8 thooth drivers tring to figure out if I should?

[hereismylife]

I been reading n searching this for 2 yrs now. I never ran these before but I do have them for both my sleds. I did see if you run them.
1. you might ratchet ( I can get x drivers to solve this).
2. speedo will be off unless you change the gearing teeth.
3. will put more of an angle on the track. ( I guess this will hurt the track)?
4. will gain more clearence for the track with studs.


Now what I don't get

If I use the 8 tooth with the x drivers n gear down than what will be the differnece then using the 9 tooth. If I am right everything should be the same. Maybe I am missing something?

I hate doing something n finding out the hard way that is why I am asking.

thanks Joe

 

[A K MtnViper]

The main reason to go to 8 tooth anti-ratchet drivers is if you go to a bigger lug track or a longer track is to prevent ratcheting (the track jumping over the drive wheel lugs). Doing this also allows you to run a looser track, which puts more HP to the ground and makes the Hyfax last longer. It also gives more clearance for the track vs tunnel. The more clearance the less air resistance, equals more HP to the ground.

 

[valin]

However.....running smaller drivers are less efficient. It takes less hp to turn a track around a big driver than a small driver.

 

[hereismylife]

However.....running smaller drivers are less efficient. It takes less hp to turn a track around a big driver than a small driver.

I kinda understand what you mean except if you change the gear doesn't that make up for the more hp on the smaller driver?

 

[valin]

Gearing does not change hp.....it changes drive ratio. When you take a track and try to bend it over a smaller diameter, it is more difficult. You're trying to bend something that wants to be straight, which creates rolling resistance, so it is alot easier for it to bend over a larger diameter, and requires less power to do so. You will be faster on the radar run with larger drivers. They help in getting the power to the ground. Then again, you have to also change the diameter of the rear wheels to accomplish this properly.

 

[mrviper700]

why do you want to use 8 tooth drivers?

Is it for stud clearance with a large lug track of 1.25" or more?

Depending upon which model sled you are talking about, you can run a 1 inch with pretty large studs and also a 1.25" lug with studs if the track tension is watched closely. You can run up to a 1.75" lug track with stock 9 tooth drivers(no studs), these all will fit with the stock 9 tooth drivers. I will tell you 8 tooth drivers will slow your sled down alot, you will need to regear the chaincase, redo the speedo pick up or gearbox, there is a need for the big lug tracks 2 inch lug and up but if your not riding in 6 ft of snow all the time, there is no gain to going to 8 tooth drivers. Its also very expensive to do so by the time you add up the gears, sppedo calibration, anti rachet drivers etc.

 

[Thumper1]

so you have to recalibrate the speedo after you change the gearing?

 

[hereismylife]

why do you want to use 8 tooth drivers?

Is it for stud clearance with a large lug track of 1.25" or more?

Depending upon which model sled you are talking about, you can run a 1 inch with pretty large studs and also a 1.25" lug with studs if the track tension is watched closely. You can run up to a 1.75" lug track with stock 9 tooth drivers(no studs), these all will fit with the stock 9 tooth drivers. I will tell you 8 tooth drivers will slow your sled down alot, you will need to regear the chaincase, redo the speedo pick up or gearbox, there is a need for the big lug tracks 2 inch lug and up but if your not riding in 6 ft of snow all the time, there is no gain to going to 8 tooth drivers. Its also very expensive to do so by the time you add up the gears, sppedo calibration, anti rachet drivers etc.

Well I am running a 00 sxr 700 & a 03 viper. The reason is I don't want to run into a problem with a 1.25 track with studs. I did have a studded stock track on my sxr and I did see the damage they can do. It did hit the front heat exchanger but no damage. I just want to make sure I do not run into a problem down the road. Also you know how it goes " man I should of did the extra so this would no of happened. Also if the studs do hit the front heat exchanger then I have to take the track off anyhow. I just don't want a future possible problem. I do appreciate the input.

It does sound like alot of work doing the 8t. I already have the skids & tracks off both sleds. 8t drivers for both sleds. I do see on the sxr it is a close fit running studs on the stock track. Just not sure what to do..... Very fustrating

 

[Zachalyse]

Well I am running a 00 sxr 700 & a 03 viper. The reason is I don't want to run into a problem with a 1.25 track with studs. I did have a studded stock track on my sxr and I did see the damage they can do. It did hit the front heat exchanger but no damage. I just want to make sure I do not run into a problem down the road. Also you know how it goes " man I should of did the extra so this would no of happened. Also if the studs do hit the front heat exchanger then I have to take the track off anyhow. I just don't want a future possible problem. I do appreciate the input.

