Over Reving

Sanka

Sanka

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Joined
Feb 8, 2005
Messages
151
Location
Illinois
On a 2000 SRX when I over rev the temp light flashes repeatedly. Is this normal. Or is some thing else happening?
 
It blinks consistantly after I ride over 8500 rpms
I thought that this meant I was over reving. A rev light
 
nope not a over rev light somthing not right with the servo i would say
cables are to tight or you got a valve pull out,pull valves and check setting.
 
It only does it at wot and it takes a few seconds to start? If the valves where out of adjustment would'nt it do it all the time?
 
valves start to open around 6-7,000 in that area cdi is picking up somthing
not right,check your servo motion and valves,,there was no over rev light
on any srx...

start with that and we'll go from there...
 
Not yet its going to 8700 ish still with 56.9 grams of total weight
70 twist with a 51 45 helix
 
WEIGHTS STILL TO LITE. OR INCRESE FINISH ANGLE ON HELIX. OR TRY RED SPRING IN SECONDARY. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
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yammiegod, i believe the shallower the finish angle of the helix, the higher the rpms will be, due to slowing down the shift. he would need a steeper helix, or just more weight, or a softer secondary spring, or less wrap, or less finish force on primary spring--less rate. sanka, what springs are you using in both clutches?
 
Sliver in sec
y-w-y in primary (stock) w/4mm of shims
89a10 weights (56.9gms)
70 degree wrap
22-37 gearing
192 picks
i weight 185lbs
 
try 60 on the secondary wrap, should find about 200 rpm lower or so

I found on my 2000 srx that the 51/43 had too shallow of an angle for full shiftout so i had high rpm, I kept the other clutching ( added heel weight, and www primary, green secondary) but went back to my 47 deg stock helix and hit 8500 again.
it is true that a low finish angle will be harder to shift through. larger angle is easier to shift through hense your rpm will be lower.

all of this is a spring and torque balance so unfortunately there are numerous combinations to change to resolve the issues, jsut try one at a time.

Ramb
 
still does not answer the lwarnign code thougth

does it binak a certain number of times? there shoudl be error codes to tell you what the computer is sensing

Ramb
 
mopar1rules said:
yammiegod, i believe the shallower the finish angle of the helix, the higher the rpms will be, due to slowing down the shift. he would need a steeper helix, or just more weight, or a softer secondary spring, or less wrap, or less finish force on primary spring--less rate. sanka, what springs are you using in both clutches?
Click to expand...
SEE RULES THIS IS MY PROBLEM, AND I HAD A DISCUSSION ON HERE LAST FALL ABOUT THAT.I SAID SAME THING AS YOU. YOUR SAYING WHEN YA ADD FINISH, YOUR RPM SHOULD INCRESE OR DECRESE. SO HE AT 51-45 AND TURNING TO MANY RPM. WITH NOTHING CHANGED, HE GOES TO A 51-47. WHAT SHOULD HAPPEN ? THESE HELIX,s ARE ALL CUT DEFFERENT. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
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sanka going to a 51/47 should decrease rpms, but now i see he's using a 4mm shim in primary, which would increase the rate of the spring, and also lead to the higher rpms. i think he should take the shims out, and try it. shims are a bandaid in my opinion. just get the proper primary spring and weight combo to get straight shift. just so everyone knows, i'm not trying to start an arguement or anything...just trying to help out.

larger angles = lower rpms = slower backshift = less side force to belt

lower angles = higher rpms = quicker backshift = more side force to belt
 
maybe he coil bind the primary spring too.... result in overrave ...4mm shim seem alots
 
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