Front Heat Exchanger Repair

sleddineinar

sleddineinar

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Ramsey Minnesota, United States
How hard is it to get the front heat exchanger out? It's got a little leak. Or can I just mix up some JB Weld and fix it, with it in place?

I was going to pull it out, when I replace my track and have someone weld it. But my new track is on back-order, I won't see it for another 2-3 weeks.
 
Use jb weld it works fine. Make sure you have it clean and also scuff the area up well. done one 3 years ago still not leaking
 
I would not trust jb weld,you don't want a failure out in BFE far from nowhere pull the skid ,front axle and take it to a welder is my recommendation.
 
I plan on having it welded. But was waiting for my new track. I wanted to ride some while I'm waiting. I was just wondering if JB would hold for a couple weeks while I wait for the track. BTW, I'll be putting in front heat exchange protectors, when I fix it all.
 
It does work but it also makes a huge mess and if the whole is very big its not going to do anything.
Personally if your not going on any long trips alone and you keep a close eye on it i would jbweld it then pull it and weld it as soon as the track ships so its ready when they track arrives to go in.
 
Yea, I don't have any long trips planned in next two weeks. I know I've put Bars No-leak in my cars & trucks before, with mostly good results. I just wasn't sure about it in my sled. But I think I'll go with the JB Weld for now.
 
I used 3/4" aluminum square stock, I use a product called alumabraze, this is aluminum aloy which you can weld similar to brazing, Just clean heat exchanger very well, and weld, braze aluminum stock onto heat exchanger fins. I did this on 600 DLX SX with excellent results. You do have to remove the track and drive to access the heat exchanger. cost was about $20.
 
alswagg said:
I used 3/4" aluminum square stock, I use a product called alumabraze, this is aluminum aloy which you can weld similar to brazing, Just clean heat exchanger very well, and weld, braze aluminum stock onto heat exchanger fins. I did this on 600 DLX SX with excellent results. You do have to remove the track and drive to access the heat exchanger. cost was about $20.
Click to expand...

Al, where did you get your Alumabraze at? I did a google search, but it wasn't much help.
 
pretty sure you have to pull the motor to do the front heat exchanger on a 700sx.............
 
I wouldn't bypass the front heat exchanger, if it worked that way Yamaha wouldn't have bothered to include it with every new SX or SXR. As to your question about removing the heat exchanger, it is one of the worst jobs I've ever tackled with sleds. Pitched a stud through mine, bought a used replacement. There is rivet drilling required at 90 degrees, chain case has to be removed as does the air box and engine if I recall correctly. If it could be welded while still in the chassis, then that would probably be the best, but JB weld or some other epoxy might just do the trick.
 
I'm going to see if I can get it repaired while it is still in the chassis. I was looking at it today, and I don't want to have to take it out if I don't have to. I'm going to have protectors tacked onto it as well.
 
It is best to remove the track and drive axle to repair exchanger. I have added protectors with good luck, sleddineinar I sent you a PM on where to buy alumabraze. Good luck Al
 
alswagg said:
It is best to remove the track and drive axle to repair exchanger. I have added protectors with good luck, sleddineinar I sent you a PM on where to buy alumabraze. Good luck Al
Click to expand...

I emailed Johnson Mfg. They don't call it Alumabraze anymore because someone else has the copyright on that name. They call it Aluminum brazing Rod. Anyway, I ordered 2 pkgs of Rods and a 4 oz. tub of flux. They had a minimum order of $25. They were very helpful and said I should have it tomorrow. Thanks for the help, Al. ;)!
 
This is the way I repair crack's:
Drain all coolant completely, route out crack with a 1/8" carbide bit or equivilant, clean all surrounding area with degreaser and then reclean with Acetone. Heat area to braze with propane torch, rough up area with SST wire brush. Start brazing. Good luck Al
 
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