I installed a 1.25" ripsaw with intentions of cutting the tips off the lugs that rub on the protectors. I decided to run it a bit first to see how well they wear. After 150 miles I noticed several of the lugs have actually torn completely off. Anyone else have this problem? Should I still cut a 1/4" off?
mopar1rules
Active member
you were suppose to lose the tunnel and heat exchanger protectors.
Not if I plan on studding.
chilli
New member
then go to 8 tooth driver is my recommendation
I removed my protectors to install ripsaw, no way was I COOL with letting it wear away like that, for those exact reasons, tearing out the lugs completely
I removed my protectors to install ripsaw, no way was I COOL with letting it wear away like that, for those exact reasons, tearing out the lugs completely
You guys are missing the point. I don't want to get into another 8 tooth or not studding an srx discussion. Just asking if anyone has had issues with lugs hitting protectors and breaking off?
KatahdinLodge
New member
I have seen some tear off at the base of the track, but usually only with sleds that have the tunnel protectors that are u shaped. Dont think I have ever seen ripped ones on the L shaped protectors, those seem to just wear in. Hope this helps.
where in maine are you?
where in maine are you?
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you do not need 8 tooth drivers to run a ripsaw in that sled, you either need to remove guards or leave them in and cut down to 3/4in off the top of the track just where the guards will touch. You do not need to run 1.35 studs in this track. studs have no standards for measurement. If you run a 1.185 roetin, 1.175 woodys 1.2 chissle, they will stick above the lug about 1/4 in. for trail riding it is a great combination. I have seen it done and have done it myself on this stlye sled.
KatahdinLodge said:
Thank you Katahdin for actually answering my question.
BETHEVIPER said:
Took some photos to show just how much of the lug is rubbing. Looks to be as much as a 1/2" +. Also, I added 1.40 Extreme Max studs. They are 1.65" total giving me .15" above a 1.25" lug. Figured this would be safe. The studs haven't been tightened yet, but the photo showing the gap with my finger has the stud fully extended since the back side is pressing on a cog. I have about 1/2" clearance between tip and exchanger. Does this look safe?
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ExpertXViper
New member
I hope you plan on running that track tight tight, 1/2in isnt a whole lot when that track starts slapping around under there. Plus your going to lose some of that 1/2in once you torque those studs down and they settle.
Hasnt this been cover like 1000000000times already? if you want to run a 1.25in track with studs you have to give or take from either a 1in track with studs or 8 tooth drivers.
Hasnt this been cover like 1000000000times already? if you want to run a 1.25in track with studs you have to give or take from either a 1in track with studs or 8 tooth drivers.
i think u should start to look for a new heat exchanger
stud manufacturers lie. when you tighten them up, they are gong to stick through that track way more than .15. Those studs are going to be way too long. you need roetins 1.185 or a woodys 1.175 chissles in the `1.2 legnth, these will stick through neare 1/4 of an inch.
as for tunnel clearence, the chassis and guards were made around a 3/4 in deep lug track, anything taller than that will need to be trimmed off where it lines up with a guard. so if your track is 1in, you need to remove 1/4, 1 1/4, remove 1/2in. If you dont, your just burning gas and tunnel prtector till it is wore in. Why waite for top speed on your sled, cut them now.
For best results running a ripsaw in a pro action with studs, install full length polaris aluminum tunel protectors. they will add strenght to your tunnel and keep the gas tank from trying to dry hump your track through your tunnel.
hope this helps.
as for tunnel clearence, the chassis and guards were made around a 3/4 in deep lug track, anything taller than that will need to be trimmed off where it lines up with a guard. so if your track is 1in, you need to remove 1/4, 1 1/4, remove 1/2in. If you dont, your just burning gas and tunnel prtector till it is wore in. Why waite for top speed on your sled, cut them now.
For best results running a ripsaw in a pro action with studs, install full length polaris aluminum tunel protectors. they will add strenght to your tunnel and keep the gas tank from trying to dry hump your track through your tunnel.
hope this helps.
The half inch of clearence you have , will disappear quick when you slam on the brakes or you ratchet the track and it balloons.
Ive been running a ripsaw with studs and 9 tooth drivers for about 1800 miles.
After you tighten the studs, be certain they dont clear the luggs by more than a 1/4".
When clipping the track, just clip the short teeth on the end of the luggs, which is about a 1/4"(I would recommend a little less to start,maybe 1/8-3/16"). That 1/4" plus the 1/4" penetration adds up to 1/2" the stud will extend past the face of your heat exchanger protector. Plus factor in a little flex of the track lugg and you could have as much as 5/8". Be sure your protectors are 5/8" +.
I just installed a Predator 1 1/4 and have had a few nicks in the exchanger.So I have to modify(add flat stock or shim) my protectors to give me a touch more clearence.
I dont believe I had any luggs ripping off, but I clipped mine before running it.
Ive been running a ripsaw with studs and 9 tooth drivers for about 1800 miles.
After you tighten the studs, be certain they dont clear the luggs by more than a 1/4".
When clipping the track, just clip the short teeth on the end of the luggs, which is about a 1/4"(I would recommend a little less to start,maybe 1/8-3/16"). That 1/4" plus the 1/4" penetration adds up to 1/2" the stud will extend past the face of your heat exchanger protector. Plus factor in a little flex of the track lugg and you could have as much as 5/8". Be sure your protectors are 5/8" +.
I just installed a Predator 1 1/4 and have had a few nicks in the exchanger.So I have to modify(add flat stock or shim) my protectors to give me a touch more clearence.
I dont believe I had any luggs ripping off, but I clipped mine before running it.
Well, I'm pulling the 1.40 studs and replacing them with 1.175" per Betheviper. I have no concerns with that setup since they are the same size studs I was running on the 1" track that was in it for 2300 miles. And, as Betheviper had stated, these should be fine for a ripsaw since the design of the track is more of a staggard lug pattern rather than a paddle type.
Thanks Scott
Got 144 brand new studs for sale if anyones interested. $150 shipped
Thanks Scott
Got 144 brand new studs for sale if anyones interested. $150 shipped
sleddineinar
VIP Member
I have question about the 1.25" track. Or any track I guess... How are they measured? From the tip of lug to back of track or top of track? I other words, do you include the belt when measuring or just the lug?
Include the belt (1/4"). So, a 1.25" track has a 1" lug length.
Thats not correct. A 1 1/4" track has a lugg that is 1 1/4" plus the thickness of the track belt itself.Zachalyse said: