01 SRX skid questions

[MySX700R]

I gernaded my "W" arm the last time out and have since got a brand new one that I am going to have made sturdier before installing. The right rubber bumper was missing and the left strap eyebolt broke too, so there was a lot of flex going on. I sent both skid shocks to Pioneer Performance to be rebuilt and revalved as needed. Rear shock is installed already and seems good. My first question is what bushings on the arm should I replace? The 4 bottom ones are for sure toast. I have not taken the old stuff out of the front of the old "W" arm yet. Could I reuse the rod that goes through the front of the arm with fresh bushings?

Question two. I have a set of Bender transfer arms that I would like to install, but for some reason they have 3 spacers on one side, and one on the other. One also has more thread showing on the one with 3 spacers. How should I set this up before I install them on my skid? See pictures below.

Question 3. I am 275 pounds plus gear. What would be a good starting point for shock settings before I put the skid back in? I have the FRA on Lower (stiff setting). Front shock seems to have zero preload as the spring will just about rattle in my hand with 2 7/16" threads showing. The rear shock has 2 9/16" of thread showing. The strap eye bolts have 1" of threads showing.

Thanks in advance!

 

[MySX700R]

Any one? Answer one question or all. The Bender rods are the biggest question. Should I have one washer forward and behind on each rod, or two forward, or ??? I have to assume that both rods need to be equal. How does one adjust the rods on the trail? Do you need to loosen the set screw down below before cranking on the top of the rod?

OK, I figured out that I have to pull down on the gnurled part and twist one turn at a time. Can't see any movement on the bench.

I am also going to assume that the set screw on the top one pictured will need to be loosened and that collar moved down to even with the end of the threads and re tightened.

I wish I had the instructions for this. I have not heard back from my e-mail to Bender Racing yet either.

 

[700]

Can't help you with the setup or the bender rods but that front shaft is aluminum and wears quite rapidly. pull it out and see if the ends are badly worn where the bushings ride. The good news is you can buy the rod and both bushings for $47 from a dealer.

 

[MySX700R]

Can't help you with the setup or the bender rods but that front shaft is aluminum and wears quite rapidly. pull it out and see if the ends are badly worn where the bushings ride. The good news is you can buy the rod and both bushings for $47 from a dealer.

I pulled the front shaft out and there is slight wear in the bushing area. Almost looks like fresh bushings on this shaft last year when the "W" arm was rewelded.

I messed with the Bender transfer rods too and got both sides equal. What I thought was three washers was actually what people have been calling three lines. Seems one side was cranked about 4 turns or 1/4" shorter for some reason. Now to figure out how to install them....

 

[MySX700R]

Any tips for removing the guide wheels from the bar that the top of the transfer rods are connected to? Seems like they are just pressed in position and don't turn very well on the bushings. I have found one thread that mentions a heat gun and beating on the shaft with a hammer and 2X4.

Do these guide wheels need to turn smooth, or does the shaft do the turning? Seems like guide wheel #38 in the track suspension 1 microfiche should have a needle bearing in it, or am I all wrong? Thanks in advance!

 

[MySX700R]

I removed the bottom of the transfer rod from the skid and tapped the transfer rod until the guide wheel came off the center axle shaft. It seems like the bearings in with 7" guide wheels are no good. I have to get a C clip pliers and see if I can round up some replacement bearings. I see some numbers on the bearing: 6205 RK, so I assume they are replaceable. Whole wheel assembly is $20, so the bearings can't be all that much right?

Good news is the Bender Rods look like they will swap right in when I get the bearings ready to go. What next?

 

[MySX700R]

Post #100. Have to see if I am still a Mini member (sounds bad)! Almost seems like I am talking out loud. Senior member stock....Yeah Baby!

I got one of the 6205 bearings pressed out and spare one pressed back in. I have the "W" arm at the welders right now getting gusseted up. I'll have to prime and paint the snot out of it when I get it back.

 

[maxdlx]

Send it to weltracer in Keiler Wi and get it powder coated. Maxdlx

 

[MySX700R]

Send it to weltracer in Keiler Wi and get it powder coated. Maxdlx

What kind of cost might that be? Would that help in any way to prevent future breaks, or just make it prettier? I have the time right now.....

