chain case oil

djdarkmunk

djdarkmunk

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ok so i don't wanna sound like a complete idiot but how do i change the chain case oil on my 2002 srx i red something about taking the pipes off in another post also where is the drain plug i just bought some amsoil chain case lube and wanna change it out since the sled is new to me and i don't know when the last time it was changed. thanks
 
Inside the tunnel directly under the drive axle, is a drain plub..takes a 10mm i believe... then it's best to remove cover of chain case and clean out all the junk and inspect. May need to remove silencer to make it easier. Reinstall cover and refil to proper level. Should only take you maybe 1/2 hour.
 
While you are in there i would inspect the bolt that holds the lower gear on.The head of mine broke off last week and destroyed the case,cover&chain.
 
yep to do it right pipes need to come off so you can pull the cover and wash the case gears/chain out,i use carb cleaner to rinse it down with..let dry then refill with a full synthetic oil of your choice..
 
From my experience, the guys are 100% correct.....do not just drain it and refill it. Drain the old oil out, open up the case and clean out all the accumulated metal debris on the bottom, along with the other hardware. If you an unsure of the sled's history, it would be worth taking the chain off and looking at its condition...look for worn/broken links. Clean everything up nice, reassemble and fillit with the synthetic lube. While you have the pipes out, look at the condition of the large dia. and small dia. exhaust seals (donuts), replace any badly worn large donuts, the small ones rarely wear out.
 
ok so i took apart the chain case and put new lube in now the sled wont run right i don't what the problem is but i made a vid im gonna upload it tonight and u guys can take a look
 
djdarkmunk said:
ok so i took apart the chain case and put new lube in now the sled wont run right i don't what the problem is but i made a vid im gonna upload it tonight and u guys can take a look
Click to expand...
Check the muffler bearing, its probably locked up! Just kidding
If you didnt take any thing else apart, besides exhaust and chain case, look for something that you may have disturbed while working on it. ie.. choke cable, wiring unplugged, power valve cable etc.


Cant wait for the video, we love videos!! LaLaLa
 
Sno-Xr said:
Check the muffler bearing, its probably locked up! Just kidding


Cant wait for the video, we love videos!! LaLaLa
Click to expand...



Also, check the powerband. I stretched mine! LMFAO.... I had to do it.




I also agree that it is good to inspect the chaincase and gears. I bought my 04, and when i started pulling the stock exhaust off to put triples on, i noticed that the chain adjuster was gone. It had rattled loose. I am running ATF in my chaincase, and it seems to be working pretty good. No unusual wear, and it seems to give a little less rolling friction in cold weather. :2strokes:
 
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It sounds like the Throttle Over-Ride System (TORS)is doing its job. Check the routing of the throttle cable. The Tors system has two small electrical switches which must be engaged in a specific sequence. When you depress the throttle, the switch inside the throttle block gets depressed by the thb lever, then as you squeeze further, the switch at the carbs gets activated. This happens automatically and is never noticed by the rider under normal conditions. Should the throttle/cable "stick" when you are riding, the carb switch would be activated but the throttle block switch would not be which lerst the CDI box to severely limit the engine speed. If the throttle cable is not adjusted properly or if the TORS electrical connections are not in place, yo will get the response that you are experiencing. Take a look around the carbs, you will see two wire bundles, one for the TORS swict and one for the TPS. Make sure both are plugged in correctly and are completely seated. Check the throttle cable to make sure there is a few millimeters of free play in it.
 
I also think it is the TORS. Check your throttle cable routing, making sure the cable has not pulled out from a connection point in the vacinity of the airbox.
 
looks like somone been wrenching on that sled w/non metric tools, you may want to replace that top sprocket nut or at least check the tourq w/a tourq wrench. also if that was done by a previous owner i would start looking at other fasteners too!
 
There's some throttle cable adjustment and TORS system testing info in my sig. You should rule that out first before we continue diagnosis. For testing purposes you can connect the two bullet connectors that part of the main harness together. We don't advocate running in bypass except for testing. The TORS 'should' be the pair of bullet connectors I circled in your pic, someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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Deffinitly sounds like TORS is kicking in. Check the throttle cable at all connection points to be sure it is seatted properly. Sounded like it was Idling kinda high as if the cable is pulled out a touch which will cause the TORS to activate. Be sure to check under this boot as well.
 

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TORS is a pain when not knowing how to diagnose(no offence to anyone) IMO it's a great safty feature that should be keep working, the system is a simple circuit with a switch down @ the carb rack and one in the throttle
block then the CDI, if both switches are working properly the system will work.


there's 3 point's of attack here:

1- Check throttle free play (2mm) adjustment for that is here

2-3 check both switches,make sure there clicking and returning right,the
one up @ the throttle block you'll need to remove the thumb lever pin
remove the thumb lever and look down in you'll see the switch,stick
a small screw driver in and make sure it's moving good in and out..the one down on the carb rack make sure throttle stop is hitting it solid and pressing the button down, then releasing when off(throttle open),if not
and you suspect its the switch find a nother used one and change it out.

also you can use a simple volt meter to check the switches,it's just a
simple switch that breaks the circuit or completes it..
 
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thanks guys im gona take a look tomorrow i have to work today but it sounds like a unanimous vote to look at the tors
 
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