It does sound like alot of work doing the 8t. I already have the skids & tracks off both sleds. 8t drivers for both sleds. I do see on the sxr it is a close fit running studs on the stock track. Just not sure what to do..... Very fustrating

I was right there with you with the agonizing.
After on and on reading with so many different opinions, I decided to stay stock (9 tooth). Yamaha made it this way, so I will keep it this way. I'm adding a 1.25" track and will check my clearance. Many on here are being very VERY cautious about studding. Almost to a point where it is a rule not to. But, I have found and spoken to many who have real world results and many miles running a 1.25" studded track. Just watch your stud length and don't clip your lugs too low. I've heard of many that have done this without any problems and haven't really heard of anyone who has done it and had a problem. Good luck with your decision.

 

[hereismylife]

Thanks For the info
The viper has a 1.25 track on it now with the 9t drivers. The only place I see it hits is right under the tank. Also it is hit evenly across the tunnel there also. Now maybe it was cause the track was way loose but not sure. That is why I am concerned. If it hits already without studs what will it do if I get studs in the future. It ran fine before I got it but you know how that goes. I just don't want to have to change the drivers before I stud....ect..ect...

 

[hereismylife]

Here is an update. Thanks to a call to a nice,wonderful,& very helpful member here I am going to use the 9t drivers.

My goal is to either

1. Keep the 1 1/4 tracks & run them this year to see how they work.

2. Sell them & run 1" 6 pitch tracks & run studs down the middle.

I think the best thing to do in the end is run the 9t drivers with a 1" track with studs down the middle. I think this would be the best of both worlds. I guess we will see.

Also if I had the $$$$ I would just get 2 1" tracks & get them on since they are both off but money is tight.. nothing new

Thanks for all the help guys

 

[Mighty]

The viper I bought this summer has a 1.25 inch 6 pitch track stretched to 136. I looked at the clearance between the front cooler and the track and there seems to be plenty of clearance. The paddles actually have notches in them from coming into contact with the guards up front. Or the original owner notched each paddle. In either case, if I go with like a 1.325 stud and keep them closer to the windows I think I would be safe. If the track balloons it will simply hit the guards. My buddy thinks I'm nuts and should install 8 tooth drivers. Do you guys think I can get away with studs and what length do you recommend? I'm not too concerned about penetration for accelleration but for stopping. I was thinking that if I used a stud that just peeked its head over the paddle it would be similar to an ice ripper track.
Your thoughts?
Thanks.

 

[A K MtnViper]

I have one final thought about Changing driver size or track paddle height. Either one will change your over all gear ratio and speedo reading. Longer paddle, makes speedo read slow and raises gearing, shorter does just the opposite, not a lot but it does happen.

 

[hereismylife]

The viper I bought this summer has a 1.25 inch 6 pitch track stretched to 136. I looked at the clearance between the front cooler and the track and there seems to be plenty of clearance. The paddles actually have notches in them from coming into contact with the guards up front. Or the original owner notched each paddle. In either case, if I go with like a 1.325 stud and keep them closer to the windows I think I would be safe. If the track balloons it will simply hit the guards. My buddy thinks I'm nuts and should install 8 tooth drivers. Do you guys think I can get away with studs and what length do you recommend? I'm not too concerned about penetration for acceleration but for stopping. I was thinking that if I used a stud that just peeked its head over the paddle it would be similar to an ice ripper track.
Your thoughts?
Thanks.

This is how it was explained over the phone. If you run the 1.25 track you can only go to 1 3/8 studs MAX. This means you only get minimum stud penetration. It would do the same as a ice ripper. It would be more cost affective to run the 1.00 track and run longer studs so this way you get the most affect out of the stud. So this way you get a happy medium. It just does not make sense to get min stud penetration. I look at it if you are going to spend a lot of money on this try and gain the most you can. It all come down to what you want to do. I just hate wasting money and also be unhappy.

hopefully this helps you out.

 

[Mighty]

This is how it was explained over the phone. If you run the 1.25 track you can only go to 1 3/8 studs MAX. This means you only get minimum stud penetration. It would do the same as a ice ripper. It would be more cost affective to run the 1.00 track and run longer studs so this way you get the most affect out of the stud. So this way you get a happy medium. It just does not make sense to get min stud penetration. I look at it if you are going to spend a lot of money on this try and gain the most you can. It all come down to what you want to do. I just hate wasting money and also be unhappy.

hopefully this helps you out.

I gotta chance to take this fella out tonight and play in the fields around my house and like how the 1.25 6 pitch pulls the sled through the fluff too much to go back to a 1 incher. I'm really more concerned about braking coming into icy corners. On hard pack I bet this track will hook pretty good.

 

[hereismylife]

I gotta chance to take this fella out tonight and play in the fields around my house and like how the 1.25 6 pitch pulls the sled through the fluff too much to go back to a 1 incher. I'm really more concerned about braking coming into icy corners. On hard pack I bet this track will hook pretty good.

Well you can go up to 1 3/8 stud n that will help out with the braking. I don't think you will see much difference so impo it would not be worth the money.


Who knows. Good luck on whatever you do.