maxpower250r
New member
I have a 98 srx700 I bought last year with 700 miles on it for 1000 bucks...you can't hardly give away a short-track tripple in Colorado. But I like good deals and love horsepower. Had fun with it last winter but it really is useless in the rocky mountains. So a mountain max would be a better fit for me, but I'm a cheapskate and they're holding their value pretty well here. I love the SRX's power and reliability, and I love building oddball projects, so why not have a MM on steriods? I've researched the heck out of the subject here, and had a chat with Tom Hartman today-nice guy. SO my problem is I've got so much Honda crf450x, XR650r, trx250r, cj jeep, and srx engine info in my head and notebooks that I don't have the time, or willpower to research, learn, buy wrong parts or stuff that doesn't fit, for a snowmobile skid. Esentially I want to cheat on this one, and have some friendly Yamaha sled man just tell me what exactly works. I'm thinking 144 with 2 inch paddles is what I'm shooting for, a sled that will behave on the trail and in the fluff. The Hartman route would be the easiest, but as you know the noaction skid sucks. What donor skid would be the best/easiest to swap? I asked Tom the same question and he said anything would be better than what I have, and that you can make just about any skid fit. As stated previously I'm into alot of hobbies and am fairly new to snowmobiles. Don't get me wrong, I'm a farmer who turns snapon wrenches all year long, so I'm capable and willing to tear into, and screw up just about anything. But I've sat and stared at a snowmobile skid, squished it up and down, racked my brain...and I honestly can't tell you how or why it works. I generally don't like tearing into projects I don't really understand and don't want to sink a bunch of money into bad/uninformed choices. I've read mcat skids bolt right up to a viper; and maybe a SRX, I've read about guys with skidoo skids in their SRX's. Tom said its easy, just measure this, this, and that from the donor sled and slap it in. Unfortunatly, its kinda hard to get these measurments when I'm looking at take off skids here, and on ebay. In summary...what skid should I look for that WILL work, and doesn't required a degree in chinese geometry to get installed right. Yes, I know I'll have to change to 8 tooth drivers, and probably mess with gearing and clutching...it sounded like Hartman could really help out there. Am I just over thinking this and it actually is simple, just buy a skid and use common sense and put it in? Sorry for the novel and thanks guys. Am I the only one who's wife gets pi**ed when I settle in for a 4 hour TY marathon!?
Thanks
Steve
Thanks
Steve
A 144 makes for a nice balanced machine. If you ride the mtns of CO I'd go longer myself. Buddy of mine set one up with a 159 and a cat skid. Made for a nice combo.
srxhair
New member
i am stretching an 01 srx to 151 x 2.25 x16 i got an 07 summit skid and track,tunnel extention i will make from crashed apex tunnel,its the same width
A K MtnViper
New member
Trust Tom
I would go with a 144 or 151 kit from hartman.
If I had to do it all over again, I would do a 151. You gonna have to get some long travel shocks for the front and rear, some longer limiting straps, and some viper transfer rods will do just fine. Get some 8 tooth drivers and go with a 2 or 2.25 lug track. I would buy 8 tooth extrovert drivers so make sure you get a track that is fully clipped.
Your going to have to re-jet it for higher altitude.
If I had to do it all over again, I would do a 151. You gonna have to get some long travel shocks for the front and rear, some longer limiting straps, and some viper transfer rods will do just fine. Get some 8 tooth drivers and go with a 2 or 2.25 lug track. I would buy 8 tooth extrovert drivers so make sure you get a track that is fully clipped.
Your going to have to re-jet it for higher altitude.
cacsrx1
New member
Find a dumpster and throw you proaction into it. Tom sells the kits to stretch the proaction, but recommends ANYBODY elses skid. The sheer weight you will lose going to a different skid is worth it, not to mention the ride, transfer ...etc. I did the same project you are working on(151"). Hardest part is getting black paint to stick to the green idler wheels.
maxpower250r
New member
Great comments guys...keep them coming. So there is a "brand new" 153 take off skid from an m7 on ebay for 425. Would that work? Whats a 153...I thought tracks went from 144 to 151. Cacsrx, what exact model did your skid come out of?
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There's a 153 xtx skid and track on snowest for cheap. You'd have to go to 3" pitch drivers to make that work.
cacsrx1
New member
141" M7 skid set back to fit a 151" track. Couple of guys on here helped me with the measurements. I gave $300 for the take off skid, bought a tunnel extension from Tom. Antiratchet drivers are a must, you can run the track sloppy loose with no problems.maxpower250r said:Great comments guys...keep them coming. So there is a "brand new" 153 take off skid from an m7 on ebay for 425. Would that work? Whats a 153...I thought tracks went from 144 to 151. Cacsrx, what exact model did your skid come out of?
