SRX acceleration help

B

Bufbradwll

New member
Joined
Mar 27, 2008
Messages
35
Age
49
Location
Wisconsin
Hey guys, I just upgraded from a 2001 SXR600 to 2001 SRX700, and man what an upgrade. Thanks for all your help in making that choice!! But I do have one issue. If I hammer it from a dead stop I hear a cluncking noise once or twice and as I get up to speed it never happens again. If I smoothy accelerate into full speed from a dead stop it dos'nt happen. The only think done to this sled is a ripsaw track, and the rear shock were sent to B-Line for re-valve and the shafts extended to match a SXR shock, (that was what I was told any how). The sled runs great, I did a gps run and hit 100+ and the large windshield caved in and broke the 2 front screw (had to shut here down)!! Well I checked the chain tension and it was a little tight, and I also checked the track tension and is about 1" sag with no weight. The issue is I am supposed to leave for a trip in a couple of days and really don't want to take the SXR600, so any help would be great!!!

Thanks
 
Bufbradwll said:
Hey guys, I just upgraded from a 2001 SXR600 to 2001 SRX700, and man what an upgrade. Thanks for all your help in making that choice!! But I do have one issue. If I hammer it from a dead stop I hear a cluncking noise once or twice and as I get up to speed it never happens again. If I smoothy accelerate into full speed from a dead stop it dos'nt happen. The only think done to this sled is a ripsaw track, and the rear shock were sent to B-Line for re-valve and the shafts extended to match a SXR shock, (that was what I was told any how). The sled runs great, I did a gps run and hit 100+ and the large windshield caved in and broke the 2 front screw (had to shut here down)!! Well I checked the chain tension and it was a little tight, and I also checked the track tension and is about 1" sag with no weight. The issue is I am supposed to leave for a trip in a couple of days and really don't want to take the SXR600, so any help would be great!!!

Thanks
Click to expand...
Your track is ratcheting. You should only be able to pull the track down from the middle by 1" . If it hangs 1" without pulling on it, its way too loose.
 
I agree

I just put a 1.6" track in my 98 SRX and it would not rachet on the hard pack but in the deep snow it would rachet under full throttle. I've read here that looser is faster, so I'm slowly tightening it up so it will be as loose as possible without racheting under any conditions. It is suprisingly easy to adjust the track even out on the trail with the right tools. Just make sure to tighten each side evenly! 700
 
Thanks Guys

Well I tightened track 2 1/2 turns and sure enough no more ratching. I made adjustments in 1/2 turn increments, one again thanks for the info. This forum ROCKS.
 
My track on my srx is probably hanging about 1.5 inches WITHOUT weight on it, and i have no ratcheting ever.
 
Yamidude59 said:
My track on my srx is probably hanging about 1.5 inches WITHOUT weight on it, and i have no ratcheting ever.
Click to expand...

This is how I run my tracks and no ratcheting. Much tighter and say goodbye to your hyfax.
 
Yamidude59 said:
My track on my srx is probably hanging about 1.5 inches WITHOUT weight on it, and i have no ratcheting ever.
Click to expand...
I think it depends on the track and the condition of the drivers,etc. Mine didn't rachet at all on the hard pack and it was really biting and under full throttle from a dead stop, but as soon as you filled the track with a foot of loose snow and gunned it it would rachet. I think the looser the better for speed and Hyfax wear. Make sure you don't have any racheting and that the track doesn't slap the tunnel and you're good to go. If you have to keep it super tight to prevent racheting maybe the drivers are worn.
Just my .02 for what it's worth.
700
 
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