drilling the track
- Thread starter 1993Vmax4
- Start date
SWEDE
New member
I assume you mean studs?They make a hole driller that cuts a nice clean hole and get a template for stud layout.There is lots of places to get this stuff, the simplest would be to just get everything from woody's brand for example and then you'd know everything would work well together.All major brands will also make recommendations for stud length and quantity.
My mistake, lost in translation......................what i meant waas how to 'port' my track, this is supposed to relive some of the snow pressure in the tunnel. l do not have much clearance in the tunnel of my Vmax4, so i need all the help i can get!
Cheers
Cheers
SWEDE
New member
I think I've saw adds for that in the back of some sled magazines that offer the service.
ModMMax
New member
Track porting
Used a poywood template to drill the 1/4 inch holes for the hole saw pilot drill. Sharpened the hole saw on the lathe but a grinding wheel works as well. Used a little WD-40 for lube on the hole saw. There is a lot of holes and it takes a long time. Biggest issue is the drill getting hot. Use a 1/2 drill if you have one. Good luck.
Used a poywood template to drill the 1/4 inch holes for the hole saw pilot drill. Sharpened the hole saw on the lathe but a grinding wheel works as well. Used a little WD-40 for lube on the hole saw. There is a lot of holes and it takes a long time. Biggest issue is the drill getting hot. Use a 1/2 drill if you have one. Good luck.
Attachments
ModMMax
New member
It worked good. You will need to use scratchers when you run on the hardpack but you should be using them anyway with a 2" track to prevent hyfax wear and engine heating. I'll be honest, in the powder it is really hard to tell any difference between a ported track and a non ported track, but it looks cool. BTW, I noticed no track stretch after porting. Do not cut the holes on the outside of the drivers. Seen some tracks fail when the 2 outside holes are drilled.