TITANSS
New member
Hey to all- Ok, now iv'e got a good one. Sled is a 2000 SRX 700, carbs off so will not be able to run it to low idle to see servo change position. Figured i would make up a harness to do the electrical method of setting servo through test plug. Found link to make a decent one w/fuse and all. Was going to use that until i find, one black wire and only one red wire. Well tried it anyway, nothing happens. I can clearly see that there is a solid foam plug in the test plug on sled, no indication of a wire missing, no wire (3rd) up in wire shield. There is no terminal in the sled side of the servo test plug. Is there another plug that looks simular? This one is right next to servo motor, is white and is trianglular shaped with a protective plug cap. I know servo motor works as i just cleaned valves, and there is signs of use on power valves. Are there some applications where there is only one red wire? Is there an alternative method to electrically set the correct servo position? I can wait to run sled, but that will be several days from now, and will loose my indoor work area. Thanks to all, al Also thanks to all who responded to my earlier post on jetting!
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Viper-Rules!
New member
Power-Valve Adjustment!
Forget the electronic way. If you make a mistake you will fry your electricial system.
The easiest way to do it properly is
Put all of your valves back in and cables running properly to servo motor. make sure the valves housings are all tight. Take out the 2 screws on the front of the power valve housing, right where the cable goes in. Carefully loosen them, don't take them out all of the way. It will start to move out from the power valve housing. Set the distance using the thickness of the align key. I just usually turn the servo motor until the align key is snug. Once if you have the distance, put a mark on the servo and on the housing. This way if the servo moves while you are adjusting the next valve you don't have to start all over again. Do the same thing to valves two and three, except turn the screws on the power valve cable at the servo end to set distances, don't turn the servo anymore.
Hope this helps
Forget the electronic way. If you make a mistake you will fry your electricial system.
The easiest way to do it properly is
Put all of your valves back in and cables running properly to servo motor. make sure the valves housings are all tight. Take out the 2 screws on the front of the power valve housing, right where the cable goes in. Carefully loosen them, don't take them out all of the way. It will start to move out from the power valve housing. Set the distance using the thickness of the align key. I just usually turn the servo motor until the align key is snug. Once if you have the distance, put a mark on the servo and on the housing. This way if the servo moves while you are adjusting the next valve you don't have to start all over again. Do the same thing to valves two and three, except turn the screws on the power valve cable at the servo end to set distances, don't turn the servo anymore.
Hope this helps
daman
New member
Bingo thats the one you use,remove the plug, there's two hots and one ground,use a open end wire term. to fasten to the two reds.TITANSS said:
TITANSS
New member
red wire(s)
Only have 1 red wire, and 1 black. Sled is a 2000 SRX 700. How about as Viper-rules said, just turn servo with pliers, mark it and go. Just wonder about over-turning it past where it would stop when powered on. Did just turn it till snug, undid servo screws and tossed in two 2.8 mm nails, also felt up into cyl, tops of valves are even with cyl wall. Sound good to anybody? thanks to all, al
Only have 1 red wire, and 1 black. Sled is a 2000 SRX 700. How about as Viper-rules said, just turn servo with pliers, mark it and go. Just wonder about over-turning it past where it would stop when powered on. Did just turn it till snug, undid servo screws and tossed in two 2.8 mm nails, also felt up into cyl, tops of valves are even with cyl wall. Sound good to anybody? thanks to all, al
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daman
New member
in the trianglular shaped plug you only got 2 one of each???? hmmm,thats not right
TITANSS
New member
one of each- that's it
Felt up into wire harness-loom no indication of wire that is cut or pulled. Has solid plug of foam where 3rd wire would be. Will not open with harness hooked up. Tried first with key off then on, nothing.
Felt up into wire harness-loom no indication of wire that is cut or pulled. Has solid plug of foam where 3rd wire would be. Will not open with harness hooked up. Tried first with key off then on, nothing.
daman
New member
sence your harness is off limits......
Well hate to say but the only way to do it right is running and lower idle to
900,you need the have the servo set it's own positioning,you can't guess,or
get it close,doing it Viper-Rules way will only be close(sorry VR not bashing),so take it for what it's worth,you want it spot on this is the way...
Well hate to say but the only way to do it right is running and lower idle to
900,you need the have the servo set it's own positioning,you can't guess,or
get it close,doing it Viper-Rules way will only be close(sorry VR not bashing),so take it for what it's worth,you want it spot on this is the way...
TITANSS
New member
Wiil have it together today-
Will get it together later today, in heated garage (nice). Have to have it out tonite tho, some snow on coast here today so temps are not too warm. Will have to get going to do a for sure test/setting. Someone pm'd me and said they thought that some of the SRX models had only the two wires. Still nothing happens with harness. Will get it going and see what happens. thanks to all, Al
Will get it together later today, in heated garage (nice). Have to have it out tonite tho, some snow on coast here today so temps are not too warm. Will have to get going to do a for sure test/setting. Someone pm'd me and said they thought that some of the SRX models had only the two wires. Still nothing happens with harness. Will get it going and see what happens. thanks to all, Al
daman
New member
Ya know i just went and dug my SRX manual out and that may be true on '00 model's(or some) there may only be a two wire servo plug,my '01 has the 3 wire.
so you may have a problem with your CDI or servo,have any lights on flashing before?, anyway idling it down should work....
you had the key and kill swithes on right??????????
so you may have a problem with your CDI or servo,have any lights on flashing before?, anyway idling it down should work....
you had the key and kill swithes on right??????????
motodave289
Member
My 2000 only has two wires, 1 red 1 black. The red one is the power and the black is ground. Still has 3 wire triangle connector but one hole has nothing in it.
daman
New member
thanks for your info Dave.....motodave289 said:
mopar1rules
Active member
titanss, did you get it all squared away?
