Ix Josh9056 xI
New member
sx 700 with c&a pro skis darting really bad.
i also have alot of nose diving in it when i get off the throttle.
fyi i have long travel skid from a 97 600 in it both front and back.
i also have alot of nose diving in it when i get off the throttle.
fyi i have long travel skid from a 97 600 in it both front and back.
what position is your front limiter strap set at? sounds like too much ski pressure
tedgoesfast
New member
i agree to much ski pressure.Lift the sled up on a flat floor see if track sits down level when picked up and just before the track hits floor make sure track touchs down same the whole length off track
Ix Josh9056 xI
New member
ok thank you i will do that today
You might check the forward bias of your skis as well. I agree with others that you are high in the middle (like OHIO). But the problem may be compounded by ski bias.
Good info from a while ago in the Tech Section.
Good info from a while ago in the Tech Section.
this is what i think you have going on.
1. long traveled short traveled sleds suffer from too little caster and this presses down on the front of the ski more than if you had these skis on a stock long traveld sled. you cant change the caster without cutting and welding or replacing your arms but you can adjust the ski rubber, changing pressure on the carbide.
2 if you used that skid the center shock sucks on it. it has way too little preasure to give you any traction or absorb fast large bumps. if you still have the shocks you took off the front of your sled(not ohlins) one of these will work far better, you will need to pry the flanges apart a little to get them in but they work great and are the right length and travel.
3. if you used the front gas bag style shocks, they dont have much compression dampening and squat easily when you let off the gas or hit the brakes. they were made for a sled that is not riden agressively. try to pick up a set of viper/sxr front shocks, they will be dampend stiffer and will have multirate springs on them that let the sled sit a little lower and let it handle better in a corner.
read the articles below on how to set the sled up in general.
if you go over to the 4 stroke side, search darting, there is an article there that shows how to make a cheap curved plate you can bolt under the ski that will eliminate even more darting for cheap without buying new carbides.
if your buying carbides anyway and want to get rid of the rest of the darting (what little will be left) get some studboy duece bars.
fyi, your track setting flat when you lift the back just means you dont have use of all the suspension, has nothing to do with how it will handle.
if you have any questions about what is in the articles, post them in each and ill answer them there, this way everyone can benifit who reads it later as i add to it some and adjust it here and there when i find new/better ways or find that there are some questions that it doesnt answer.
thanks
scott
1. long traveled short traveled sleds suffer from too little caster and this presses down on the front of the ski more than if you had these skis on a stock long traveld sled. you cant change the caster without cutting and welding or replacing your arms but you can adjust the ski rubber, changing pressure on the carbide.
2 if you used that skid the center shock sucks on it. it has way too little preasure to give you any traction or absorb fast large bumps. if you still have the shocks you took off the front of your sled(not ohlins) one of these will work far better, you will need to pry the flanges apart a little to get them in but they work great and are the right length and travel.
3. if you used the front gas bag style shocks, they dont have much compression dampening and squat easily when you let off the gas or hit the brakes. they were made for a sled that is not riden agressively. try to pick up a set of viper/sxr front shocks, they will be dampend stiffer and will have multirate springs on them that let the sled sit a little lower and let it handle better in a corner.
read the articles below on how to set the sled up in general.
if you go over to the 4 stroke side, search darting, there is an article there that shows how to make a cheap curved plate you can bolt under the ski that will eliminate even more darting for cheap without buying new carbides.
if your buying carbides anyway and want to get rid of the rest of the darting (what little will be left) get some studboy duece bars.
fyi, your track setting flat when you lift the back just means you dont have use of all the suspension, has nothing to do with how it will handle.
if you have any questions about what is in the articles, post them in each and ill answer them there, this way everyone can benifit who reads it later as i add to it some and adjust it here and there when i find new/better ways or find that there are some questions that it doesnt answer.
thanks
scott
Last edited:
Ix Josh9056 xI
New member
thanks i have the whole front end of that sled i got the skid and shocks from the sled had a blown motor. i also forgot to add that the sled dosent hook up good at all and i guess that is part to the junk center shock right??
Ix Josh9056 xI said:
yes, wont hook up, there is very little front track pressure.
even with the correct trailing arms, i bet if you check the carbides on the skis, the fronts are wore out more than the rear. a sled with correct carbide pressure will show equal or more wear in the rear.
was this a xtc or xt. xtc sleds had rebuildable shocks and you can send them to pionier and have them revalved, add the spring to the center and it will be very good.
xt sleds have non rebuildable shocks(black steel bodies) nothing you can do with valving to improve.
xt sleds have non rebuildable shocks(black steel bodies) nothing you can do with valving to improve.
Ix Josh9056 xI
New member
xtc i dont really want to put n e money into the sled because i am lookin at a 2002 viper i just want to improve it for a little until i get a new sled.