studs on 1.25 srx

dave carpenter

dave carpenter

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Nov 20, 2005
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Timmins Ont
so whos all runnung 1.25 with studs and any problems ,im thinking about it ,but i dont have front heat exchanger gaurds ,now do i need them to runs studs or not ,oh its a 1.25 ripsaw

thanks dave :o|
 
I have studs on my ripsaw. Dont remember how long they are but they clear the lug by about a 1/4".
Yes, you need heat exchanger protectors! Its the only thing that stops the studs from ripping the crap out of your exhanger.
I had to notch my track lugs (between each window)so they would clear the protectors, only took off about a 1/4".
 
I have a 1.25 ripsaw on mine execpt i did not notch the lugs, I just let it wear. I smelled rubber for the first couple of blasts, that was it. I'm running studs also.
 
dave carpenter said:
so do your studs rub at all and does it matter what pattern,and notch every lug in window lines right

dave
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I have a couple of small ticks in the heat exchanger, but nothing serious. Just the tall luggs.My ripsaw doesnt have a full lugg every third, but you dont want to clip the tall one that low
Or you do as Bender, and let it wear in.
 
cool i think ill try 96 1.325 lenth studs ,so i guess im putting heat exchangers gaurds back it so pulling track out ,that sucks and notch tall lugs


thanks dave
 
Be careful of the 1.325 stud. We ran a 1.175 on a rip saw and still had close to a .25 of stud past the track. And yes, it was a 1.25 Rip Saw. If you go the 1.325 route you have to run the track very tight.
 
Maddogs700srx said:
Be careful of the 1.325 stud. We ran a 1.175 on a rip saw and still had close to a .25 of stud past the track. And yes, it was a 1.25 Rip Saw. If you go the 1.325 route you have to run the track very tight.
Click to expand...
I think mine were 1.175's also! My understanding is that different manufactures measure the studs a little differently.
Best thing to do, is to get a couple of studs of different sizes and actually install each to see what penetration you end up with.


Also, If you dont want to remove the track to install your protectors. I riveted the bottoms and installed self taper screws using an extension and hex-bit to do the tops. Use loc-tite and inspect them regurally!
Good luck
 
correct me if im wrong here the 1.175's are .150 thow shorter the the 1.325's and on a 1 1/4 ripsaw you will only have about .50 to.70'' of stud sticking past your lugs. You should have .250 to .350 sticking past your lugs to make the studding worth while other wise why bother studding. Your tracktion gain would next to nothing not worth the extra weight you just added to the track . just me 2 cents
 
Brad said:
correct me if im wrong here the 1.175's are .150 thow shorter the the 1.325's and on a 1 1/4 ripsaw you will only have about .50 to.70'' of stud sticking past your lugs. You should have .250 to .350 sticking past your lugs to make the studding worth while other wise why bother studding. Your tracktion gain would next to nothing not worth the extra weight you just added to the track . just me 2 cents
Click to expand...
.50 is a 1/2", so techincaly your statement is wrong.
1.175 is less the 1.25(1 1/4" lug), so it shouldnt stick past the lug at all.
Again, it comes down to how the manufacture measures their studs.
http://www.wiem.com/PDFs/Uploads/TechTips/G1-06-0001.pdf
http://www.studboytraction.com/studding_process.htm

Look at Woodys 1.175
It says it clears a 1.1" lug by almost 3/8" yet its only about 1/16" longer then the lug.
Again , there are alot of variables. Track thickness is another.
 
Sorry ment to say .050-.070 any way 1.175 are way to short
 
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Brad said:
Sorry ment to say .050-.070 any way 1.175 are way to short
Click to expand...
So what would you run in a Yamaha with a 1 1/4" track with stock protectors? Please include stud brand and how you came up with the length.
 
would run 1.375 stud boys with tall nuts and modify the front protectors or go to 8 tooth drives and gear it. id op to modifing the protectors

point is if you want run the 1 1/4 track and stud it do it right or just stay with a 1'' track.
 
Brad said:
would run 1.375 stud boys with tall nuts and modify the front protectors or go to 8 tooth drives and gear it. id op to modifing the protectors

point is if you want run the 1 1/4 track and stud it do it right or just stay with a 1'' track.
Click to expand...
Now thats the post you should have posted the first time. If your going to give advice, you should give all the details. If Dave would have just thrown in the 1.375 studs without the extra mods(that you mention now), he could have potentially shredded his heat exchanger.
Im also saying that my 1.175's clear my lug by a 1/4"(3/8" would be nice,but...), and they have nicked my exchangers.I dont think Dave is looking for drag racing penetration, just extra hook up, so 1/4" is plenty and reasonably safe.
Again, just my opinion. I respect you for having your own.
 
Sno-Xr said:
Now thats the post you should have posted the first time. If your going to give advice, you should give all the details. If Dave would have just thrown in the 1.375 studs without the extra mods(that you mention now), he could have potentially shredded his heat exchanger.
Im also saying that my 1.175's clear my lug by a 1/4"(3/8" would be nice,but...), and they have nicked my exchangers.I dont think Dave is looking for drag racing penetration, just extra hook up, so 1/4" is plenty and reasonably safe.
Again, just my opinion. I respect you for having your own.
Click to expand...

Agreed. Those posts are way to confusing. I also would go with the 1.175's. 1/4" is plenty to serve the purpose. .5" is WAY to risky.
 
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