VenomMod
New member
I'd seen a thread on here that reminded me to ask. I put the AAEN triples on my sled a few years ago and seen that the flanges cover up to probably 1/5 to 1/4th the exhaust. I tried putting the flanges on every which way. All three of them are the same. I'm sure this is robbing me on some power these pipes have to offer. I was wondering what you guys have to say, or if others had this experience. I was just thinking about this, as I'm going to pick up my sled over Thanksgiving break and fix it up.
ExpertXViper
New member
As you prolly read the CPR pipes thread posted by Mopar, theres only 2 ways that the manifolds can mount to the cylinders with these(CPR) pipes 1 wrong/1 right. I have no experience with the AAEN's triples, so all I can tell you is figure out how many ways they can be mounted and see what fits best. Did you have any fitment issues with the pipes lining up to the cylinders/manifolds or exhaust outlets not lining up with the exhaust hole in the belly pan?
mopar1rules
Active member
i think i know what your talking about venom....as i have the same issues w/my aaen pipes on my viper. the hole that's cut into the exhaust manifold flange, is a little smaller in diameter, than the exhaust port coming out of the cylinder. so, you're saying that the exhaust flow is smacking into the areas around the edge of the hole in the flange, from it not being the same size as the exhaust port. i took a dynafile (deburring air tool from work...you could take a die grinder w/carbide burr) and i made the holes in the flange match the exhaust ports. i was disappointed myself, w/the hole size vs the exhaust port size...come on aaen.
as for my topic on the cpr pipe fitment, i know i have the exhaust manifolds on correctly, cause if you have it on one way, the manifold is offset like a good 1/8" from the exhaust port and then if you flip it 180deg, it fits fine. i called cpr about my fitment issues and he said i need to cut/grind that aluminum brace, that's right above the recoil, to create clearance for the silencer to connect to the mag pipe. what a joke?
as for my topic on the cpr pipe fitment, i know i have the exhaust manifolds on correctly, cause if you have it on one way, the manifold is offset like a good 1/8" from the exhaust port and then if you flip it 180deg, it fits fine. i called cpr about my fitment issues and he said i need to cut/grind that aluminum brace, that's right above the recoil, to create clearance for the silencer to connect to the mag pipe. what a joke?
VenomMod
New member
ExpertXViper-I found the best way that they fit (largest available opening for exhaust) and mounted the pipes in, and didn't have any problems with fitment. They go in and out real easy and smooth. I'm just bothered by how much of the exhaust is blocked off by the flanges. I'm not any expert by no means, but it simply seems that these motors really on air movement and rely on smooth transitions. Maybe I'm over thinking and they're fine, but Mopar's post had me thinking.
ExpertXViper
New member
mopar1rules said:
Thats funny, that brace has not been altered/modded in anyway on my g/f's SXR and I have no problems getting them to fit. Where's JohnnyQuest? I know hes running these pipes also.
mopar1rules
Active member
expert, you got an e-mail? i took pics showing my fitment issues. i'd like to send them to you to show you my dilema. also, now i see when i go to close the hood, the pto side of the hood stays up about 1", cause the mag pipe (one that loops around), hits on the bottom of the hood and on the main wires running from the headlight and speedo, etc. so expertx, you never had to modify your aluminum chassis brace by the recoil?
mopar1rules
Active member
ExpertXViper
New member
WOW!!!!! You werent kidding it being off a 1in or so. How thick is that heat wrap? That possibly could be part of your problem, pending how thick and how many times that heat wrap has been layered on each pipe. Ill TRY(got some stuff going on tonight) and take some pics tonight with the pipes on and off since nothing is springed in place yet. Shoot me your email.
mopar1rules
Active member
yeah, its not even close. i can't even see these pipes working. cpr told me he had 2 versions? i was unaware of that. expertx, that would be great if you could shoot me some pics. my email is:
mopar_rules1@hotmail.com
oh yeah, heat wrap is 1/8" thick. i can't see that making a difference....especially the amount that the pipe is off, in my scenario.
...yeah, i kinda ran out of heat tape. i got more to finish that pipe, just need to do it yet....this stuff is a pita!...lol.
mopar_rules1@hotmail.com
oh yeah, heat wrap is 1/8" thick. i can't see that making a difference....especially the amount that the pipe is off, in my scenario.
