this is what somebody did to a srx i picked up. they were to cheap to buy the right tool for the job. i decided to buy another chassie for my project. can you see what is wrong with this picture. there is two spots. they also bypassed the front exchanger by running a long hose from the right side to the collant rail because they put a hole in it. i will be using everthing else on the sled but this. 
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amatosrx said:this is what somebody did to a srx i picked up. they were to cheap to buy the right tool for the job. i decided to buy another chassie for my project. can you see what is wrong with this picture. there is two spots. they also bypassed the front exchanger by running a long hose from the right side to the collant rail because they put a hole in it. i will be using everthing else on the sled but this.
Saws-all city limits... just wow!
daman
New member
Real nice..wtf.
staggs65
Moderator
guess they didn't have a puller
unchained
New member
that's classic
mdbauer62
Member
You know what they say - no brains, no headaches !!!!
Little minds like big hammers !!!!!!
Little minds like big hammers !!!!!!
staggs65
Moderator
i like that one, i'll be sure to use it. lol
ExpertXViper
New member
Question is what would you do if you didnt tighten your primary to spec, and the primary welded itself to the crank?
Im not saying Ive done this, but this is a possible reason on why a saw-z-all was taking to it. Ive had 1 primary thats was a son of b@#$# to get off, thinking the previous owner didnt tighten it to spec. But after a 2ft breaker and a extra body it finally popped, but I also bent my puller I got from Ulmer Racing which is sopposed to be very hard to bend do to the heat treating process.
Im not saying Ive done this, but this is a possible reason on why a saw-z-all was taking to it. Ive had 1 primary thats was a son of b@#$# to get off, thinking the previous owner didnt tighten it to spec. But after a 2ft breaker and a extra body it finally popped, but I also bent my puller I got from Ulmer Racing which is sopposed to be very hard to bend do to the heat treating process.
all i did to get it off was soak it with pb blaster for 30 minutes heated with propane torch filled hole with grease then it came right off. he also was pounding on the primary to get it off and destroyed the movable piece. this guy was just in a hurry and did not know what to do to get it off.ExpertXViper said:
sleddineinar
VIP Member
There was post on this site about packing the hole full of grease before put in the puller, using hydraulics. I'm going to try that at the end of the season, my primary is stuck as well. I've already bent one puller...
BTW, that is some chop job!
BTW, that is some chop job!
unchained
New member
I would cut the clutch off the crank before I cut the chassis apart to pull the engine. Once the engines on the bench you still have to get the welded on clutch off somehow anyway, you might as well ruin just the clutch...ExpertXViper said:
ExpertXViper
New member
unchained said:
What would you use to cut the clutch off the clutch without removing/ruining the belly pan? There isnt a whole lot of room to cut in the direction you would need to, to cut the clutch small enough.
Amato I didnt know you bought the sled with the clutch on and was easily removed. I was merely using that as an example of why someone would do that, I never said it was my way or the correct way.
it's ok i understand some people should not work on thing let the experts do it. i bought the sled knowing it was like this i wanted all of the rest of the parts. i only traded for a 86 dirt bike i had. i have about 600 dollars into 2.5 srxs. i will make 2 good ones one will be a trail rocket and the other will be a pro stock 800 for the ice.ExpertXViper said: