So what is the best way to go about checking the drive axle bearing? My 00 Srx has a slight vibration that has me a little nervous. I t has an Expert X and 1 1/4 camo.
Bob
Bob
YAMAHIZAL700
New member
Take a look in the tunnel see if anything is rupping up there. Plus raise the rear enough to run the sled and see if you can figure out where the vibration is coming from. All you need to do is remove airbox and look at the bearing. Best way to tell. My bearing on the clutch side started to desinigrate and I had no Idea. I was cleaning carbs and happen to see it. hope this helps
daman
New member
tear into it and look is about all you can do,a good visual..
Take the skid out and see if you can get the bearing off the end of the drive axle;you'll obviously have to take the speedo drive off the end of the shaft ( 3 12mm nuts ) and this work is done with the secondary off out of the way too.Once it's in your hand you can hold the inner race with the fingers of one hand and roll the outer one around and check for any roughness or notchy feeling as it's rolled around.If the bearing is original then it's most likely due to be replaced and can be a real PITA to get off.
You may be able to take the bearing out without removing the skid by loosing the track off completely but you will most likely need all the room you can get to work.The setscrews in the bearing collar have been know to be difficult to say the least and you'll have to use a pry bar or some such thing to work the bearing off the shaft.Use penetrating oil and lots of it
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You may be able to take the bearing out without removing the skid by loosing the track off completely but you will most likely need all the room you can get to work.The setscrews in the bearing collar have been know to be difficult to say the least and you'll have to use a pry bar or some such thing to work the bearing off the shaft.Use penetrating oil and lots of it
.
chilli
New member
to check it is to change it....
Thanks for the input, I think I will just plan on replacing it. Bob
2strokinit
New member
Bearing
Might as well do a grease cert mod to it, if you already have it apart. Drill a thur hole and tap the chain case for grease cert . I did all but 1 bearing ((by the secondary)) now I can grease the bearings ever couple of trips out.
Might as well do a grease cert mod to it, if you already have it apart. Drill a thur hole and tap the chain case for grease cert . I did all but 1 bearing ((by the secondary)) now I can grease the bearings ever couple of trips out.
kixx007
Member
2strokinit said:
If I read this right, you said to drill a hole into the chaincase, and tap it for a zerk fitting. Whats the benefit of this?
2strokinit
New member
Done right
I added grease zerk's to drive bearings at speedo side, bottom and top gear sides so I can at least grease the things. Yeah , yeah there sealed bearings but I removed the seal/wiper from one side and grease it this way. Bearings should last longer than 3-4000 miles. But like all things it needs to be done right. I did it to my SRX600 and just had ran it in the UP this weekend for 600 miles...! more weekend and Ill grease them again. I also switched over to Syn trans fluid on both machines SRX600-SRX700. The 700 gets the upgrade after this season.
I added grease zerk's to drive bearings at speedo side, bottom and top gear sides so I can at least grease the things. Yeah , yeah there sealed bearings but I removed the seal/wiper from one side and grease it this way. Bearings should last longer than 3-4000 miles. But like all things it needs to be done right. I did it to my SRX600 and just had ran it in the UP this weekend for 600 miles...! more weekend and Ill grease them again. I also switched over to Syn trans fluid on both machines SRX600-SRX700. The 700 gets the upgrade after this season.
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kixx007
Member
I thought the bearings in the chaincase weren't sealed bearings, and were lubricated by the chaincase oil...??
2strokinit
New member
Seals
The inner bearing by the brake caliper is sealed like this...seal-SEALED BEARING ONLY TOWARD THE CHAINCASE SIDE, It sees no lubrication from the chaincase and is open toward the seal side. I drilled so a hole exits between seal and open side of bearing, now it can be greased. The same applies to the bottom bearing by the gear. Now for the speedo side it has a bearing sealed on both side but I used a pick and removed the seal that is in inboard and tapped the bearing carrier cover and greased.
The inner bearing by the brake caliper is sealed like this...seal-SEALED BEARING ONLY TOWARD THE CHAINCASE SIDE, It sees no lubrication from the chaincase and is open toward the seal side. I drilled so a hole exits between seal and open side of bearing, now it can be greased. The same applies to the bottom bearing by the gear. Now for the speedo side it has a bearing sealed on both side but I used a pick and removed the seal that is in inboard and tapped the bearing carrier cover and greased.
blkmax600
New member
2strokinit said:
That doesn't seem to make sense to me, I will have to check it out on my sled.
2strokinit
New member
Right!!
That doesn't seem to make sense to me, I will have to check it out on my sled
Exactly...thats why I did the mod. Explains why they only last 3-4000 miles.The bearings are 93306-20592 ((case bottom)) and 93306-20589 ((speedo side)).
BTW this mod is called the "stinger" mod..MY MOD lol.....I will be drilling my spare case but it probably wont happen until it warms up, or the oem bearings fail on the 700 right away.
That doesn't seem to make sense to me, I will have to check it out on my sled
Exactly...thats why I did the mod. Explains why they only last 3-4000 miles.The bearings are 93306-20592 ((case bottom)) and 93306-20589 ((speedo side)).
BTW this mod is called the "stinger" mod..MY MOD lol.....I will be drilling my spare case but it probably wont happen until it warms up, or the oem bearings fail on the 700 right away.
kixx007
Member
It sounds like you have a bearing in backwards. I am not saying you are wrong, but I am fairly confident the bearings in the chain case are suppose to be lubricated by the oil. At least most of the chain cases I have seen have been this way...
2strokinit
New member
Its right
Nope I have installed them correctly..just the way they came out. I also have the SRX manual on cd and it plainly shows this.
Nope I have installed them correctly..just the way they came out. I also have the SRX manual on cd and it plainly shows this.
2strokinit
New member
From the pdf
Make sure that the bearing seals face towards the
drive chain as shown.
Straight from the cd...
Make sure that the bearing seals face towards the
drive chain as shown.
Straight from the cd...
Seals go towards the gears. Yamaha likes to keep the fine metal filings out of the bearings. At the same time, a small amount of oil will wick past the seal and into the bearing.
I assume you're adding zerks to the general areas shown in the fiche pic? Obviously accounting for ease of access.
I assume you're adding zerks to the general areas shown in the fiche pic? Obviously accounting for ease of access.
2strokinit
New member
Zerk fittings
Yes..I wish I had ran a line from the bottom fitting to a better place as it is I have to remove the pipes to get to it, but better than changing bearings. Also I wouldnt use a power grease gun, too much grease to fast may blow the seal off the bearing, they are very thin seals they put on the bearings.
Yes..I wish I had ran a line from the bottom fitting to a better place as it is I have to remove the pipes to get to it, but better than changing bearings. Also I wouldnt use a power grease gun, too much grease to fast may blow the seal off the bearing, they are very thin seals they put on the bearings.