I have been lurking and reading the posts for quite some time and admire the knowledge that you guys have and share.
I have a 03 viper er with a h/c and gear down one tooth and 1.25 track, and the rest of the sled is stock. I love the performance that i'm getting in the low end and the middle but top it is lacking which maybe from my size (6'7" 375lbs). But that is not my problem today, maybe in the future I'll get help but the top end performance.
I live in Iowa so most of our trails are through farm fields. Yesterday we were out riding and having a blast with I went to pass a slower rider (a/c LOL) I hit a large frozen dirt clump about the size of a volley ball. Do to the flat light I did not see it until i was right on it. I took it straight, down the center of the sled. It did hit the belly pan and we think that it might have ever so slightly bend the bulk head but not sure. When the track hit it, it was just a slight bump. Went 20 yards more and then you could denitately feel rubbing/drag on the track. We tipped it up but could not find were it was rubbing. We saw that the bulk head is slightly pushed back but we still have some clearance on the track. We also saw that there was ice build up on the drivers. Cleaned the ice off and and ran it down the trail. Thes sled would act fine except when hitting any bump or when the suspension was compressed I would then feel the rubbing/drag. ran it about 2 miles at a grandma's pace (less than 30) and then it developed a vibration with the rubbing. The vibration only happen with the rubbing. and it seemed like is was coming from the left foot area.
Got back, and picked up the sled and checked out the jack shaft and bearings. The jackshaft runs true and no play in the bearings. We noticed that the backlash was a little loose, pulled the dipstick on the chaincase and had metal, tore apart the chaincase think that striped the chain only to find nothing a matter other than it being slightly loose.
Then we pulled skid out and found a couple of bushing (2 - front shock bushings - 2 - upper w-arm bushing) that are worn out. Also found a limiter strap badly damaged. It also appears that i might have tweaked the rear skid as it does not sit perfectly level on the floor.
I'm ordering the the bushings and the limiter straps today. But are these my problem or should I be looking a the tweaked skid, or is there something else that I'm missing????? I wish that I had the money for the m-10 upgrade but pocket book is saying no. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
I have a 03 viper er with a h/c and gear down one tooth and 1.25 track, and the rest of the sled is stock. I love the performance that i'm getting in the low end and the middle but top it is lacking which maybe from my size (6'7" 375lbs). But that is not my problem today, maybe in the future I'll get help but the top end performance.
I live in Iowa so most of our trails are through farm fields. Yesterday we were out riding and having a blast with I went to pass a slower rider (a/c LOL) I hit a large frozen dirt clump about the size of a volley ball. Do to the flat light I did not see it until i was right on it. I took it straight, down the center of the sled. It did hit the belly pan and we think that it might have ever so slightly bend the bulk head but not sure. When the track hit it, it was just a slight bump. Went 20 yards more and then you could denitately feel rubbing/drag on the track. We tipped it up but could not find were it was rubbing. We saw that the bulk head is slightly pushed back but we still have some clearance on the track. We also saw that there was ice build up on the drivers. Cleaned the ice off and and ran it down the trail. Thes sled would act fine except when hitting any bump or when the suspension was compressed I would then feel the rubbing/drag. ran it about 2 miles at a grandma's pace (less than 30) and then it developed a vibration with the rubbing. The vibration only happen with the rubbing. and it seemed like is was coming from the left foot area.
Got back, and picked up the sled and checked out the jack shaft and bearings. The jackshaft runs true and no play in the bearings. We noticed that the backlash was a little loose, pulled the dipstick on the chaincase and had metal, tore apart the chaincase think that striped the chain only to find nothing a matter other than it being slightly loose.
Then we pulled skid out and found a couple of bushing (2 - front shock bushings - 2 - upper w-arm bushing) that are worn out. Also found a limiter strap badly damaged. It also appears that i might have tweaked the rear skid as it does not sit perfectly level on the floor.
I'm ordering the the bushings and the limiter straps today. But are these my problem or should I be looking a the tweaked skid, or is there something else that I'm missing????? I wish that I had the money for the m-10 upgrade but pocket book is saying no. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
I meant to say it bend the front heat exchanger when I stated bulk head.
You need to have a good look at the skid if it only happens while the skid is in motion. Meaning not just cruising along at a steady pace. The skid not sitting level is a concern depending on the degree. Some pics would be helpful. It's also possible that the track loosened enough to start slapping the tunnel.....
sickric
New member
Did you clean the skid of all dirt and snow and go over it with a fine tooth comb (so to speak) ? The first thing that came to mind when I read your story is a broken weld maybe in the W arm area ??
First thank you both for the replies.
We did not notice any of the welds being bad. The w-arm felt solid. But will double check to make sure that I did not bust one.
As for the track, Not sure how loose it was but I never racheted. I'm I correct that the correct track tension/looseness is 1" - 1-1/4"? I double check the tension once we get the skid back in.
As for the skid tweaked for degrees: I can only state that when the back wheels are level the front right elevateds a 1/4" inch. Should I try tweaking back level? So that all the wheels roll??
I have not been able to figure out how to post pictures. I have some of before the misshap that I would like to post to my avatar. Give me some time to figure it out.
We did not notice any of the welds being bad. The w-arm felt solid. But will double check to make sure that I did not bust one.
As for the track, Not sure how loose it was but I never racheted. I'm I correct that the correct track tension/looseness is 1" - 1-1/4"? I double check the tension once we get the skid back in.
As for the skid tweaked for degrees: I can only state that when the back wheels are level the front right elevateds a 1/4" inch. Should I try tweaking back level? So that all the wheels roll??
I have not been able to figure out how to post pictures. I have some of before the misshap that I would like to post to my avatar. Give me some time to figure it out.
Some picture posting help
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=40885
Resizing help
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=21630
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=40885
Resizing help
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=21630
Thank you to those who responded.
Found the problem -
a sheared bolt and broken weld on the bottom shock mount. That was hid from view until you took off the bottom off bracket. This was causing the right rail to push out when the shock was to compress. Binding the hyfax and the track causing the drag and vibration.
Got it welded and the skid back together and now I just have to find another bolt. LOL
But hey it could have been worse.
Found the problem -
a sheared bolt and broken weld on the bottom shock mount. That was hid from view until you took off the bottom off bracket. This was causing the right rail to push out when the shock was to compress. Binding the hyfax and the track causing the drag and vibration. Got it welded and the skid back together and now I just have to find another
bolt. LOLBut hey it could have been worse.
sickric
New member
I was wondering what happened to you, Glad you found the problem, thanks for the update. Good luck with your repairs!