layin it all out there...

beekmanSRX

Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2008
Messages
107
Age
40
Location
Cambridge, Ontario
I have an electrical gremlin in my 02 srx.

first the TORS started up on me. it would activate when u would back off the throttle and then come on to it again. I bypassed the tors and the machine ran fine. I tested the sensor on the rack and it seemed to be fine. as for the sensor on the throttle at the thumb. im not sure. The kill switch does not work! im thinking its this sensor.

now im running my machine with the tors bypassed. I dont like doing this but I have a low budget and not even sure what sensor is bad. im gonna double check the tauntness on the throttle cable today. anyways just recently cylinder #3 started to sputter and cut out. if you are running the machine hard it runs well. but when you slow down and rpm's fall she starts to cut out on that cylinder. It's like it is loosing spark or its flooding. I bought a new plug. no change. I checked float heights on carbs. they were fine. now my hands are dirty and the problems are still there. Any input is greatly appreciated. thanks
 
there just switches,may just be dirty ,simple circut,two switch's
then CDI.

there's 3 point's of attack here:

1- Check throttle free play (2mm) adjustment for that is here

2-3 check both switches,make sure there clicking and returning right,the
one up @ the throttle block you'll need to remove the thumb lever pin
remove the thumb lever and look down in you'll see the switch,stick
a small screw driver in and make sure it's moving good in and out..

also you can use a simple volt meter to check the switches out,just a
simple switch that breaks the circuit or completes it..
 
I have the same problem right now with my 01 SRX. I have bypassed the TORS and was going to replace the sensor but they want $180 for the #$%&* thing. I'm not trying to hyjack your thread Beekman but can you let me know how you make out with the testing? I was just assuming that I would replace the sensor and be done with it.
 
tonight I checked both sensors exactly like Daman said. thanks for the tips daman. Both sensors are working fine mechanically and they're getting power. The rack sensor is in spec. throttle freeplay was at 5mm so I tightened it up to 2mm. I will let you know if I find anything out tyler. please do the same in return. hopefully some of the others will chime in. another thing happened tonight. I mentioned earlier that cylinder #3 was cutting out when the engine was falling back down to idle. well once today all cylinders cut out and the machine died. it started right back up but I didnt run it much after that. Im maybe thinkin a rub through somewhere. too many things happening all at once here

A lot of head scratchin goin on...
 
beekmanSRX said:
tonight I checked both sensors exactly like Daman said. thanks for the tips daman. Both sensors are working fine mechanically and they're getting power. The rack sensor is in spec. throttle freeplay was at 5mm so I tightened it up to 2mm. I will let you know if I find anything out tyler. please do the same in return. hopefully some of the others will chime in. another thing happened tonight. I mentioned earlier that cylinder #3 was cutting out when the engine was falling back down to idle. well once today all cylinders cut out and the machine died. it started right back up but I didnt run it much after that. Im maybe thinkin a rub through somewhere. too many things happening all at once here

A lot of head scratchin goin on...

Thanks for the update Beekman!! I haven't had a chance to look at my sled yet because my garage is not heated and it's been really cold. I put 300k on my sled Sunday with the TORS bypassed and it ran good all day. I just want to make sure it is the sensor that is gone and not one of the switches.

Sounds like you my have rub though on your harness some were. I have heard that it could be right above the brake assembly. Hope you find it!!
 
Do you know the part number because this is the one they gave me (5FL858850000) and it is for the sensor $180!! Is this the only part I need or could it be the throttle switch. Again Sorry beekman I will start my own thread if you want me too?
 
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I tested my TORS today and came to the conclusion that it is not the switch at the throttle or the switch on the carbs. I also remove the throttle sensor and notice that it is adjustable. I tried moving it one way and then testing the system again but still bogs when I get on the throttle.

I went on a run last Sunday for about 300km with the TORS bypassed and it ran find all day! I don’t think there is rub through anywhere because I test most of the electrical with a tester.

SO is it the sensor or am I missing something? Help!!

:o| :o| :o|
 
do you ride w/feet in footwells majority of time? check above your left footwell. the wiring harness comes down and plugs into the bottom of your CDI box. i checked main harness under engined and rerouted it and was still bangin head on wall. i had about 7 wires gone above the left footwell. fixed and all is well. i had all kinds of issues til i fixed it. warning lights, cutting out, low power, wouldnt start after being riden in cold and being left in stiff breeze, blah blah blah... did i tell you NO ISSUES? Good luck.
 
onewickedr1 said:
do you ride w/feet in footwells majority of time? check above your left footwell. the wiring harness comes down and plugs into the bottom of your CDI box. i checked main harness under engined and rerouted it and was still bangin head on wall. i had about 7 wires gone above the left footwell. fixed and all is well. i had all kinds of issues til i fixed it. warning lights, cutting out, low power, wouldnt start after being riden in cold and being left in stiff breeze, blah blah blah... did i tell you NO ISSUES? Good luck.

Thanks OneWickedr1! I am going to bite the bullet and pull the harness under the engine and see what I find. It's that to me it doesn't feel like it is a wiring issues because how can a wire under the motor affect my TORS when it is plugged in and bypass it work fine.

Has anyone ever had a bad TORS sensor that they replace and now their sled runs fine???

Why is the sensor adjustable?
 
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the TORS is not adjustable there just a simple switch,,the TPS is adjustible and i have no idea why somone would want to mess with it,,it helps nothing by doing so,,it controls mid range cruse timing thats all..leave it at spec.
 
So I found two broken wires. They were located right behind the steering post and were rubbed right through. they were the two wires that hook up to my TORS. A black and yellow wire, along with a solid brown wire. i bridged and re soldered the two wires back together and my kill switch works again. I still have my 3rd cyclinder cutting out. Im gonna check the left footwell out. I haved checked my coils inside n out and they"re fine. im getting gas, im getting spark ,but no boom. hmmmmmm....
 
beekmanSRX said:
So I found two broken wires. They were located right behind the steering post and were rubbed right through. they were the two wires that hook up to my TORS. A black and yellow wire, along with a solid brown wire. i bridged and re soldered the two wires back together and my kill switch works again. I still have my 3rd cyclinder cutting out. Im gonna check the left footwell out. I haved checked my coils inside n out and they"re fine. im getting gas, im getting spark ,but no boom. hmmmmmm....

Hey beekman, was your sled running ok when the TORS was bypassed or not at all?
 
daman said:
the TORS is not adjustable there just a simple switch,,the TPS is adjustible and i have no idea why somone would want to mess with it,,it helps nothing by doing so,,it controls mid range cruse timing thats all..leave it at spec.

Is the sensor that is at the end of the cabs on the clutch side not the TORS sensor? That is the one that looks adjustable and what does TPS stand for? Sorry I'm new to this sled so not sure where everything is on it yet.
 
No tyler thats not T.O.R.S(throttle override system), that's TPS(throttle position senser).left side,cluch side on your srx.
 


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