slast
New member
I'm looking for some help with a Keihin carb. I put a new gasket kit in it, and have the sled running good again, but the carb won't stop leaking gas from somewhere. It did this with the old kit, so that's why I bought a new kit. Gas bubbles out of the vent pipe too. Even capping that it still leaks.
Any Ideas?
Any Ideas?
Did you adjust the fuel height yet?
How many turns in did you start with on the adjustment screw?
How many turns in did you start with on the adjustment screw?
slast
New member
Do you mean adjusting the bolt on the botton of the carburator, then yes I have adjusted that. It's very touchy.
As for the needle, it's set to 3/4 of a turn.
As for the needle, it's set to 3/4 of a turn.
Explain how you adjusted the fuel level bolt on the bottom of the carb. Most manuals suggest starting at 6 full turns in. I have found that 4.5 - 5.5 turns in is where most end up once the level is adjusted right. Most needles end up over 1 full turn out.
Yes these carbs can drive you nuts. The adjustment bolt also likes to fall out if the jam nut isn't tight. On an ET250 it is real fun to get to.
Yes these carbs can drive you nuts. The adjustment bolt also likes to fall out if the jam nut isn't tight. On an ET250 it is real fun to get to.
Also, are you sure you got the right kit. Many universal kits do not fit the version of this carb that Yamaha uses.
slast
New member
We adjusted the bolt based on how well it ran. As far as the main jet, is concerned, we put it back to where it was when we took it apart which was 3/4 of a turn. Then we tried moving it to see what the result was. I think we are still a 3/4 of a turn out, but I can check.
As far as the gasket kit is concerned, it's built for a Keihin HD but I don't think it's the right one. The interesting thing is, is that the old kit and the new kit, cover some holes in the carb pump that stop the flow of fuel from the high/low jets. Doesn't make sense but it runs. We even punched out the holes on another gasket and tried it, but it ran better covered up. Does anyone have pictures of what the real gaskets look like?
One problem we did notice, was that the needle would stick closed, but with a little tap, it would fall back out. We figured the vibration would shake it out on its own. We have cleaned this carb 3-4 times now.
Any suggestions?
As far as the gasket kit is concerned, it's built for a Keihin HD but I don't think it's the right one. The interesting thing is, is that the old kit and the new kit, cover some holes in the carb pump that stop the flow of fuel from the high/low jets. Doesn't make sense but it runs. We even punched out the holes on another gasket and tried it, but it ran better covered up. Does anyone have pictures of what the real gaskets look like?
One problem we did notice, was that the needle would stick closed, but with a little tap, it would fall back out. We figured the vibration would shake it out on its own. We have cleaned this carb 3-4 times now.
Any suggestions?
wombat
New member
I have a 197? Enticer and noticed when I cleaned the carbs the needle would "stick" as you noted...tap it a little bit and the needle would loosen. My sled will start fine after it has ran ...but let it sit a few days and it will not start unless I squirt a little gas in the carb throat with the airbox off. Was thinking of adding a bulb primer as it seemed to solve the problem of another fellow Enitcer owner who posted here.
I see your post is from last season but was hoping you still frequent the site to tell me if you solved your hard starting problem.
My local Yamaha dealer says they only sell Keihin carb parts individually...no carb kits available. I am finding the same results when I search the internet for carb kits.
I see your post is from last season but was hoping you still frequent the site to tell me if you solved your hard starting problem.
My local Yamaha dealer says they only sell Keihin carb parts individually...no carb kits available. I am finding the same results when I search the internet for carb kits.
I have a et250 that I cant fill the gas tank past the carburator or it will fill the motor up..how do you adjust the fuel level?
slast
New member
Wombat,
After sitting a few days, it requires several pulls to get it started but I've never had to squirt gas in the carb to get it to start. Sounds like your may need another carb kit. Or else make sure that the diaphragm is positioned correctly so that your carb is draining after sitting so long. My issue is getting the sled to run well on bottom end. It chucks and sputters but once the powerband kicks in, it goes like stink.
After sitting a few days, it requires several pulls to get it started but I've never had to squirt gas in the carb to get it to start. Sounds like your may need another carb kit. Or else make sure that the diaphragm is positioned correctly so that your carb is draining after sitting so long. My issue is getting the sled to run well on bottom end. It chucks and sputters but once the powerband kicks in, it goes like stink.
slast
New member
BarneyMN,
There is a bolt with a locking nut on the bottom of the carb. As well there is a site tube that is capped on the side of the carb. Although in many cases, I've see the site tube broken.
