2000 SXR700 seized (3600 miles)

next is pistons and cylinders;

mag side got the most of it as usual, buttom ring shot, looks to be as it overheated, as if the piston was melting into the cylinder walls, left a nice scuff, more on the exhaust port side,had hard time taking cylinder of specialy on the buttom! hopefully machine shop will be able to hone without boring or taking anything excesive of!

center is much better but got a little heat transfered there, left a scar line on the exhaust port side but rings are not shot. that one can be honed for sure, but piston and rings would need to be replaced.

pto side received no damage, piston/cylinder looks perfect aswell as rings.
altho i didnt like the piston wash on that particular piston! ??

all parts looks oem and have yamaha part# on them, i didnt take measurments but looks like nothing was bored before.

id have no problem rebuilding only 2 out 3 right ??
 

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pictures continued;
 

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another thing i noticed that might play a roll in this;

you know how the oil reservoir/bottle is weird shaped?, almost like two seperate bottles. so when i look into the small side of the bottle the one closer to the edge of the sled, its completely empty, but the other side where the oil cup is, its full to the top!

am i thinking right?, that the passage in the bottle might be blocked somehow?

antifreeze was present allright, while i was taking the engine apart.
so im thinking can it be the missing oil creating overheating situation?

I'll go thru the carbs aswell while i'm in there!
 
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anyone has parts for my sled, in Canada ??

if I can reuse all my gaskets that look good to the eye ??
then i would need the following;

2 oem pistons with rings.
maybe one cylinder if my mag cant be honed.
guage pod (where speedometer and tachometer goes).

please let me know !!
thanks...
 
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another thing i noticed that might not be right;
while checking the oil in the chaincase, i took out the dipstick a couple times and I get some kinda milky/white/brown oil on the dipstick

is this something normal ??
 
Well, looking at the mag cylinder there is no piston wash, which tells me that that cylinder may be jetted way lean or the needle needs to be moved to make it richer.
The center cyl is a little better but also lacks alot of piston wash.
The pto cylinder looks a ton richer than the other two.
YOU NEED TO CHECK THE JETTING IN THE CARBS TO AVOID ANY MORE MELTDOWNS IN THE FUTURE!(also USE premium only!) When you clean/check the carbs report your jetting findings.
Since you said that there was only 2 layers to the head gasket it means that some one "peeled" the gasket to raise the compression, this mod also requires the use premium fuel. If you want to and if there is no sealing material removed from the "old" headgasket you may reuse them, You will want to replace the base gaskets at all costs as it is too easy to have a leak at the base of the cylinder that will cause problems with another burndown.

As for your chaincase oil, it sounds like it is time to drain and replace the fluid the milky white color is water/moisture in the lubricant. There is a drain plug in the tunnel by the driveshaft.
 
anyone has parts for my 2000 sxr700 sled, in Canada ??


2 oem pistons with rings.
1 oem cylinder.
3 base gaskets
guage pod (where speedometer and tachometer goes).

please let me know !!
thanks...
 
ok, today i had a chance to take the airbox and carbs out.
first I had to clean the carbs from outside, then drained all the fuel from bowls and started opening up carb cover one by one, everything was very nice and clean inside of all 3 carbs! I only had to clean pilot jet on the pto side carb, that would explain lean pistonwash on pto piston!

all fuel screws are fine except for mag side that was seized!
that screw barely made it alive :) had to heat it up with a torch and cool down with compressed air for couple cicles and got it loose, then just filed the head of the screw abit for good fitment of flat screwdriver.


MAIN - 147.5 across
PILOT- 52.5 across
Fuel - 1 7/8 out across


I'm thinking to put everything back together, unless something needs to be changed here ??

thanks....
 
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I have the same sled with $1200.00 of bender add on's and at 3000 miles it's time for a set of rings and pistons. I now have 6000 and I need to do it again. My compression is only 100 per cyl. I havn't had any issues till now. I have cylinder spark cut out at high rpm. new coils and plugs and still skip. any suggestions?
 
Adam700sxr said:
I have the same sled with $1200.00 of bender add on's and at 3000 miles it's time for a set of rings and pistons. I now have 6000 and I need to do it again. My compression is only 100 per cyl. I havn't had any issues till now. I have cylinder spark cut out at high rpm. new coils and plugs and still skip. any suggestions?
Click to expand...


sorry, no clue on the spark, maybe stator if coils and plugs are new.

if you have 100psi compression its defenetly time for top end rebuild!
right now your pistons on the sides are probably brown or dark from rings not holding combusted compression, and eventually they will let loose or get shot
and damage piston,cylinder,head and sometimes even the crank!

if nothing is damaged, get new rings to match your pistons and a light hone job on your cylinders and you should be good again....
 
kl-ze said:
I have no clue really, never paid attention to oil consumption.

let me know whats on your mind ?

thanks...
Click to expand...

You should need to add about 1 US quart per 12 US gallons to be roughly 50:1. I never paid much attention myself unless I was going through too much oil at $30 a gallon. I have been measuring how much I have to add to my oil bottle and will be adjusting next time I ride.

I thought a 2000 SX700R took 87 octane gas. I have been doing the premium without alcohol last tank before storage.
 
check your needles position in every carb and check sync looks like you are running lean on two ,rich on one ,way to drastic a differance check everything float height,float needles, all passages totally dissasemble and clean and blow compressed air through check fuel,fuelpump,oilpump and flow
 
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oil

You look rich enough until it got hot and it seized. If there isn't enough oil the first thing to go is the pistons. Going slow less oil getting in.
 
gild said:
You look rich enough until it got hot and it seized. If there isn't enough oil the first thing to go is the pistons. Going slow less oil getting in.
Click to expand...


ok, i would need to check if oil pump is working fine, will try to find it in the manual first...

thanks....
 
I have one more question for you all,
how can I drain my full tank of 87 octane ?? there is no way i'm going to run that same gas after rebuild!!


thanks...
 
kl-ze said:
I have one more question for you all,
how can I drain my full tank of 87 octane ?? there is no way i'm going to run that same gas after rebuild!!


thanks...
Click to expand...

Siphon hose will get almost all of it out.
 
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