unfortunately winter is at an end and its time to put away the viper i really want to store it the best way possible what are some things to do? it will be in a enclosed snowmobile trailer.
Snowmobile Summer Storage
Start sled and warm it all the way up.
Drain all the gas out of the tank. I use a siphon into a 5 gal gas can. Good rule is if it has a plastic gas tank drain it dry, if it has a steel tank fill it up so it does not rust.
Start sled and run it until it stops, use the enrichener as it starts to die to keep it going.
Attach your fogger lines into the carbs. On the newer triple motors you can go in at the carb boots right into the carburetors. If you have a Phazer you can pull off the small rubber plugs that cover the brass tubs that are on the intake boots, you can then put your fogger lines over the brass tubes. If it’s a twin with the boost bottle you can remove the boost bottle and make two plugs that will fit in place of the bottle and drill a hole in each one for you fogger line.
Start spraying the fogger and start the sled. The sled will run on the fogger. Use the throttle just enough to keep the sled running. Run it until it is smoking well and let the motor slowly die as you are still spraying.
I use silicon spray all over every thing, track, bogie wheels, seat seams, hood straps (leave em unhooked), wiring, hand grips, basically all the rubber stuff.
Grease the suspension. Some people will loosen the track.
To keep the mice out put steel wool or a dryer sheet up the exhaust outlet. Put tape or a dryer sheet over the air box intake, maybe through one under the hood too.
When getting ready for that first ride of the new season, put in fresh gas and pull and pull and pull. After you have all that fogger cleaned out, install new plugs or at least clean the ones that are in there.
I don't think I can stress enough about getting all the fuel out of the system for the summer, I had worked at a dealership several years ago for several years and I cannot even begin to tell you how many carbs I have cleaned because people let the gas set in the carbs all summer. Then they wonder why the sled won’t run right. Same with bikes over the winter. The jets and passages in the small carbs are not very forgiving and the gas goes bad very quickly.
Tod
Start sled and warm it all the way up.
Drain all the gas out of the tank. I use a siphon into a 5 gal gas can. Good rule is if it has a plastic gas tank drain it dry, if it has a steel tank fill it up so it does not rust.
Start sled and run it until it stops, use the enrichener as it starts to die to keep it going.
Attach your fogger lines into the carbs. On the newer triple motors you can go in at the carb boots right into the carburetors. If you have a Phazer you can pull off the small rubber plugs that cover the brass tubs that are on the intake boots, you can then put your fogger lines over the brass tubes. If it’s a twin with the boost bottle you can remove the boost bottle and make two plugs that will fit in place of the bottle and drill a hole in each one for you fogger line.
Start spraying the fogger and start the sled. The sled will run on the fogger. Use the throttle just enough to keep the sled running. Run it until it is smoking well and let the motor slowly die as you are still spraying.
I use silicon spray all over every thing, track, bogie wheels, seat seams, hood straps (leave em unhooked), wiring, hand grips, basically all the rubber stuff.
Grease the suspension. Some people will loosen the track.
To keep the mice out put steel wool or a dryer sheet up the exhaust outlet. Put tape or a dryer sheet over the air box intake, maybe through one under the hood too.
When getting ready for that first ride of the new season, put in fresh gas and pull and pull and pull. After you have all that fogger cleaned out, install new plugs or at least clean the ones that are in there.
I don't think I can stress enough about getting all the fuel out of the system for the summer, I had worked at a dealership several years ago for several years and I cannot even begin to tell you how many carbs I have cleaned because people let the gas set in the carbs all summer. Then they wonder why the sled won’t run right. Same with bikes over the winter. The jets and passages in the small carbs are not very forgiving and the gas goes bad very quickly.
Tod
mod-it
Member
Aside from the great tips from Tod, I also like to remove the clutch belt, and lift the track off the ground (to keep from having a permanent bend in the 2" paddles, may not apply to your sled). And as far as the pull, pull, pull at the start of the next season, here's a great tip: Before you put the clutch belt back on the next season, and after putting some fresh fuel back in it, rotate the primary clutch by hand back and forth. This will make the mechanical fuel pump re-prime the carbs, and save you a ton of pulling. I just heard this during this season, and it worked great when I cleaned my aunt's carbs in the middle of the season this year. Two pulls and it was running.
srxbully
New member
from what i have heard it's not good to leave them in a enclosed trailer unless you can vent the trailer some how.something about hummidity and heat being trapped in the trailer.