...yeah, i kinda ran out of heat tape. i got more to finish that pipe, just need to do it yet....this stuff is a pita!...lol.
JohnnyQuest
Member
You are exactly right about the heat wrap being in the way as part of the problem. Mopar and I have exchanged a couple of emails this morning concerning the issue of the pipes fitting, I didn't even THINK of the heat wrap!! I have no problem getting all of mine into my SX_R. No grinding needed! BUT the pipes are TIGHT and are ALMOST touching each other in MANY different spots!
I've helped put the same set in two different sleds now and they basically dropped right in. They sure don't fit like my benders.
ExpertXViper
New member
Made A Correction
2 problems areas with the heat tape. 1 where the MAG pipes sits on(mine is on)/near the shock tower(LH side) would cause the pipe to twist down ward. 2 where the MAG pipes sits on top of the MID pipe would cause the same problem as #1. 1/8in layered over and over in these 2 spots could be causing the fitment issues. Mopar did you test fit these pipes before wrapping them? If not, I hate to say it but start un-wrapping brother. Cause from what I see in your pics even if you were to remove whatever amount of material on that brace, it looks like it still wont clear correctly.
JohnnyQuest said:
2 problems areas with the heat tape. 1 where the MAG pipes sits on(mine is on)/near the shock tower(LH side) would cause the pipe to twist down ward. 2 where the MAG pipes sits on top of the MID pipe would cause the same problem as #1. 1/8in layered over and over in these 2 spots could be causing the fitment issues. Mopar did you test fit these pipes before wrapping them? If not, I hate to say it but start un-wrapping brother. Cause from what I see in your pics even if you were to remove whatever amount of material on that brace, it looks like it still wont clear correctly.
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JohnnyQuest
Member
I agree with ya Expert! My pipes are fitted EXACTLY how you indicated that yours are!
mopar1rules
Active member
sorry guys, i never test fit the pipes prior to wrapping. none of you guys had to shave down the top of the shock tower a little bit or anything, so the mag pipe would sit down a little bit there? also, none of you needed to modify the chassis bracket above the recoil? i can't see the heat tape causing soo many issues. it's so thin, but if things are tight to begin with, 1/8" here and a 1/8" there, can change things. darn it...this really is starting to suck....lol. did any of you guys heat tape your pipes, or did you guys just cry once and pay for the ceramic coating?
ExpertXViper
New member
mopar1rules said:
Paint works just fine for my g/f.....LOL..... I told her if she wanted them shiney she can pay for it($300-$400) otherwise, Ill clean and re-spray them for nothing and thats what I did with VHT Black hi temp paint.
Note I made a mistake in my last post, I meant where the MAG pipes sits on the MID which would cause it to flex downward.
Only thing I did for these pipes was cut a template out of cardboard for the exhaust hole since the stingers were melting into the belly pan. Then transfered my template on a sheet of aluminum, backed the piece with 1/4in wood, cut it out with a jigsaw and riveted it to the inside of the belly pan. Ill send ya pics of that also. I will be adding heat tape to a few spots where there are some rub and melt marks but I still dont have fitment issues.
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JohnnyQuest
Member
No heat wrap here, we have a nickel plating tank at work....oh how convenient!! No grinding, no cutting. I also made a plate for where the silencers exit the belly pan. I added heat tape to a few places under the hood and re routed the wiring and wrapped that in ceramic backed wrap to prevent melting
VenomMod
New member
I'm glad you guys got that figured out (Not sarcastic in any way). I'm still wondering how much power I'm being robbed by this obstructing in air flow. Would it be too wild to try to make some new flanges that make the transition smoother, or am I should I simply leave it alone?
mopar1rules
Active member
venommod, i would take them out and use a sanding drum or carbide burr, or even a dremel, and match the holes in the flange to the exhaust port hole in the cylinder for a smooth transition. no need to make entirely new ones.
ExpertXViper
New member
mopar1rules said:
X2^^^^^^^^^
VenomMod
New member
I'm not even sure there's enough material to match the holes exactly. I'll have to take a look. If not maybe I'll just try to match the holes as much as possible. I'm just sort of disappointed that they didn't match up very well for paying so much for them.