zx6rr33
New member
Vibrations, Bogging, Track studding
Hey guys,
I need some help and I need it pretty quick. I recently installed an M10 in my 2002 SRX and had some vibration. The ride is a fantastic improvement but I'm concerned with some things. With the sled hanging I only have about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch of sag in the track. It seems to slow down very quickly when I let go of the throttle compared to before. The guy that installed the skid for me tells me that M10's need the track to be quite tight in order to work properly. That directly contradicts what I've read on this sight about M10 track adjustment where everyone seems to say i need 1 to 3 inches of track sag in the middle. The dealer tells me this will cause the track to ratchet. I don't have time to play with it as the trails are two hours away and I left the sled with the dealer again today. I also have a couple of other things that are now not right since the install.
Now once on awhile when I pin the throttle to the bar the sled will rev to 8500 then almost seem like it's bogging down to around 7000 (no lights coming on). When i let go and wait a second then pin it again it seems to jump back up to 8500. But the problem seems to reoccur intermittently. It was warm today 38F but it didn't ever do this before. I've replaced rings and cleaned and adjusted powervalves 1000kms ago so I wouldn't expect it to be that. Could it be the clutching? Do I have to change the clutching for the M10? The dealer is trying to sell me an adjustable weight set (Thundershift) for my primary clutch instead of putting the WWW spring with the 4.5gram rivets that seem to be so popular on this site.
I have also acquired a worsening vibration that begins around 70mph and gets worse the faster I go. I noticed with the M10 the wheels now run directly over my stud heads and the installing dealer says that is the reason I'm experiencing the vibration. Could that be so? This leads me to my next question.
The dealer is going to install a 1.25" ripsaw tomorrow partially for more trail traction with the M10 and partly because he believes it will cure my vibration issue. I'm thinking of having him do a 96 stud pattern with 1.175 Woody's studs as per the recommendation of many on this site. Can I run this setup with the M10 if I need more slack in the track?
As always thank you everyone for the help. This site is a Yamaha owner's savior!!!!
Hey guys,
I need some help and I need it pretty quick. I recently installed an M10 in my 2002 SRX and had some vibration. The ride is a fantastic improvement but I'm concerned with some things. With the sled hanging I only have about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch of sag in the track. It seems to slow down very quickly when I let go of the throttle compared to before. The guy that installed the skid for me tells me that M10's need the track to be quite tight in order to work properly. That directly contradicts what I've read on this sight about M10 track adjustment where everyone seems to say i need 1 to 3 inches of track sag in the middle. The dealer tells me this will cause the track to ratchet. I don't have time to play with it as the trails are two hours away and I left the sled with the dealer again today. I also have a couple of other things that are now not right since the install.
Now once on awhile when I pin the throttle to the bar the sled will rev to 8500 then almost seem like it's bogging down to around 7000 (no lights coming on). When i let go and wait a second then pin it again it seems to jump back up to 8500. But the problem seems to reoccur intermittently. It was warm today 38F but it didn't ever do this before. I've replaced rings and cleaned and adjusted powervalves 1000kms ago so I wouldn't expect it to be that. Could it be the clutching? Do I have to change the clutching for the M10? The dealer is trying to sell me an adjustable weight set (Thundershift) for my primary clutch instead of putting the WWW spring with the 4.5gram rivets that seem to be so popular on this site.
I have also acquired a worsening vibration that begins around 70mph and gets worse the faster I go. I noticed with the M10 the wheels now run directly over my stud heads and the installing dealer says that is the reason I'm experiencing the vibration. Could that be so? This leads me to my next question.
The dealer is going to install a 1.25" ripsaw tomorrow partially for more trail traction with the M10 and partly because he believes it will cure my vibration issue. I'm thinking of having him do a 96 stud pattern with 1.175 Woody's studs as per the recommendation of many on this site. Can I run this setup with the M10 if I need more slack in the track?
As always thank you everyone for the help. This site is a Yamaha owner's savior!!!!
Last edited:
mdbauer62
Member
I can say that the M-10 likes/needs a looser track. With the design and the amount of travel a tighter track will bind up more than the Proaction. I haven't heard of M-10 ratcheting more than any other skid....
As for the bogging, I am not qualified, there are smarter minds on the site.
Same for the studs. I'm sure someone has done it.....
As for the bogging, I am not qualified, there are smarter minds on the site.
Same for the studs. I'm sure someone has done it.....
tedgoesfast
New member
your sit in should be one third of your traval
zx6rr33
New member
Thanks for the responses guys. I decided to go with a 1" ripsaw track instead of the 1 1/4 just to be safe. What size studs (I think I'm going to have to put Magnums in it) should I run with this setup and how many up the middle?
It turns out my belt was very worn so the dealer is replacing that today. He feels that will settle out the vibration significantly. I still have a couple questions though. What could have been causing the motor to spin up to 8500 like normal then bog down to 7000? Once I let go if the throttle and hit it again it would come right back up to 8500. Is clutching likely to cause this type of problem or could it in conjunction with the m10 (track a bit tight) cause this type of problem.
Sorry for all the questions. My riding area is 2.5 hours away (along with the dealer) so I want to try and get it right so I don't wreck this weekend.
It turns out my belt was very worn so the dealer is replacing that today. He feels that will settle out the vibration significantly. I still have a couple questions though. What could have been causing the motor to spin up to 8500 like normal then bog down to 7000? Once I let go if the throttle and hit it again it would come right back up to 8500. Is clutching likely to cause this type of problem or could it in conjunction with the m10 (track a bit tight) cause this type of problem.
Sorry for all the questions. My riding area is 2.5 hours away (along with the dealer) so I want to try and get it right so I don't wreck this weekend.
Does it always rev to 8500 and then bog down to 7000 even after you let off the throttle and hit it again? If so try checking your reeds. Had a problem like that on a Viper and I heard the Viper's are known for it, not sure about the SRX's though.
Millinocket Rocket
New member
1.17" studs with a 1" track
zx6rr33
New member
It doesn't always bog when I punch it. It's about every fifth or sixth time. Will 1.17 magnum studs work with the 1" ripsaw?