Take the cap off the site tube.
Loosen the locking nut on the bolt on the bottom of the carb.
start the engine.
Look at the fuel level in the site tube. It should be as high as the first gasket. If not turn the bolt in either direction to raise or lower the fuel level. This is very sensitive to movement (2mm at a time). Once you set it right, lock the bolt in position with the locking nut. It may take a few tries but you should get it.
There is a bolt with a locking nut on the bottom of the carb. As well there is a site tube that is capped on the side of the carb. Although in many cases, I've see the site tube broken.
Take the cap off the site tube.
Loosen the locking nut on the bolt on the bottom of the carb.
start the engine.
Look at the fuel level in the site tube. It should be as high as the first gasket. If not turn the bolt in either direction to raise or lower the fuel level. This is very sensitive to movement (2mm at a time). Once you set it right, lock the bolt in position with the locking nut. It may take a few tries but you should get it.
Thanks Slast, Its my buddy's sled and he messed with it all last winter and just got frustrated so he dropped it off...said if I could get it running I could have it!! The Sled is in really nice shape too...lol! I hope its something that easy. Another question is the sled has a decompressor switch that has been broke for a long time, can I just cut the cable and remove it? I'm not worried about being able to pull it but never had a sled with this on it???
slast
New member
BarneyMN,
I just reread your original post. If your engine is flooding when you fill the tank pas the carb, this will not be related to the fuel pressure bolt. It is most likely related to the diaphragm either incorrectly installed, or needing to be replaced. Fix that problem first. Then start adjusting the bolt on the bottom.
As for the decompressor cable, you can probably remove it. I never use mine either. It's not that hard to pull over......now my newly acquired 73 sl292c......that's a different story.....hoping to get the decompressor working....it's a pig to pull over.
I just reread your original post. If your engine is flooding when you fill the tank pas the carb, this will not be related to the fuel pressure bolt. It is most likely related to the diaphragm either incorrectly installed, or needing to be replaced. Fix that problem first. Then start adjusting the bolt on the bottom.
As for the decompressor cable, you can probably remove it. I never use mine either. It's not that hard to pull over......now my newly acquired 73 sl292c......that's a different story.....hoping to get the decompressor working....it's a pig to pull over.
I just got done looking it over a little closer and the sight tube is cracked...where can I find one of those? I looked on the parts catalog and couldnt find it. I can start it with a little starting fluid and it runs great??? when its warm, it fires right up. I can pull the choke and it doesnt do anything, I pulled the choke out of the carb and it was free and clear?? I think I will try to find a rebuild kit or parts right off the yamaha site and start over,
found the tube and cap! time to get to work
tighten the screw all the way in and bring it out 3/4 of a turn? I took my carb apart and cant get it running again, whats a good starting point on the bottom bolt? I see why he dropped it off...lolslast said:
slast
New member
BarneyMN,
Where did you find the site tube and cap? Mine are cracked and leak so I tried to seal them with epoxy.
The screw is 3/4 - 1 1/4 of a turn from gently closed.
As a previous post mentioned. in books the bolt on the bottom should be 6 turns out, but I found the bolt falls out at that. 4.5 - 5.5 turns out from all the way in, is a good starting point.
Steve
Where did you find the site tube and cap? Mine are cracked and leak so I tried to seal them with epoxy.
The screw is 3/4 - 1 1/4 of a turn from gently closed.
As a previous post mentioned. in books the bolt on the bottom should be 6 turns out, but I found the bolt falls out at that. 4.5 - 5.5 turns out from all the way in, is a good starting point.
Steve
Here is the part #'s for the tube and cap. 810-14197-02-00 (tube) 810-24462-01-00 (cap). I got that off the Yamaha parts fiche, you can just call any Yamaha dealer and they can order it.slast said:
slast
New member
BarneyMN,
Thanks man. I called last year and they said they couldn't get carb kits....I just assumed that I couldn't get anything for that carb. I'm going to order a few parts now for sure....Should get this baby working well.
Thanks,
Steve
Thanks man. I called last year and they said they couldn't get carb kits....I just assumed that I couldn't get anything for that carb. I'm going to order a few parts now for sure....Should get this baby working well.
Thanks,
Steve