part number for 2.5 mm spacer
- Thread starter hotrodd
- Start date
ecopter
New member
hotrodd,
The part number for the 2.5 mm spacer is : 90202-16229
You won't find it under the online Yamaha parts inventory as it's a special order item and you'll usually only find stock equipment on there.
Jon
The part number for the 2.5 mm spacer is : 90202-16229
You won't find it under the online Yamaha parts inventory as it's a special order item and you'll usually only find stock equipment on there.
Jon
Jon - that's exactly what i'm looking for. I was informed of a different part number from somene else and got the wrong part. I appreciate your help! Especially this winter when I am ridding not not doing slides every 5 hundred miles.
Pray for snow
Pray for snow
ecopter
New member
Hey, that's what we're all here for. By the way, I put the new idler wheels on the other day; Kimpex 5.350 x .750. They are much better and will definitely cut down on the wear (and worry) of the dreaded SRX melting.
Jon
Jon
Viper Sniper
New member
Where did you guys get those Kimpex idlers from and how much per wheel? Bearing included?
Get the spacers at Lowes. They are 2.5 mm thick, and like 6 cents. There in the section where the small machine bolts and stuff are. Maxdlx
sxray
Member
max, wish you would have posted this yesterday, ordered some today from dealer. oh well, a day late and a dollar short. ray
Jon - DId they send you the bushings with your wheels? I didn't get any but called and they are looking into it. It states right on the page that they are included but at the top is says they must be ordered seperate. They are supposed to call me today and see if I get them included.
Mark
Mark
ecopter
New member
Mark,
I got everything necessary for the installation. However, you don't need anything on the new wheel (other than the bearing installed and circlip'd in). Yes, mine had the bushings (plastic ones) but I removed them and installed the ones from the stock wheels. Also, you'll use the metal spacer that fits into the inside of the plastic bushings (that's also from the stock wheel). So, in a nut shell, if you have just the wheel and bearing installed, use the hardware from the stock wheels and you should be good to go.
Jon
I got everything necessary for the installation. However, you don't need anything on the new wheel (other than the bearing installed and circlip'd in). Yes, mine had the bushings (plastic ones) but I removed them and installed the ones from the stock wheels. Also, you'll use the metal spacer that fits into the inside of the plastic bushings (that's also from the stock wheel). So, in a nut shell, if you have just the wheel and bearing installed, use the hardware from the stock wheels and you should be good to go.
Jon
ecopter
New member
One more thing: If you order from JR Graham, the part number that I used was KX411667. This particular part number included all the stuff.
Cheer,
Jon
Cheer,
Jon
figured it out - just wasn't sure if I need a special tool or something. Worked great and wheels look good.
Jon - What was your final spec on the limiter strap adjustment? I had mine originally at 1 1/4 inch from bracket to end of bolt and just tried the updated spec at 42mm or 1/2 inch. It brought to rear of the suspension down a tad. I finally ended up at 1 11/16 so we'll give that a shot. The tail end of the suspension is still sitting up a tad and was curious if yours was also. I should have my 2.5 spacer in a few days.
Jon - What was your final spec on the limiter strap adjustment? I had mine originally at 1 1/4 inch from bracket to end of bolt and just tried the updated spec at 42mm or 1/2 inch. It brought to rear of the suspension down a tad. I finally ended up at 1 11/16 so we'll give that a shot. The tail end of the suspension is still sitting up a tad and was curious if yours was also. I should have my 2.5 spacer in a few days.
ecopter
New member
Mark,
I re-adjusted the limiters and instead of the 42mm I had last year, I placed them at 36mm since I have the different wheels (32mm is stock). I want a little weight off the front end, however, I might be pulling the straps after a few rides depending on the Ripsaw traction. I'm only running 6 inch carbides, so with a new track that supposedly reacts as if it's studded, I may do a little pushing in the corners. If that in fact happens, I'll go back towards the 40 mm range, although I won't go as far as I was. I'll simply soften the front shocks a bit or reduce the center shock preload.
Yea, I just used a flat head screw driver between the "seam" of the two bushings. A bit of a tap and they flew right out. Glad all worked out for you.
Jon
I re-adjusted the limiters and instead of the 42mm I had last year, I placed them at 36mm since I have the different wheels (32mm is stock). I want a little weight off the front end, however, I might be pulling the straps after a few rides depending on the Ripsaw traction. I'm only running 6 inch carbides, so with a new track that supposedly reacts as if it's studded, I may do a little pushing in the corners. If that in fact happens, I'll go back towards the 40 mm range, although I won't go as far as I was. I'll simply soften the front shocks a bit or reduce the center shock preload.
Yea, I just used a flat head screw driver between the "seam" of the two bushings. A bit of a tap and they flew right out. Glad all worked out for you.
Jon
ecopter
New member
Yea, my track still angles up towards the back. I think it's just the inheriant trait of the SRX. Maybe it has to do with when the acceleration force is applied which couples the suspension, thereby inducing a weight transfer which flatens the track against the surface. How's that sound?
Jon
Jon