An option for tunnel protector installation

O

OnDaTrail

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Nov 21, 2007
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Orange County, NY
We studded my sons 2001 Phazer yesterday. I added tunnel protectors but didn't want to go through the extra work of removing the track. I put a piece of masking tape the length of the protector and marked a center line the whole length with a sharpie. Then I took another 2" masking tape and laid it on top of the tunnel over all of the factory rivet holes (seat and gas tank removed of course). I poked the tape out for each hole and then took that 2" tape up and laid it on the protector as a pattern for hole locations. The tape was placed with my center line running through the middle of each hole in the tape. Then I marked my locations, and drilled and tapped the tunnel protector for 10-32 screws, removed all tape, and was able to install it using pan head 10-32 screws without removing the track.
 
I have pretty much always used pop rivets to hold tunnel protectors on. 1 sled that I did not was a doo, but it had channels in the HX that you simply crimped to hold the tunnel protectors on.
I suppose you could drill and tap each one, but I would be a little worried that the machine screws would back out.
 
I'll keep an eye on them to see if the screws loosen but they didn't go in easily and they did tighten right up so I don't anticipate them coming loose. I can always go back to rivets if it's a problem.
 
OnDaTrail said:
I'll keep an eye on them to see if the screws loosen but they didn't go in easily and they did tighten right up so I don't anticipate them coming loose. I can always go back to rivets if it's a problem.
Click to expand...

Loctite them ... No worries
 
I wasnt sure how effective loctite would be in the plastic tunnel protector but then I figured that the tunnel protector is actually the same material used in locknuts so it should bind pretty well to the threads especially since its the full length of the screw.
 
OnDaTrail said:
I wasnt sure how effective loctite would be in the plastic tunnel protector but then I figured that the tunnel protector is actually the same material used in locknuts so it should bind pretty well to the threads especially since its the full length of the screw.
Click to expand...

Loctite does make an ALL PLASTICS bonder that is supposed to work plastic to metal, but if you used regular loctite thread locker, I would not trust it to work, as it designed for metal to metal. Lock nuts with the plastic insert rely on the plastic to do the locking. Keep an eye on the bolts you installed.

D
 
My point was that since locknuts rely on plastic to do the locking, that's just what the tunnel protector is made of. I did not use any loctite. Time will tell, but I don't think that anything is going to loosen up. If it does, I can still switch over to pop rivets with washers.
 
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