ReaperSRX
Member
I had read that some of you guys have made up a harness to activate the servo motor to wide open, can someone post pics of this and where to hook up, i would just do the idle thing but i am in the middle of changing track and other maintenance and figured i just do it this way.........Reaper
Srxspec
Your #1 performance shop!
Might just be cheaper to buy one from Maxx Performance. They're like $20 I believe.
Bigmax
New member
Has anyone checked the "tool" against lowering the idle to compare the position of the servo valve? I'd be interested in knowing whether they are the same. On my SRX, if I remember right, the servo could actually be turned further by hand than where it stopped when I did the idle trick. Just currious if the "tool" take it to the same position or whether it runs the servo all the way to it's limit which may not be the same place the sled would put it.
ReaperSRX
Member
You have a point, because when i was cleanning my valves, i tried and got the servo to turn all the way open, but have no bench marks to see if that wide open is the same either with the "tool" or engine idle speed at 900RPM...........Reaper
its really best to get the tool from Max Perf or from Rich Motorsports, it is cheap enough and it will take it all the way to the stop like it should.
ReaperSRX
Member
I'd love to get one, but can't seen to find anybody here in Ontario, Canada who can get one, anybody out there have one for sale....Reaper
Contact Rich Motorsports and see if he can send when to Canada.
Bigmax
New member
Mr. Sled, have you ever done it with the idle? Just currious because when I did it that way I can still turn the servo a little bit further by hand once the sled is off. For that reason, it seem like the sled isn't turning the servo all the way to the "hard stop". So, for discussion purposes:
1) Does the sled not turn the servo all the way to the hard stop to be considered fully open?
2) Does the Tester turn the servo all the way to the hard stop or does it truely turn it to the same position that the sled does?
3) If the hard stop should be used for the adjustment, why couldn't you just turn the servo by hand to the hard stop?
What's everyone's thoughts / comments?
1) Does the sled not turn the servo all the way to the hard stop to be considered fully open?
2) Does the Tester turn the servo all the way to the hard stop or does it truely turn it to the same position that the sled does?
3) If the hard stop should be used for the adjustment, why couldn't you just turn the servo by hand to the hard stop?
What's everyone's thoughts / comments?
I have never done the idle thing, but I no longer have a SRX to go try it. I have always used the tool and it does the job and is what is recomended by the service manual...but I would like to more about this other test for others.
Guys, on both CDI's the low idle condition (below 900 - 1000 rpm) is mapped to fully open the powervalves. This is the same position that the tool would turn the servo to when powered up. Turning the motor by hand will go beyond the position that it will go electrically, and if turned hard enough can damage the servo.
I agree with Tom, and Allen (and anyone else that chimed in) that the easiest and most foolproof method is to simply get the tool.
For myself however, I spent several years of childhood learning about electricity from my Dad, followed by several years of college in Electronics Engineering. It is real difficult for me to purchase a tool that simply sends a certain voltage to a certain wire to simply power a servo motor, when the onboard electronics are already programmed to do the same thing.
I agree with Tom, and Allen (and anyone else that chimed in) that the easiest and most foolproof method is to simply get the tool.
For myself however, I spent several years of childhood learning about electricity from my Dad, followed by several years of college in Electronics Engineering. It is real difficult for me to purchase a tool that simply sends a certain voltage to a certain wire to simply power a servo motor, when the onboard electronics are already programmed to do the same thing.
Bigmax
New member
So, Ding, I take it you turn your idle down? 
I agree with ya, except I can't see spending the $25 for something I can do for free with the twist of a nob. If both ways work I guess it comes down to personal preference.
I agree with ya, except I can't see spending the $25 for something I can do for free with the twist of a nob. If both ways work I guess it comes down to personal preference.
ReaperSRX
Member
I just ordered one from Vic at SledPro, he is out of stock but should get some in form MaxxPerf by end of next week, should be under $50 CND taxes and shipping incl..........question, will this tool work on my buddy's Viper?
ecopter
New member
I've done it two ways; both without the tool which I won't get.
1st - Let the sled idle down, listen for the servo motor, then hit the kill switch. Take the servo motor cover off and mark the position with white out or some other visible cue. Take the pipes off, then remove the "Y' pipes to access your hand up into the exhaust ports to feel the powervalves. They should be flush with the cylinder. If not, they need adjusting.
2nd - Take the pipes off and the "Y" pipes. Remove the servo motor cover. With your hand up the exhaust port and feeling the power valve, turn the servo motor until the power valve is flush with the cylinder. This is the position that the servo motor should be in when the valves are fully open (idle down positon). Mark with white out or something similar.
Put everything back together, start machine, idle down and turn off with kill switch. The servo motor should now be in the same position as the white out mark.
During each "Y" pipe removal, you should also remove the power valves (after finding their position) and clean them.
Either method works and is sufficient for determining the position of the PV's and for ultimate adjusting (if needed).
Jon
1st - Let the sled idle down, listen for the servo motor, then hit the kill switch. Take the servo motor cover off and mark the position with white out or some other visible cue. Take the pipes off, then remove the "Y' pipes to access your hand up into the exhaust ports to feel the powervalves. They should be flush with the cylinder. If not, they need adjusting.
2nd - Take the pipes off and the "Y" pipes. Remove the servo motor cover. With your hand up the exhaust port and feeling the power valve, turn the servo motor until the power valve is flush with the cylinder. This is the position that the servo motor should be in when the valves are fully open (idle down positon). Mark with white out or something similar.
Put everything back together, start machine, idle down and turn off with kill switch. The servo motor should now be in the same position as the white out mark.
During each "Y" pipe removal, you should also remove the power valves (after finding their position) and clean them.
Either method works and is sufficient for determining the position of the PV's and for ultimate adjusting (if needed).
Jon