Red_RobbinHood
New member
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2005
- Messages
- 26
Agreed on not storing it in the trailer. Without proper ventilation and the build-up of humidity, i heard you can cause alot of problems down the road. Makes sense if you think about it....
daman
New member
As long as you fog the engine storing it in a trailer if fine,fog and stabil are
a must!!!.
a must!!!.
drain all the gas and put stabil in it how much stabil and i also bought stabil engine fogger
srxbully
New member
now i may be wrong because like i stated i only heard this...but even if you stabil it wont you get corrosion with the moisture & humitity in a enclosed trailer?daman said:
hereismylife
Active member
Well here is what I do but still need to clean the carbs out of the beginning of the season. The pilots always clog the rest are good. I run it out of gas and add sea foam throug the gas line till it starts smoking. If you can't get to the gas line you can take the air box off and spray into the carbs. I still believe getting it into the bowls makes a big difference.
You can do what the others guys are telling you. Just make sure the engine is fogged.
I did find out on my one sled I had to replace the cylinders and I did not summerize it because I was going to rip it down during the summer. Anyhow I found about 6 table spoons in the crank case.
I hope this helps
You can do what the others guys are telling you. Just make sure the engine is fogged.
I did find out on my one sled I had to replace the cylinders and I did not summerize it because I was going to rip it down during the summer. Anyhow I found about 6 table spoons in the crank case.
I hope this helps
Dave M
New member
If you run the sled out of gas....what good does the sab-il do ?? Keep the gas fresh in the can ??
xviperx7 said:
If you're draining the carbs/fuel system (which is what I would recommend - using the choke to run it dry), you won't need any stabil. With the fuel in the bowls being pre-mix, I have not found any issues with dry corrosion but pull and inspect next fall anyhow.
Fogging the engine and spraying everything down with silicone should help to avoid any issues with moisture, but I think I'd open up the trailer now and again to help air things out.
Had a buddy store his sled in a trailer over the summer and although he didn't have issues with corrosion (sprayed everything/fogged), his seat turned into a growing science project with mold growing from the stiching. It was a Poo with the plywood seat back which held a lot of moisture so your mileage may very.
...I too loosen the track, pull the belt and leave it on my lift (off the ground)and if you planned to rebuild the shocks, nows the time to do it.
daman
New member
Every year my PZ is stored in my enclosed trailer,i fog it stabil it grease it spray the motor down with WD or some other protectant clean it up and forget it,never had a problem,i've stored many sleds over the years in a enclosed trailer never lost a crank yet,but you gota fog it issrxbully said:
the key and i never miss doing that. it's all in the prep.
Last edited:
pup55
New member
daman do you drain your tank then add stabil,ordo you keep the tank full and add stabil?
daman
New member
i fill half full with premium fuel and a double dose of stabil,gas stays in the carbs too.
pup55
New member
When you pull the carbs to clean after the summer and before your first ride is there any fuel in the carbs or has it all evaporated? I assume you drain the fuel tank and add new fuel before your first ride? Do add the fuel after you fog the engine?
daman
New member
,,,,,,pup55 said:
pup55
New member
Thanks daman
If you're draining the fuel, why would you condition it with Stabil?
I used to use premix in my Polaris' when preping them for summer and then drain what was left. With my Yamaha, the bowls are already filled with premix thus when I run them dry, they're still left with a coating of oil which helps avoid dry corrosion.
The only products I use for storage is fogging oil and metal protector (silicone).
I used to use premix in my Polaris' when preping them for summer and then drain what was left. With my Yamaha, the bowls are already filled with premix thus when I run them dry, they're still left with a coating of oil which helps avoid dry corrosion.
The only products I use for storage is fogging oil and metal protector (silicone).