track 'hook up' for polaris (sorry...)

peterdb

peterdb

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Nov 17, 2008
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Grayslake, IL
hey guys, i know polaris???
i just feel you get much more mature and serious answers on this site. so, if i may....
i picked up an 05 xcsp 600 brand new left over. it will primarily be a second/buddy sled. i finally had a chance to tak'er for her first 20 mile spin....literally! spin is all that track does! not to mention a good bit of fish tailing. i got off my 09 vector ltx and hopped straight onto this and...whoa! what a difference! i love that vector! anyway, the (polaris) has the stock .91 lug height. so my question is....would it be a waste of money to stud this track? or do i really need to just scrap it and get a 1.25 aftermarkt? do you think a 'well' studded .91 will hook up better than an unstudded 1.25? or would i have to studd the 1.25 also? i'd like to follow the path of least 'cash' resistance to achieve some good traction. i really don't want to sink a whole lot into this, but at the same time i would like for whomever is riding it to be able to....'ride it' and get up and go. 100% of all riding i do is northern WI and U.P. trails.
thanks for any and all input guys!
p.s. you never know....it might be one of you guys riding it as i will be sure to make at least one of the TY rides. if anyone had sled problems, they would be welcome to ride this one! i know....i know.... your all riding yammies (like me).....what sled problems?
 
A good 1" or better track with a few studs should be fine. I would not put more than 100 of them on there though.

The .91 with 192 studs on my Dad's Viper hooks up on the snow pretty good and on ice the way you would expect but my not studded 1" predator hooks up on snow as well or better and is much more fun in the powder.
 
Studs are the cheap way out with the old short lug tracks. 144 would be good on that sled. Expect great hook up on hardpack and ice but on loose trails or powder theres now way you can match a good deep lug track. Studs should alleviate the fishtailing too.
 
i guess it really depends.if you could find a good takeoff ripsaw from a newer sled that some body didnt want.then i would say pick that up..could prolly find them for around $200..that would be cheaper than studs,better for the track & take about the same amount of time to get the job done...
 
thanks again guys! looks like i will just get a new track. what do you think i could sell that stock track for? only has 20 miles on it.
 
I would look at the suspenshion first or have the dealor look[seeing its brand new]]The limiters might have to be [let out]or the front shock tightened.Maybie the ski springs are to high as well.

Shure you cant beat a bigger lug but that track should not be that bad.

It just sounds like it is not set up right.
 
bluewho said:
I would look at the suspenshion first or have the dealor look[seeing its brand new]]The limiters might have to be [let out]or the front shock tightened.Maybie the ski springs are to high as well.

Shure you cant beat a bigger lug but that track should not be that bad.

It just sounds like it is not set up right.
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ok...yeah, i wasn't sure if 'set up' would have that much of an effect. but i'll try that first. thanks!
nosboy....look at my avatar...read my original post. have a brand new vector. polaris is secondary/buddy/back up sled. ;)!
 
I would stick with the OEM track and run 1.125 studs. 144 to be exact. check for the front limiter strap too tight. I have been seeing this in some of my customers sleds. let out limiter to furthest position, set front ski shocks to "Medium". Use either 4" or 6" carbides. Keep the Polaris as back up. Good sled easy to work on.
 
bluewho said:
I would look at the suspenshion first or have the dealor look[seeing its brand new]]The limiters might have to be [let out]or the front shock tightened.Maybie the ski springs are to high as well.

Shure you cant beat a bigger lug but that track should not be that bad.

It just sounds like it is not set up right.
Click to expand...


Yes, definitely set the suspension up first. Then add studs to the stock track.

I bet the coupling blocks are all not set right.

Those edge sleds are very good sleds, and fast to boot. I bet you will find that once you have the suspension set right, and the stock track studded that you will like the edge quite a bit. My 00 xcsp spun a lot from the factory, then I studded it with 144 studs, and set it up right.
 
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Agreed. Set up the rear skid, 144 - 1.075" carbide, 6-8" of carbide up front.

Don't forget, if this is a back up/buddy sled, you want him to be able to stop on ice and not end up under your snow flap. Sooner or later you'll have a rookie on it.

IMHO - I won't ride on "groomed" (high traffic) trails without studs.
 
How much would it cost you to get studded? That's would be my choice if it's cheaper. Get some polaris guys to help you get the suspension setup too.
 
For 144 studs installed, I usually charge $500.00. The more studs the higher the install. I have studded 6 sleds of my boat customers the year so far. All seem to be very happy.
 
I went from Yoko .92 -> Yoko .92 with 144 studs -> studless 1.25" ripsaw. GO with the ripsaw, hooked up better on everything except glare ice better than the studed Yoko.
 
Yup, it should be a Camoplast .92" which IMO is a much better track then the OEM Yoko crap. I studded my '01 SRX with 192 and was never happy with it. Conversely, the OEM track on my '96 XCR responded well with 144 1.075" studs.

I ended up going with a 1" Aggressor and 192 1.075" for the SRX. The track is a lot heavier than most and has some really beefy lugs that go all the way across and at first 1.075" studs may not seem to be long enough (only .075" penatration), but they do the job. I had to clip the lugs about an 1/8" to allow clearance with the front protector and also run the track I bit tighter than I like.

A couple years back I was on the lake not expecting to win any 60 ft. launches but was surprised to be right next to some highly chiseled (>244) sleds when the light went green. Of course the starting line was pretty chewed up and I think the heavier lugs helped by not bending while stressed and I never had a chance to line up against the same sleds on a freshly plowed track so the results may have been different. I'm sure the ripsaw is better in powder and even on packed trails.

Over all I'm happy with it and again, IMO, I would not ride public trails without studs and surely wouldn't put a buddy on a non-studded machine, rookie or not.
 
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