TITANSS
New member
Still working on it-
Hey Thanks to all who have shown interest and replied! This site is fantastic! Thanks moto for the reassurance on that 2 wire deal, mopar1 has indicated the same to be true. Have put pipes back on, painted and polished- looks great, was worth the 1 hr to do that. Turned servo by hand as viper-r had said, #1+2 valves were close to 2 (calibrated)(HAHA) finish nails that are 2.76mm x-cept #3 needed to be adjusted a bit. Will get it running in next few days to do the low idle shut-down. Will double check it again, but you know, everybody has their own way, that is what makes this a great forum/learning tool. If i can learn something (which i do) every time i get on here, then it's great, just gotta figure on the route to go. Thanks to all, ride safe- al
Hey Thanks to all who have shown interest and replied! This site is fantastic! Thanks moto for the reassurance on that 2 wire deal, mopar1 has indicated the same to be true. Have put pipes back on, painted and polished- looks great, was worth the 1 hr to do that. Turned servo by hand as viper-r had said, #1+2 valves were close to 2 (calibrated)(HAHA) finish nails that are 2.76mm x-cept #3 needed to be adjusted a bit. Will get it running in next few days to do the low idle shut-down. Will double check it again, but you know, everybody has their own way, that is what makes this a great forum/learning tool. If i can learn something (which i do) every time i get on here, then it's great, just gotta figure on the route to go. Thanks to all, ride safe- al
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mopar1rules
Active member
titanss, couldn't you get your electronic homemade tester to work?
TITANSS
New member
2 Wires haha- No deal on the tester-----
Tester just wouldn't do it! Made such a nice one too, looked at some of the pics here and made it up before figured out 2 wires haha... Did such a nice job on it to, work at a heater manufacturing company. Had all fuses, wires and really nice terminal ends. Oh well, something to put in the wire scrap bin, minus the fuse tho. Shame had to spend 15 mins on that when i could have had lunch or taken a break, been at this sled for 3 days solid now. BUT it is all back together right now (yes). Will head for home now shortly, just finished putting new lites on trailer, will sweep up, double check all doors and head home for a cool one. Will bring it back to heated shop next wknd to prime carbs get it started, and do a check on servo. Turned servo by hand and adjusted today, will see if when i get it running and kill it, if the marks i put in servo line-up, if so i am good to go.. Took out all old pre-mix oil from tank, left from previous owner, said it was Yamalube, but i will get something else. Any good thoughts on oil mopar?, many different oils and many opinions from all members makes it tough to decide. Just need to check my track tension next, rebuilt skid a bit ago, and need to do that. Give it all the once/twice over and enjoy the ride. Thanks to all, and ride safe, al
Tester just wouldn't do it! Made such a nice one too, looked at some of the pics here and made it up before figured out 2 wires haha... Did such a nice job on it to, work at a heater manufacturing company. Had all fuses, wires and really nice terminal ends. Oh well, something to put in the wire scrap bin, minus the fuse tho. Shame had to spend 15 mins on that when i could have had lunch or taken a break, been at this sled for 3 days solid now. BUT it is all back together right now (yes). Will head for home now shortly, just finished putting new lites on trailer, will sweep up, double check all doors and head home for a cool one. Will bring it back to heated shop next wknd to prime carbs get it started, and do a check on servo. Turned servo by hand and adjusted today, will see if when i get it running and kill it, if the marks i put in servo line-up, if so i am good to go.. Took out all old pre-mix oil from tank, left from previous owner, said it was Yamalube, but i will get something else. Any good thoughts on oil mopar?, many different oils and many opinions from all members makes it tough to decide. Just need to check my track tension next, rebuilt skid a bit ago, and need to do that. Give it all the once/twice over and enjoy the ride. Thanks to all, and ride safe, al
mopar1rules
Active member
i personally like amsoil intercepter and amsoil dominator.
Yamidude59
New member
your best off with the interceptor... thought the dominator was race oil????
mopar1rules
Active member
amsoil dominator is aimed at race applications, but is fine in oil injected sleds. some/most say its overkill on a trail machine, but you would be fine w/either oil. dominator smells better than interceptor too.
daman
New member
My take on it is......
Interceptor has more detergents(sodium, calcium ,magnesium phenolates,etc) and corrosion/rust Inhibiters(zinc dithiophosphates, metal phenolates,etc),and should be used in valved machines for cleanliness of the PVs and for summer storage..thats why one should use it over Dom. in trail sleds..
Interceptor has more detergents(sodium, calcium ,magnesium phenolates,etc) and corrosion/rust Inhibiters(zinc dithiophosphates, metal phenolates,etc),and should be used in valved machines for cleanliness of the PVs and for summer storage..thats why one should use it over Dom. in trail sleds..
mopar1rules
Active member
dominator is fine for power valved machines too. says so on the back of the bottle.