Inside a 2001 SRX with 23,600 kms (14,750 miles)

Stephfg

Stephfg

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Joined
Jan 20, 2009
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335
Location
Timmins Ontario
hi guys,

I took the top end apart last night for the first time on my SRX to change seals, gaskets and rings. It has been burning some antifreeze on some rides. Rides where I worked it harder, I'd get back home after 250 kms and the coolant was low about 3/4 inch in the reservoir.

take a look at the pictures and let me know what you think.

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=89627&id=719315215&l=11fe04de27

there's some blow by, so rings were due. I expected more carbon build up in the domes and on the crown. It's running rich. pistons and cylinders look good, but I will measure them. The top centre petals on the reeds have a small chip.

What's the lifespan of the Vforce reeds? I've heard that they lose their memory much quicker than OEM. Anyone use Boyesens?

thanks
 
Did you check compression before pulling apart? Just curious. Have a 97 vmax4 never touched with 11,000 miles and plan on pulling apart this summer.
one cylinder at 100 rest around 115.
 
if you don't have any engine mods to your engine, just get some OEM reed petals. you have a ton of piston wash going there. i don't think that its all from the rich jetting. if you said it was burning anti-freeze, than some of that wash is from the anti-freeze washing the oil off the piston crown. yeah, you were getting blow-by.

i forgot to tell you, to not waste your money on v-force's, as they don't last and aren't worth the $, especially on a stock motor.
 
yes I did. I poured a capful of oil in each cylinder first. #1 was close to 120lbs, #3 was about 115lbs and #2 was near 145 lbs - I probably put more than a capful of oil in that one! I tried #2 again and got around 120. I wish I had electric start when I check compression!
 
mopar1rules said:
if you don't have any engine mods to your engine, just get some OEM reed petals. you have a ton of piston wash going there. i don't think that its all from the rich jetting. if you said it was burning anti-freeze, than some of that wash is from the anti-freeze washing the oil off the piston crown. yeah, you were getting blow-by.

i forgot to tell you, to not waste your money on v-force's, as they don't last and aren't worth the $, especially on a stock motor.
Click to expand...

thanks Mopar1rules. no mods on the engine, although it's tempting to get it ported with it all in parts!
 
I ran Yamalube for the first 3 seasons or so, then I went to Legend ZX2R (mineral based synthetic additives) which was highly rated, but really gummed up my powervalves and lead to pullthroughs. I ran it for 3 or 4 seasons then I changed to Blue Marble at the beginning of 2008 season. Blue Marble doesn't seem to gum up the valves. NOTE: I now clean my valves twice per season, which I didn't do before. Had I done that with the Legend oil, maybe I'd still be running it. I don't know.

It use approx 1 litre per 70 litres of gas, so 70 to 1 ratio - always has.
 
Your motor looks real good for all those miles.
I run the boyesen rad valves in my viper.
I never really noticed a difference from the stock reed valves performance wise.
Mine have been in for over 3000 miles and appear to be holding up well
In my opinion it is a lot of money to spend not to notice much difference.
 
As far as the O-ring on your cylinder being out of place I'd say that most likely happened when you pulled the head off.If the O-ring was like that when you were running it I'd have to believe that you would have been going through a lot more anti freeze plus the it would probably have been split or at the very least flattened out.
 
LOL Mopar! I agree.

Fourbarrel, good point about the o-ring coming out of place when I removed the head. The other signs that lead me to believe it's #3 are the scratches on the back of the piston skirt, and the clear wash on the back (intake side) of the crown. #2 seems to have a similar wash pattern, but it's not clear. My theory is that after I run it hard and stop the engine, the pressure in the cooling system becomes greater than the pressure in the cylinder. When the engine is running, there's enough pressure to keep the coolant out. That's the only thing I can think of. All bolts were still tight but perhaps the torque was off.

any thoughts?
 
It is also possible for the water pump seal to be leaking. If this seal leaks, it provides a direct path for the coolant to flow into the crankcase.
 
There are 2 water pump seals. Its usually the inner one that leaks. Its best to pull the motor to replace them or you will be standing on your head in the belly pan trying to replace them.
 
rx1jim said:
It is also possible for the water pump seal to be leaking. If this seal leaks, it provides a direct path for the coolant to flow into the crankcase.
Click to expand...
X2

I would suggest since you have it apart go for the"Full Meal Deal"..change the water pump + shaft seals and bearings. I have mine apart right now[10,000 miles] and I am basically replacing anything that could cause future grief.
I don't think head/cylinder torque or gaskets are the issue here or you would most likely be showing an external anti freeze leak as well. As previously stated, if the O ring was out of place it would have been pinched + probably cut in peices.
 
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Thats a ton of miles,check pistons for max wear spec you may be there,if it were me she'd be getting new OEM pistons,rings and crank seals, WP seals get er back together and enjoy it for another 14 thou.

thanks for posting ;)!
 
it's been back together for a few months now but I might change those seals before we get too much snow. That shaft goes into the crankcase near the mag side, so that could explain why there was more wash on that piston only. thanks.
 
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