yammiman
Member
........in an SRX? - I put one in last year and love everything about it except the increased front ski pressure - the limiter strap is all the way out, the revolver is set on the stock setting, and so are the shocks - the pressure is high enough it took out the front half of the wear bars and the back half look like new - thinking about softening the shocks, adjusting the revolver for a little more transfer, and possibly moving the front shocks to the higher height - anyone else have any suggestions? 

Set the revolver at 1 and 5. Crank your fronts way up. Long traveling with Viper fronts is a must. You should notice quite a difference. I was told this by Jeff at Boivin. The ZX2 adjustment range is more friendly for the newer sleds that have a much greater travel. You will not be able to get a real plushy ride ever on an SRX, but the ZX2 is a thousand light years better than stock. I love everything about my SRXZX2 and have absolutely no desire for a newer sled.
do you guys have any pics of that skid in your sled??
yammiman
Member
yammiman said:Zachalyse - when you say "crank your fronts way up" I'm assuming you are talking about the height? - I have a pair of long travel SRX shocks, are the Viper shocks even longer?
DV8 - here is picture of my sled
Looks great, What sled did you source it from?
yammiman
Member
...What sled did you source it from?...
Not sure what you are asking?
Not sure what you are asking?
I have seen them in srx. and in other manufactures sled also, Does it come stock in a production sled....what sled??
yammiman
Member
No, it is an aftermarket unit by Ad Boivin - Canadian company that makes the Expert X - it is made from composite - nice skid!
Viper-Rules!
New member
Try this!
I agree with what was said above. Also look at how your carbides are touching the garage floor. If the fronts are touching and the rears are off the ground, you need to shim your ski rubbers at the back to correct this. I used left over hyfax and played with the height. Once I had the right height, you want the rear of the carbide touching the floor and the front off the ground. Once you have this you can screw and glue them into place. Really corrects the carbide wear problem along with improving sled handling and elminating darting.
I agree with what was said above. Also look at how your carbides are touching the garage floor. If the fronts are touching and the rears are off the ground, you need to shim your ski rubbers at the back to correct this. I used left over hyfax and played with the height. Once I had the right height, you want the rear of the carbide touching the floor and the front off the ground. Once you have this you can screw and glue them into place. Really corrects the carbide wear problem along with improving sled handling and elminating darting.
Millinocket Rocket
New member
Viper Rules- not to hijack, but what did you go with for your revolver setting? I deleted your PM a while back. The rear of my skid was tipped up off the floor(back wheels) a little bit on 2-4 and it was riding on the front of the skid and not handling well, so I put mine on 2-5 and it flattened the skid out more. I also sucked the limiter strap up one notch and I think I might have it nailed down now. Haven't tried it yet on groomed trails yet. Front shock springs are in the middle. Also got some new Kimpex Arrow skis to try and shimmed those.
Viper-Rules!
New member
ZX2 Skid!
I just leave it on 2 and 5 and play with the spring pro-load settings. I have that set on 3, since I weigh about 180 Ibs and it rides nice in all conditions. I haven't replaced the ski's yet, but I'm happy with the handling after the shimming trick.
I just leave it on 2 and 5 and play with the spring pro-load settings. I have that set on 3, since I weigh about 180 Ibs and it rides nice in all conditions. I haven't replaced the ski's yet, but I'm happy with the handling after the shimming trick.
yammiman
Member
Viper-Rules - funny you mention the shimming because I was looking at doing that once I seen what was going on with the carbides - I have Simmons ski's so darting is not an issue - right now I'm having trouble finding some mounts for the Viper shocks - might just raise the position of the stock shocks and let a little off the springs - thanks
\\yammiman said:Viper-Rules - funny you mention the shimming because I was looking at doing that once I seen what was going on with the carbides - I have Simmons ski's so darting is not an issue - right now I'm having trouble finding some mounts for the Viper shocks - might just raise the position of the stock shocks and let a little off the springs - thanks
Contact Betheviper for the Viper shock mounts
yammiman
Member
....Contact Betheviper for the Viper shock mounts....
Been there, done that and he did not have any!!!
Been there, done that and he did not have any!!!
Sorry to hear that.
On another note:
How tight are you running your track? Tight, loose? I put a 1 1/4" ripsaw with 144 1.185 studs and just want to take extra caution to protect my exchanger. I've heard tight is better and actually works better with this skid. You?
On another note:
How tight are you running your track? Tight, loose? I put a 1 1/4" ripsaw with 144 1.185 studs and just want to take extra caution to protect my exchanger. I've heard tight is better and actually works better with this skid. You?
yammiman
Member
Mine is on the tight side but I set it inside a heated garage - the skid contracts when it gets cold and the track loosens up some - if you adjust it under cold conditions, you would want to set it to stock specs