My handwarmers still work but they are not like they use to be. (super hot) now they are just warm and on real cold days do not keep up with the cold. What should I look for? Is the somewhere I can get a reading to see what Im getting? Thanks
You should probably check the Variable resistor for an even sweep from low to high. From your description, I'd guess it will flatline near the middle of rotation and not go any higher/lower.
chilli
New member
naw, my guess is that the end of the hot grip is likely pulled over the edge of the bar a bit? If so, same prob I had where the end of the bar CUTS the heat element inside.
I swapped for a brand new set of HOT GRIPS, and my hands BURN now.
My problem was my thumb would sizzle, and hands would freeze. Now, bith hand a thumb are at same temp, whereas before big difference
Check the ned of yer grip and see if its stretched at all, I bet it is
I swapped for a brand new set of HOT GRIPS, and my hands BURN now.
My problem was my thumb would sizzle, and hands would freeze. Now, bith hand a thumb are at same temp, whereas before big difference
Check the ned of yer grip and see if its stretched at all, I bet it is
mopar1rules
Active member
mine are like that too. even my thumb warmer seems to really be puked out now. i put in different hand/thumb dials and still no better. i'll check into my warmers themselves.
make sure the wiring is not broke or almost broke where the steering turn ..remove the pad on steering and look under the steering it broke often there because of the steering movement left to right...hard to bring power with a wired haft broke
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chilli
New member
check those grip ends fellas.....mine were stretched real bad and pulled downwards....before I canged any wiring, swapped those out and now they are steaming hot
I could sled with no gloves.....lol
I could sled with no gloves.....lol
Im thinking crewchief might be on to something because it seems sometimes I will turn down the dial and it will get hotter then when it is on full. Where would I check the switch to see if it is working properly?
Multi-meter and there is a two wire plug about 6" from the dial if I remember right.
mopar1rules
Active member
same here.....sometimes warmers are hotter at 1/2 vs full or 3/4. i tried different switches (used) and still same thing.
take a look mopar at the wiring on steering post
Hey modsrx, I just took a quick look at the wiring under the bars and I saw some black tape looked like it was rubbed through. This weekend I will have to look into the wires under the pad. Is there a better way to route the wires?
mopar1rules
Active member
modsrx said:
i just got done looking.....no rub thrus......maybe its the used warmer dials?
they don;t rubb mopar they cut because they bend went u turn steering left and and right ...same in car went u open the door often they cut in the opening of the door .. u have a loop under steering ..its just something to look ive seen 6 or 7 broke there so.....
mopar1rules
Active member
there are no visible cracks or complete breaks in the wires. i am going to check the dials for the warmers right now. i will double check and triple check the wires again too.
do u want me to take picture where u need to check for the broke one u will see a loop at the top of the steering post
mopar1rules
Active member
if you want.
i checked the dial warmers w/multi-meter. i had meter set to ohms to check for continuity and resistance and there is no dead spots in the warmer dials. has resistance everywhere. also, checked the hand and thumb warmer themselves and get a resistance reading, so there should be no break in the wiring. i'm going to start triple checking this stuff again....lol. don't want cold hands this year.
i checked the dial warmers w/multi-meter. i had meter set to ohms to check for continuity and resistance and there is no dead spots in the warmer dials. has resistance everywhere. also, checked the hand and thumb warmer themselves and get a resistance reading, so there should be no break in the wiring. i'm going to start triple checking this stuff again....lol. don't want cold hands this year.
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You have to watch the ohms to make sure they don't flat spot at some point in the middle. It should be a nice steady climb/fall(depending on direction) from end to end. Just making sure this is clear for everyone.
mopar1rules
Active member
yep, the ohms incremented up on every click.....it didn't stay the same from click to click at any time.
chilli
New member
Its the elements inside the grip...if all the electrical is ruled out.
Mine stared that way, then one stopped working all together...I checked my resostat too, and wiring...all checked out.
Im sure it was someone on this site that told me to check the grips themselves, and thats what it was. Especially if they are stock
If you buy a new set, you can test them quickly by tapping in a splice down near the grip itself, and then connecting the grip(s) just maretted, no solder...obviously if it heats up nice, and responds to changes in the reostat, you know you need to change em.
If not, they'll still look nice, cut off the small section of wire you tapped into, and return them for a refund...no harm no foul and you'll know one way or another
Mine stared that way, then one stopped working all together...I checked my resostat too, and wiring...all checked out.
Im sure it was someone on this site that told me to check the grips themselves, and thats what it was. Especially if they are stock
If you buy a new set, you can test them quickly by tapping in a splice down near the grip itself, and then connecting the grip(s) just maretted, no solder...obviously if it heats up nice, and responds to changes in the reostat, you know you need to change em.
If not, they'll still look nice, cut off the small section of wire you tapped into, and return them for a refund...no harm no foul and you'll know one way or another
mopar1rules
Active member
i did a bunch of checks w/my buddy and it turns out the cdi box is coming up bad. the warmers signal, actually goes thru the cdi box. we disconnected the handwarmers and plugged the multi-meter in between. then we fired up the sled and turned the warmer dials up and down, and seen no change in amps on the meter. checked all the wiring and no break thrus. continuity between everything. when i take my sled out, 2 laps around the field and the warmers get hot (have warmer dial maxxed out). after 2 laps, the warmers start to cool down and then they stay cool. i'm thinking that while the cdi box is cool, it sends the proper signals to the warmers, but as it heats up, the circuit must open up or something and then it gets stuck on low. i have 2 used cdi boxes coming for me to try out, so we will see if they fix the problem.