I've been trying to replace the track on my '02 Viper for a while now. I've received helpful info from a few of you in previous weeks; Spraying the bearing ahead of time is a must. The bearing on my drive axle WILL NOT come off. I got the set screws off, the chain case housing loose, as advised. I have been sprayong the bearing daily, and put an old bolt in the end of the axle, then used an air chissel. I got the bearing to move about a 1/4", but no further. Does anyone have any other ideas as to how to get the bearing off?
heat heat heat and then change that bearing
Did you remove/loosen the allen head set screw?
any chance of damaging anything other than the bearing with all that heat? I already ordered a new bearing, so that is the next course of action.
yes I removed both set screws.
The allen head set screw is on the collar on thhex part of the shaft next to one of the wheels. dosen't appear that it has to be removed.
Sorry I just reread your post, you might have to take the chain case right off. That should give you more room to take the axle out, and get a puller on it or get it to a press
if u remove all the chaincase u will be able to pull out that shaft out of there
I Think I still will have to replace the bearing on the other side opposite of the chaincase side. I think it might have some damage to it already.
It would be a good idea, you have it all apart
Thanks for the ideas! Any other thoughts are welcome.
chilli
New member
remove the chaincase itself for sure if you havent already...was there 2 or 3 set screws? Im trying to remember when I added my ripsaw...frig, might have been 3 ...check the bearing again just to be safe
Once the case is gone, you can push the shaft out more, and get a puller on there...absolute worst case...grinder and cutting disk and slow cutting until it splits....i say puller FTW
Once the case is gone, you can push the shaft out more, and get a puller on there...absolute worst case...grinder and cutting disk and slow cutting until it splits....i say puller FTW
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rx1jim
New member
I suggest you do as others here have suggested and diassemble the chaincase. This will allow you to move the drive axle towards the speedometer bearing side so you can get a gear/bearing puller on it. Keep soaking it with penetrating oil/ If you do decide to heat it, which I do NOT reccommend since you are working so close to the carbs, gas lines and gas tank, DO NOT get it to hot or you will melt the drive sprocket closest to the bearing. Also, keep a fire extinguisher handy.
With the chaincase disassembled, inspect every part, depending on the mileage and condition of the lower chaincase bearing, you may want to replace it but definitely replace the seal. Clean all ofthe accumulated metal sludge from the bottom of the chaincase. Clean all the parts up, reassemble it and be sure to lube the shafts and seals with some grease during assembly.
Check the chain to see if there are any broken links.
Be sure to polish up the shaft where the drive axle bearing goes and apply some antiseize compond to the saft before putting the bearing in place, this will make it much easier to remove, inspect and replace later. Be sure the two locking screws in the bearing hub are tightened down and have loctite on them.
Good luck, it will go fine!!
Good luck, it will work out fine.
With the chaincase disassembled, inspect every part, depending on the mileage and condition of the lower chaincase bearing, you may want to replace it but definitely replace the seal. Clean all ofthe accumulated metal sludge from the bottom of the chaincase. Clean all the parts up, reassemble it and be sure to lube the shafts and seals with some grease during assembly.
Check the chain to see if there are any broken links.
Be sure to polish up the shaft where the drive axle bearing goes and apply some antiseize compond to the saft before putting the bearing in place, this will make it much easier to remove, inspect and replace later. Be sure the two locking screws in the bearing hub are tightened down and have loctite on them.
Good luck, it will go fine!!
Good luck, it will work out fine.
Did you unbolt the Tone wheel for the speedo sensor from the end of the axle ? it looks like axle splines but it's not.
no1chevyboy
New member
make sure the collar is loose its eliptical like cam lock ,at least mine are
if you are going to replace the bearing and dont care about the old one then just lay a rag over the outer bearing and make sure you have your safety glasses on and take a big hammer and smack the outer race it should crack in two piece the balls from the bearing can then fall out and the inner race will slide thru the hole in the tunnel and you can deal with it on your work bench. Had to do this on my 98 sx I had the same problem also yes you will have to remove the chain case. GOOD LUCK
LOL! I found that one out the hard way! Maybe I'm not the only one?Gen2!! said:
valin
Active member
It's damn hard to work inside the bellypan to get that bearing off sometimes. You can always grind off the bearing housing inside the tunnel, then deal with getting the bearing off the shaft later. It is stupid that the inner housing is welded in there permanently.
I used a small gear puller to get mine off. Would barely move any other way.
taylzee
New member
If you are messing around with the chain case side, just make sure you don't mess up the oil seals...very easy to do!