23outlaw
New member
I just got my power valve calibration tool from bender, hooked it up and the servo motor does nothing. Is there anything I could be doing wrong? Problem with the servo motor?
daman
New member
did ya have the key on and hooked to a battery??
daman said:did ya have the key on and hooked to a battery??
LOL! I laughed out loud when I seen that!
Daman, PM sent!
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23outlaw
New member
Yes I had the key on and hooked to a battery!!
23outlaw said:Yes I had the key on and hooked to a battery!!
Lol, Why so angry?
Your servo could be shot.
daman
New member
23outlaw i was not trying to be funny,,just wanted to make sure were on the same page starting out here,,try this lower your idle down to 900 rpm with your servo cover off,,should see the servo accuate...
23outlaw
New member
I wasn't mad guy's. I like a good laugh too!
As stated, I would idle the sled below 900RPM and with the cover off see if the servo moves. If not, Get another one!
If the sled is running now,not in a state of summer storage,when you start it up you should see a series of 3 flashes of the temp light to show all is good with the electrical system.Any other flashes besides the 3 normal ones will indicated a problem and if you see this mark down the number and frequency of them and post here,someone should be able to help you out.
mopar1rules
Active member
did you blow the fuse on the pv tester?
are the connectors for the pv tester, making a connection into the plug, that they plug into?
if your pv tester came w/instructions like my buddies did, you have to flip the blue and red wires around, from what the intstructions said.
while looking into the connector on the sled, having the locking tab on top, the black wire should be on the bottom, and then the red wire i believe went to the top right and blue to the top left. if that doesn't work, maybe the red and blue wires are flip flopped then. i don't have the instruction sheet in front of me, so if i'm wrong, you know why...lol.
are the connectors for the pv tester, making a connection into the plug, that they plug into?
if your pv tester came w/instructions like my buddies did, you have to flip the blue and red wires around, from what the intstructions said.
while looking into the connector on the sled, having the locking tab on top, the black wire should be on the bottom, and then the red wire i believe went to the top right and blue to the top left. if that doesn't work, maybe the red and blue wires are flip flopped then. i don't have the instruction sheet in front of me, so if i'm wrong, you know why...lol.
23outlaw
New member
mopar1rules said:did you have to flip the blue and red wires around
It has a black and a red wire
daman
New member
23outlaw a qwick test idling her to 900 would tell ya if your servo is ok,then
you could at least go from there.....
you could at least go from there.....
did you have the kill switch on throttle "off"
Fourbarrels reply is right on, check and see if the light blinks 3 times when you start sled, and if it continues to blink it will be a code, the number of blinks spells out acode.
Fourbarrels reply is right on, check and see if the light blinks 3 times when you start sled, and if it continues to blink it will be a code, the number of blinks spells out acode.
23outlaw
New member
No I had the kill switch in the on or up position, would that make a difference?
mopar1rules
Active member
well the killswitch does need to be up (on position) and the key needs to be in the "ON" position as already stated.
23outlaw
New member
so when you're inputing the 12v signal, does it go directly to the servo or does it go to the computer?
Yamidude59
New member
just idle your sled below 900rpm to see if your servo is ok first!
That powervalve tester was a waste of money, if you just idle her down, and do your adjustments and check for pull throughs its all good then, only money you'd have to spend is if you have a valve pulled through...
That powervalve tester was a waste of money, if you just idle her down, and do your adjustments and check for pull throughs its all good then, only money you'd have to spend is if you have a valve pulled through...
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It supplies power to the CDI as well as a number of other components. Simply put it backfeeds the system. The CDI takes input from several sensors including the magneto itself which indicates engine rpm (zero in this case). If all the sensors indicate what they should in this scenario, the CDI should send voltage to the Servo motor to open the valves all the way.
Good advice above: Turn the idle speed screw (make sure you have the right one) out until rpms drop to 900. If your servo did not move, then you have trouble somewhere in the system.
Good advice above: Turn the idle speed screw (make sure you have the right one) out until rpms drop to 900. If your servo did not move, then you have trouble somewhere in the system.
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23outlaw
New member
I will try idling it down to 900 rpm when I get it back together. I ran into a problem when taking one of the manifolds off, broke a stud. Im gonna try and do that tonight.
troyhatt
New member
pv
your idle screw may not take her down to 900 rpms. put the choke on a bit and it will . if your servo opens mark her with a sharpie. this is your mark for future adjustments
your idle screw may not take her down to 900 rpms. put the choke on a bit and it will . if your servo opens mark her with a sharpie. this is your mark for future adjustments