 

[Stephfg]

regarding the bearings, I remove the circlip and knock the wheel off using a rubber mallet or a 2X4. to get the bearing off I use a punch and hammer (it's no good anyway). to get the new bearing on, I saw a friend of mine use a socket and a bolt that he bolted into the shaft, which pushed the bearing into place (the socket between the bolt and bearing). 6205 bearings are quite common, you can get cheap ones for $4-6 at the dealers, and really good ones (SKF, FAG, NTN) for $10 at a bearing shop. I think it's worth getting the good ones since you won't have to pull the skid out as often.

 

[Whammy]

that C clip lets you remove the wheel, and then use bearing puller to remove the bearing,,(if its been on for awhile it will get bent any way you try to remove it).. Make sure those transfer rods are the same lenght as your old ones, or you will have to put them in the holes located behind the stock ones... Found that out the hard way,, with dealer installing them..(bent suspension components)..

 

[MySX700R]

that C clip lets you remove the wheel, and then use bearing puller to remove the bearing,,(if its been on for awhile it will get bent any way you try to remove it).. Make sure those transfer rods are the same length as your old ones, or you will have to put them in the holes located behind the stock ones... Found that out the hard way,, with dealer installing them..(bent suspension components)..

The transfer rods are the correct length, so I am OK there. I had a mechanic at work press the old ones out with an arbor press. Made it look very easy. I will make sure to get some of the better quality bearings from a local industrial supply company Monday.

 

[MySX700R]

I went to put the Bender transfer rods in place and the adjustment body of the transfer rod rubs on the 7" guide wheel and I still have over 1/8" more shaft I have to put the wheel over. To top it off, the bottom of the transfer rod is almost 1/8" narrower than the old one. I could always find a couple of washers to space the bottom out, but the top wheel has me scratching my head. The wheel needs to run on a certain plane, so shimming it might not be the right answer. Here are some pictures that I hope will explain better. Bender never did return my e-mail either.

Top picture is the stock rod on the other side, the bottom 2 are trying to show the Bender rod rubbing on the guide wheel and the smaller bottom eye.

Am I missing parts? I think it's time for another pair of rods.......

 

[MySX700R]

I took the Bender transfer rod off and put the stock one back on. Guess I need to swap for a set that works or sell these. I was so looking forward to running them! Maybe they will fit my SX700R.

 

[Stephfg]

I've never examined rods other than the stock ones, but couldn't you flip them around and install them that way?

I emailed Bender in February to ask about a clutch kit and they haven't responded yet.

 

[MySX700R]

I've never examined rods other than the stock ones, but couldn't you flip them around and install them that way?

I emailed Bender in February to ask about a clutch kit and they haven't responded yet.

I was going to say nope..... perfectly symmetrical, but after looking at it closer I have a feeling that you are right. I had a 50/50 chance to get it right and guessed wrong. I should be able to find a couple of washers to make the bottom eye of the rod work. Instructions would have helped a lot! I will try one more time after I get the last guide wheel bearing changed.

 

[sasksrx]

I took a look at that picture you put up, my rods are different, I have more shaft length between the Knurled cylinder and the eye hole up top, so my cylinder comes up just short of the 7" idler. Maybe you can put them upside down? Maybe yours are built to be put in that way, they are different than mine, which is weird since they are both Benders.

 

[MySX700R]

I took a look at that picture you put up, my rods are different, I have more shaft length between the Knurled cylinder and the eye hole up top, so my cylinder comes up just short of the 7" idler. Maybe you can put them upside down? Maybe yours are built to be put in that way, they are different than mine, which is weird since they are both Benders.

The eye holes are two different sizes. They can only go knurled side up. I bet things are going to be real tight even if I flip them around.

 

[sasksrx]

I don't know what to say man, those rods of yours are different than mine...if they don't fit properly, I wonder what they are for? Mine worked on my original skid and on the XTC skid I put on, which I would guess would pretty much be the same as your SXR skid.

 

[MySX700R]

I don't know what to say man, those rods of yours are different than mine...if they don't fit properly, I wonder what they are for? Mine worked on my original skid and on the XTC skid I put on, which I would guess would pretty much be the same as your SXR skid.

Your transfer rods on a 1999 are about 2 inches longer.....I think they shortened them up 2000 - 2002 and used the front hole in the skid. If I can't get them to work on this sled, maybe I can swap someone for another style that uses the stock lower rod.