Heel clicker tuning

staggs65 said:
if youre talking a puller you can try the hydraulic method with grease (or water) and a bolt, there was a post on it a few weeks back
no i have a puller ,"grunt tool" is for removing the spider
 
norwegian said:
Weird that you seem to hit a wall then. Do you have the first or second gen heelclickers in your sled? The difference is that you have to notch the sheave if you have the 1st gen (but you probably knew that)
i'm pretty sure i have the second gen weights (i havn't notched anything ) just filed the heel washers. After speaking to (Dave ) (profstrong on here)who was running the other SRX he's thinking it may be the bushing in the cap and in the Sheave i was reffering to earlier .I'm not sure ,i am going to replace them regardless .It only does this after i complete a few good runs first(warmed up ) not that i run it cold ,but we were running run after run after run with little time or no time between runs.His stays the same I may start a thread on this phenomenom itself
 
Seems like you have similar problems as bluemonster1 had when his clutch components were worn
 
my clutch parts are all replaced and had a good season running with the SRX.Didn't get to use my HC's,but still got sled up to 118 on speedo on a + 7 Celsius day in April.Most of the River was bare ice,took a big chance opening the sled up on that ice,but did 7 - 1 mile runs with the same results.Clutch's were running mint and cool. There is a difference when the clutch's are worn,as I learned a season prior to last. Was not getting anywhere,so in the summer of 2008 I tore the clutch's open and replaced parts.Spent $600 in parts for 3 primaries and 2 secondary clutch's.Was worth every dime because last season srx RAN GREAT in the clutch department,as it should.You live and learn. :o| loll
 


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