gpuvalowski
New member
I have an 2002 SRX 700, for the last 3 years NEVER had a problem
went to start it this year and it ran but seemed a little boggy at low end. So I went and bought new plugs NGK BRE9CS the same one that were always used. I also put 3 fresh gallons of gas in it and about 4 ozs of Sea Foam carb cleaner which a friend of mine told me would help clean the carbs.
So I put the new plugs, fresh gas and sea foam in today, started it and ran great, BUT after running down a 3/4 mile field and letting off the throttle when the tach got down to about 4grand it dropped off and died. NO IDLE but I could start right back up (w/ choke on half) then when running and I turn off choke it would idle then, I would drive a little let off and it would die again.
Also does anyone know what the orange D.C.S. light means on the dash, I couldnt find in the manual and i would be cruising at about 40-50mph get on it and then it will start flashing, but it took 2-3 mile of driving before it did that.
Any help PLEASE!!!
Would greatly appreciate it
went to start it this year and it ran but seemed a little boggy at low end. So I went and bought new plugs NGK BRE9CS the same one that were always used. I also put 3 fresh gallons of gas in it and about 4 ozs of Sea Foam carb cleaner which a friend of mine told me would help clean the carbs.
So I put the new plugs, fresh gas and sea foam in today, started it and ran great, BUT after running down a 3/4 mile field and letting off the throttle when the tach got down to about 4grand it dropped off and died. NO IDLE but I could start right back up (w/ choke on half) then when running and I turn off choke it would idle then, I would drive a little let off and it would die again.
Also does anyone know what the orange D.C.S. light means on the dash, I couldnt find in the manual and i would be cruising at about 40-50mph get on it and then it will start flashing, but it took 2-3 mile of driving before it did that.
Any help PLEASE!!!
Would greatly appreciate it
Look in the Tech Pages for Carb Cleaning 101
I am guessing that your pilots are clogged. Do a very thorough cleaning and pay attention to detail. The carbs are a precision component.
Sea Foam is great stuff when used regularily. However, when used in a neglected fuel system they can easily free up particles which continue along the fuel supply circuits. If they make it all the way through, great. However, the pilot jets are the smallest orifices that these particles will encounter, and very often get clogged.
Check your fuel pump too.
I am guessing that your pilots are clogged. Do a very thorough cleaning and pay attention to detail. The carbs are a precision component.
Sea Foam is great stuff when used regularily. However, when used in a neglected fuel system they can easily free up particles which continue along the fuel supply circuits. If they make it all the way through, great. However, the pilot jets are the smallest orifices that these particles will encounter, and very often get clogged.
Check your fuel pump too.
The DCS light is telling you that the DCS system has encountered vibration signals from the engine that indicate early detonation. This can ocur when obstructions in your fuel system are causing a lean condition.
Clean it all up, and try it again.
I can't stress enough the need to read the Tech articles carefully. It is an easy job, but one that needs to be done in a clean environment, with attention to detail.
Clean it all up, and try it again.
I can't stress enough the need to read the Tech articles carefully. It is an easy job, but one that needs to be done in a clean environment, with attention to detail.
Hi: If you can, get your sled inside a heated garage overnight at room temperature[above freezing]Next day drain all the fuel out of your fuel tank,[while its still warm] refill with fresh Premium with some gas line anti-freeze,NO EXTRA ADDITIVES. I would again change the plugs[I like the NGK Irridium plugs BR9EIX] If it still is acting up you may need to clean your carbs.
For an explanation on your DCS ,google "American Snowmobiler Magazine-2002 SRX DCS" and read the article.
Hope this helps
For an explanation on your DCS ,google "American Snowmobiler Magazine-2002 SRX DCS" and read the article.
Hope this helps
gpuvalowski
New member
800vmax4 said:
what is the best way to drain the fuel, should i sifen or is there a hose I can drain from
Do what they both said but clean the carbs right away not later. Pistons and cylinders are expensive. I have a sphon hose that I use, bout the only way. Maxdlx
gpuvalowski
New member
after I clean the carbs should I put in new plugs or will these be ok. Im thinking thy shoulg be fine but let me know other wise
The only way I know of to get the fuel out is to use a hose and syphon it out...put a block of wood or something under one ski to tilt the sled then syphon the fuel from the low side. I would recommend moving the sled outside to remove the fuel [for safety reasons]. The plugs should be fine to use again. Because the sled has the DCS system ,[that gives it a good measure of protection], I would try it again on a very short test drive before cleaning carbs. If it still is acting up at all then don't ride it until you clean the carbs!
You can take the tank off and turn it upside down 
Of course I only do this when I am taking the sled apart anyway.
Of course I only do this when I am taking the sled apart anyway.
no1chevyboy
New member
n1 clean carbs n2 drain fuel and blow out lines n3 reassemble n4 refill fuel n5 ride
pantherfan89
New member
I am a believer, If you clean the carbs , especially the skinny long jet , that has a .015 hole diameter , It will run like a new machine . It will amaze ya , big difference. This jet cloggs easy being so small . It started after siting overnight 5 pulls from 10 + before .
Its not that hard to clean them, the tech section on cleaning carbs is a huge help .
Its not that hard to clean them, the tech section on cleaning carbs is a huge help .
blue missile
New member
buy a jiggler it's an easy siphoning device and beats sucking gas through a hose.
CLEAN THE CARBS it should be done every year before riding season it is easy enough to do and with todays fuel it should be a preseason job for any and every snowmobile made!!
no1chevyboy
New member
in school i was told gas starts going bad in 15 days! our gas its crap, we have to start making noise so were heard 80% of engines i work on have fuel problems granted its in summer and is more hummid but when your fuel system is vented to atmosphere and your fuel is a water magnet and not driven every day nothing but problems
tedgoesfast
New member
clean clean and clean those carbs.So important to do this i do mine every year even thow they look perfect every time.A little labour can save alot of quid
Wow, good to hear all the believers of cleaning the carbs. It seems like last year we had a bunch of non-believers. Wonder what changed . . .
pantherfan89
New member
For me the change , was education , I followed the tech section step by step and once the job was complete WOW its like I have a new machine . DO YOU BELIEVE , I BELIEVE, BE A BELIEVERDing said:
Maybe it is all the burn downs made believers of them
I am a believer! I was having the same exact problem with low end bogging. then it would die. then start back on half choke. It ran fine on half choke. I Printed Carb Cleaning 101, took the carbs out, cleaned them with the help of the step by step instructions, and the sled ran like a raped ape! I couldn't believe how easy it was to clean them with the help of the tutorial. You can find it in the FAQ's under Carb Cleaning 101
carbs
Whether it is intimidation or just laziness on anyones part for not cleaning the carbs . The carbs need to be cleaned every year before each season. Whether it runs or not it will always run better. There is no short cuts. The carbs have to be removed and throughly cleaned whether you like it or not. It is cheap insurance to eliminate the expensive cost it will be down the road repairing a burned down motor. If it ran fine when you put it away last spring and doesn't run the following winter it is the carbs period. If you clean the carbs and it still does the same thing you didn't clean them good enough. Been there many times.
Whether it is intimidation or just laziness on anyones part for not cleaning the carbs . The carbs need to be cleaned every year before each season. Whether it runs or not it will always run better. There is no short cuts. The carbs have to be removed and throughly cleaned whether you like it or not. It is cheap insurance to eliminate the expensive cost it will be down the road repairing a burned down motor. If it ran fine when you put it away last spring and doesn't run the following winter it is the carbs period. If you clean the carbs and it still does the same thing you didn't clean them good enough. Been there many times.
Last edited: