crank removal help!!!

Vector88

Vector88

New member
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
Messages
298
Age
36
Location
Labrador, CANADA
alright guys i just lost the middle needle bearing on the connecting rod for the crank and have to remove the crank to get it rebuilt! i am a new timer and have never removed a crank from a sled before. what does i need to do. can anyone tell me step by step what i has to do? like the removing part? any help would be really great!!!

thank you!!
 
step one: remove engine from sled.
step two: remove recoil, and stator (need a puller to remove stator)
 
i have the engine out i just need to take the flywheel off and remove some more parts. so do u just un bolt the cases at the bottom of the motor and haul it apart? no small peices i should watch out for?
 
venom, there won't be studs on his viper case, he will have bolts. rx-1, just take off recoil, flywheel, stator, and plate that holds the wires behind flywheel. then undo all the bolts for the crankcase, in the reverse order of the numbers. there will be like 6 or 7 bolts not labeled, those you loosen first, starting with the ones farthest out from the center of case. remember to criss cross back and forth. after those 6 or 7 bolts are out, then you can start loosening the ones that are labeled w/a number. start w/the higher numbers first and work your way down to the one labeled "1". once all loosened, take all the bolts out and then pull case halves apart. might be a little bit of a PITA, to get the case halves off the dowel pins and to break the seal of the yamabond. you'll get it tho. if you need any more help, you know where to post.
 
alright i took my recoil, flywheel, and stator off and the plates and coolant pump peice and now im ready to haul the crank out of the case. you said there were like 6 or 7 bolts with no label but all i see is bolts with 8 and 9 labeled on them. there is 16 "8" bolts and 8 "9" bolts so where is the 6 or 7 bolts that are not labeled? when taking them off does i take the 9's out first then the 8's then the case could haul apart? let me know

thanks
 
i'm going to try and post pics to describe what i'm saying. you'll have to bear w/me, as i'm terrible w/posting pics etc....lol. maybe daman can help me w/the pics posting?? hey daman!!
 
for disassembly, loosen the bolts in the purple circles first, in reverse order, of the numbers shown....meaning, loosen bolt #6, then #5, and so on. for the 2nd step of disassembly, loosen the bolts in the top pic, which have #'s cast into the crankcase to follow.....loosen those in reverse order too....meaning start w/#16 and then #15 and so on.

for assembly, start w/#1 (cast into crankcase), then #2, and so on....in the top pic. the last step of assembly, tighten the ones 1-6 of the bottom pic, starting w/1 and then 2 and so on.

remember to stage your torques...meaning, don't go to the finish torque of 19ft-lbs off the bat....start at 10ft-lbs on each bolt, then go to 15ft-lbs and then to 19ft-lbs....you understand?

i forgot to add that the 6 bolts in the purple circles of the bottom pics, only go to 11 ft-lbs, not 19 ft-lbs like the 16 bolts in the above pic.
 

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you don't need to lock any kind of bearings during disassembly. only during reassembly, do you need to put the bearing stop pins in the little pockets in the case.
 
thanks mopar1rules, i got my crank out and its sent to a crank shop! thanks alot for the help! turns out one bearing by the middle conecting rod and the wide bearing on the mag side was gone. and the middle connecting rod and needle bearing needs to be replaced. im getting all new bearings on the crank, 3 connecting rods, 3 needle bearings and turns out that spacer in the middle of the crank was gone too lol. i could move it back and forth. i should have my crank back by saturday!
 
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