Over Reving

I think the light was because a had a stuck power valve. Just cleaned it. Gonna take out the shims tomorrow.
Thanks
 
mopar1rules said:
sanka going to a 51/47 should decrease rpms, but now i see he's using a 4mm shim in primary, which would increase the rate of the spring, and also lead to the higher rpms. i think he should take the shims out, and try it. shims are a bandaid in my opinion. just get the proper primary spring and weight combo to get straight shift. just so everyone knows, i'm not trying to start an arguement or anything...just trying to help out.

larger angles = lower rpms = slower backshift = less side force to belt

lower angles = higher rpms = quicker backshift = more side force to belt
Click to expand...
DUDE, NO ARGUEMENT AT ALL TAK,IN HERE. LET ME EXPLAIN. I INCRESED FINISH ANGLE ON MY 95 VMAX 800 GRASS DRAG SLED AND GAINED RPM. I THAN INCRESED FINISH ON MY SRX AT RPM DECRESED. AFEW POSTED TO ME RPM SHOULD OF DECRESED ON MY VMAX 4. I WROTE IT OFF BECAUSE ALOT OF THOSE CAMS ARE CUT DEFFERENT AND ACT DEFFERENT. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
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mopar1rules said:
sanka going to a 51/47 should decrease rpms, but now i see he's using a 4mm shim in primary, which would increase the rate of the spring, and also lead to the higher rpms. i think he should take the shims out, and try it. shims are a bandaid in my opinion. just get the proper primary spring and weight combo to get straight shift. just so everyone knows, i'm not trying to start an arguement or anything...just trying to help out.

larger angles = lower rpms = slower backshift = less side force to belt

lower angles = higher rpms = quicker backshift = more side force to belt
Click to expand...


If this is true wouldn't you want to run as low of an angle as possible and still hit target rpm????? Not to jack the post, just trying to understand as much as possible!!!
 
tony, just making sure an arguement wasn't going to start, cause when that happens, i get a vacation, and i don't want/need that anymore.....i figured no arguement, but just making sure. we can talk/express our ideas/thoughts easily. tony, w/your v-max grass drag sled, i think something else happened, like either spring wrap or primary clutch change of either spring, engagement shim, or weight, which caused the rpm increase. i don't believe it was the steeper helix. from what i've always seen, when playing w/clutching components, is that steeper angle gives lower rpm.

riverrunner, i like to run as steep of a helix, that my sled w/pull for the conditions. the steeper the angle, the quicker the upshift, so sled is quicker to top mph. thing is, you can't go too steep, that your belt grab suffers soo bad, that the belt slips and you overshift on top end or bottom end. also, not so steep, that when trail riding in some twisty trails, that the backshift is soo far in the crapper, to have quick backshift and throttle response. there's always a happy medium needed.
 
everytime u raise the angle the rpm will drop cause u load the motor ... so going with a smaller helix number will raised it cause it apply less load to the motor
 
to mutch angle u will need to remove some weight in primary and not enough angle will result adding weight to primary
 
THIS WAS MY WAY FOR YEARS, AND AGREE WITH WHAT THE WAY YOU GUYS SAY THIS WORKS. BUT AGAIN, I TESTED WITH ALL BRANDS OF CAMS WHICH MAY OF BEEN MY PROBLEM. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
the differance in numbers is as important as the angles.take a 52/44 its starts shifting at 52 the momentim of the shift will allow it to shift faster on the lower numbers.take a cat with a straight 53 you can put a 57/50 and it will not over rev.but for sure the higher the number less rpm.but then you get into gearing and thats a hole other story
 
THAT WHY ITS SO INPORTANT TO GET A ACCURATE HELIX. GET THE NUMBERS THEY SAY. GUYS GREAT POST. I APOLOGIZE TO SANKA BECAUSE AT FIRST I SENT HIM WRONG WAY 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
YAMMIEGOD3:16 said:
THIS WAS MY WAY FOR YEARS, AND AGREE WITH WHAT THE WAY YOU GUYS SAY THIS WORKS. BUT AGAIN, I TESTED WITH ALL BRANDS OF CAMS WHICH MAY OF BEEN MY PROBLEM. 3:16 (yammie tony)
Click to expand...

i see what you are saying....not all brands measure their angles the same. for ex. you might try a bender 51/43 and notice too high of rpms and so you try a dalton 51/45 and notice either no change or higher rpms....cause they (bender and dalton) don't measure the stuff the same. of course, what i just said about the bender 51/43 helix and dalton 51/45 helix, is just for example....your sled may not actually act that way....if you know what i mean.

well, lets wait and see what sanka comes up w/now that he's trying it w/o the shims. we'll see what he says and then go from there.
 
while im here I wanted your opinions on my setup, 2000 srx 700 (stock)8dn's, (added) loaded arms with 4.5 nut & bolt, y-s-y, green at 70, haulk 51/45. goes right to 8500 and stays there, I guess I want it to climb slower to maximum rpm .. to pull a little harder, sugestions?
 
i believe a higher initial angle would make it upshift even faster, I thought- - no?
 
im trying to get it to climb from like 8,100 8,200rpm up to 8500, maybe load the engine more, just seems to be a little flat, goes right to 8500, feels like i could have more pull.. this is my first clutching work I have done, added weight, springs, and helix at once. seems to take longer to get to top end speed.. thanks for any advice.
 
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