
Member
Hes talking about speedo side and yes i do believe that is a 6205.
DangerDog is correct.
Clutch/speedo side jackshaft and driveshaft bearings are NOT regular 6205 bearings. While the basic demensions may be the same as a 6205, they both have intergrated collars on them that accept set screws to tighten them to the shafts. The jackshaft does have a radius on the outside of the outer race and the driveshaft is flat on the outside of the outer race.
Clutch/speedo side jackshaft and driveshaft bearings are NOT regular 6205 bearings. While the basic demensions may be the same as a 6205, they both have intergrated collars on them that accept set screws to tighten them to the shafts. The jackshaft does have a radius on the outside of the outer race and the driveshaft is flat on the outside of the outer race.
Roost 'Er
Member
100% i used 6205.
Looked it up and both jackshaft and driveshaft on the chaincase side accept the 6205.
Looked it up and both jackshaft and driveshaft on the chaincase side accept the 6205.
TJ500
Member
Roost 'Er said:
If marty f is talking about the speedo side or better yet the PTO side, and I do believe he is.... Then Crewchief47 and Danger Dog are correct... The bearing is NOT like the boggie bearings...
What side are you referring to?
Roost 'Er said:
I think what we have here is a failure to communicate.
9801srx
Member
the clutch side jackshaft brg is a (as205) and the drive shaft brg is a (ub205) . both have the same i.d and o.d as a 6205 but they both have a locking collar on them. also like crew chief said the as205 has a radiused outer race and the ub205 has a square outer race like a 6205.
After having done way too much research on this topic over the last several years, I have come to the conclusion that you are best off simply buying these 2 bearings (AS205 and UB205) from your favorite Yamaha parts source as service parts. There are several that advertise on here.
I have studied the technical engineering data on the original equipment, and spent numerous hours with bearing suppliers cross referencing them to other manufacturers. I rarely found a supply source that could beat the prices in the small volumes (less than 1000) that we would be interested in.
The UB205 bearing was originally designed as a pillow block bearing, so it must be specially packaged for Yamaha as a service part. (similar to private branding)
Just remember that all 6205 bearings are not created equal, those extra letters indicate tolerances (important for cold temps), seal type and material, and any special specs.
I have a ton more tech info on these bearings downloaded, and my own theories written down somewhere, but I won't bore you here any more than I already have.
There are people that simply run the 6205's, in fact some large mail order houses list the 6205 as a direct replacement. However, I believe that Yamaha spec'ed the double set screw - attached - locking collar for a reason. I have seen the shaft after it rotated in the bearing, and the gears after too much end-play occurred.
I recommend the Yamaha service part. With a fair discount they aren't really that badly priced. For all other 6205's I like the NTN Formula series, as it seems to last the best. You can still get them for under $10.
I have studied the technical engineering data on the original equipment, and spent numerous hours with bearing suppliers cross referencing them to other manufacturers. I rarely found a supply source that could beat the prices in the small volumes (less than 1000) that we would be interested in.
The UB205 bearing was originally designed as a pillow block bearing, so it must be specially packaged for Yamaha as a service part. (similar to private branding)
Just remember that all 6205 bearings are not created equal, those extra letters indicate tolerances (important for cold temps), seal type and material, and any special specs.
I have a ton more tech info on these bearings downloaded, and my own theories written down somewhere, but I won't bore you here any more than I already have.
There are people that simply run the 6205's, in fact some large mail order houses list the 6205 as a direct replacement. However, I believe that Yamaha spec'ed the double set screw - attached - locking collar for a reason. I have seen the shaft after it rotated in the bearing, and the gears after too much end-play occurred.
I recommend the Yamaha service part. With a fair discount they aren't really that badly priced. For all other 6205's I like the NTN Formula series, as it seems to last the best. You can still get them for under $10.
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I may be old, but I am slow . . .
Roost 'Er
Member
Sorry Crew i think i even confused myself with those posts.
Ding i use solely NTN formula series bearings, i find them much better then all others i have used.
Ding i use solely NTN formula series bearings, i find them much better then all others i have used.
That's cool! I think we covered it in 12 posts. 
Any other worldly problems we need to tackle now?
Marty, I hope this is as clear as mud for you.
Any other worldly problems we need to tackle now?Marty, I hope this is as clear as mud for you.
Roost 'Er
Member
crewchief47 said:That's cool! I think we covered it in 12 posts.
Marty, I hope this is as clear as mud for you.
Haha... word of advice to the guy changing them tho, put a TAD of never-seize on the collar allen keys, the allen key is soo small if they get any rust on them youll break the key trying to get it off so just a tad will prevent this.