Definately do the anti ratchets if you have it apart. Sloppy loose is putting it nicely

yam_apex91469
New member
M10 136" stretched to 151" - hartman tunnel & tracks USA rail ext. Nice setup but i spent way too much for new skid - you can get many types of new takeoff skids or even used on snowest for decent price. If you extend don't waste time or money on rear heat exchanger mod - replace it with Hartman's crossover tube or make your own. Mine's been on for 2 years never had any problems even in warmer weather, low snow conditions
Also, if you want decent performance in the pow, change your skis
Also, if you want decent performance in the pow, change your skis
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maxpower250r
New member
cacsrx1 said:141" M7 skid set back to fit a 151" track. Couple of guys on here helped me with the measurements. I gave $300 for the take off skid, bought a tunnel extension from Tom. Antiratchet drivers are a must, you can run the track sloppy loose with no problems.
Thanks cacs...I answered my own question, while you made this post I was busy researching all of your posts and found this info, you did exactly what I'm wanting to do so I might be bugging you for a bit. So does the 141 have to be set back and run a 151 or is there mounting room to run it far enough forward to run a 144. Don't know why I want a 144 so bad, I guess anything longer seems like pure mountain, I want to still be able to dish out some spankin's in a straight line. Same question for the 153 skid on ebay, could it be used in my srx at 153 or would it need set back for clearance?
cacsrx1
New member
maxpower250r said:Thanks cacs...I answered my own question, while you made this post I was busy researching all of your posts and found this info, you did exactly what I'm wanting to do so I might be bugging you for a bit. So does the 141 have to be set back and run a 151 or is there mounting room to run it far enough forward to run a 144. Don't know why I want a 144 so bad, I guess anything longer seems like pure mountain, I want to still be able to dish out some spankin's in a straight line. Same question for the 153 skid on ebay, could it be used in my srx at 153 or would it need set back for clearance?
The setback gives it a supershallow approach angle to get up on top of the snow, which is good for the heavy pig. I set mine back 5 inches from M7 mounting locations or half the length of the longer track. I also used the SRX rear heat exchanger, it fits nicely with a little dremmel work, you already have it, and its cheap insurance.
Essarex
New member
I am going to break tradition here and suggest that you keep the proaction, and add rail extentions. I swapped out my proaction for an Expert X, only because I broke the w-arm and didn't want to fuss with remanufacturing it, or any of the chromemoly aftermarket stuff. My proaction transfered weight very very well, and especially in deep snow. It would leap out of the fluff and run away from all the other short tracks in our group. The trick is to let out the straps all the way and put a ton of preload in the front shock. You will be riding in deep snow, at relatively slow speeds (compared to pure trail riding) and therefore you will not be concerned with hyfax wear at the rail bend, or w-arm breakage due to big whoops/trail junk. A 144" with a good set of skis and the 140 hp powerplant will make a hellava crossover sled.
cacsrx1
New member
Long limiter straps and stiff front shock preload = deep trench in power.
Essarex
New member
not with the proaction and the srx short travel shocks. for a 121, it would jump on top of the powder better than any short track rev, edge, genII.
I started out with a 121 stretched to 144 pro action skid. It worked ok, but wasn't the answer in deep snow. Here in MN I was good to go, out in the mountains I got where I was going sometimes. Switched it to a 136 polaris/Holz skid and it is way better all around. Rides better, Transfers in a more usable manner, Eats real snow like its a deep snow sled. Couldn't be happier.
cacsrx1
New member
When mine was a 121, I had It set up with Bender TS3 transfer rods and an 1-1/2" snowcross track. I always ran with the limiters pulled up. Sled stayed on top of the snow better and handled better all around. Way easier on hyfaxes too. My idea of powder is waist deep, which also makes a difference. If there is some base the limiter settings are less important.Essarex said:not with the proaction and the srx short travel shocks. for a 121, it would jump on top of the powder better than any short track rev, edge, genII.
Essarex
New member
So Ryan B, why did you go BACKWARDS (from 144 to 136)? was it huge dissatisfaction for the proact, or big promises on the Holz? That took guts, glad it worked out for you.
Still running the 144 track. Did the 136 to get the set back/track angle I was looking for. As for the stock skid - it simply does not compare to what I'm running now.