nastysrx
New member
can i hook up sway bar direct without the links as it lines up alot closer then with the links? any input would be great
I would think that would de-leverage your sway bar making it less effective.
LeeKo
LeeKo
Last edited:
you will probly rip the mounts off the arms. the arms move in and out slightly when the suspension is cycled. just use the stock mounts, if you have widened your front end and are using the stock bar, use a couple extra washers behind the mount to space the sway bar correctly. long travel sway bar is about 3/4in wider as i remember.
nastysrx
New member
the sway bar is wide enough but with the links hooked up the sway bar links are at like a 45 degree angle towards the rear instead of straight up and down under the arm mounts unless you take the link off and use 1 end of it as a spacer and hook to the arm that way
nastysrx said:the sway bar is wide enough but with the links hooked up the sway bar links are at like a 45 degree angle towards the rear instead of straight up and down under the arm mounts unless you take the link off and use 1 end of it as a spacer and hook to the arm that way
The pivot points of the trailing arm, sway bar and radius rods are all in different locations thus the need for the links.
nastysrx
New member
what sounds like the best way?
nastysrx said:what sounds like the best way?
As BetheViper suggests, use spacers between the links and sway bar and between the link and arm.
If you want to see why the links are necassary, unbolt the bottom of both shocks and one side of the sway bar and loosely bolt the sway bar directly to the trailing arm. Now move the suspension through it's entire travel and watch the binding of the loose bolt. Everything is moving in different arcs thus the need for the links.