Need help with drivers

[Sledsquatch]

Hi folks,

I searched for 7t drivers in the tech section and it came with size suggesstions, but I couldn't find anything about putting them on. I have ordered some 7t drivers from Kimpex at my local dealer for my 1995 Vmax600DX. I have a Camo Touring 3/4" track and it is currently rubbing on the front of the upper exchangers. I am needing to stud my track this year(144-160) so I will need protectors and a smaller driver set. Kimpex shows only one set of 7t drivers for a Yamaha, no model or year reference, so we ordered in one to see if it would fit. Well, the driver seems to be quite a bit smaller on the axle dimension. Like alot, possible an eighth of an inch. So, they are going to press it on for me, but, do we worry about this? Is it normal for them to be that much smaller? How do we press them on? Do we need to heat them up first?

Sorry for all of the questions, I still have more, but I do not want to write a novel. Any help would be amazing.

Thanks in advance

 

[snowdad4]

your track rub doesnt make sense. that sled should have came with a .92(7/8, 19mm) lug track and 9 tooth drivers. i have put 1 1/2" tracks under them and only drpped to 8 tooth drivers. something else going on in there? 95 should have been the first year of the driveshaft upgrade from 1" to 1 1/16. as for the uncertanty on the fitment, contact kimpex. they are kinda shitty to to work with and i have never been impressed with their parts or commitment to warranty, but before you press them on, make sure they are for your shaft size, once pressed, no going back. most drivers spec a fit to 1' or 1 1/16 shaft. it will look to small at first, but dont underestimate the power of hydraulics. make sure the drivers have a metal band on the collars or dont waste time or money. kimpex drivers usually mushroom a bit so once pressed they will distort and you will have to press the opposite direction to correct this. there is chapter one of your novel, chapter two awaits.

 

[Sledsquatch]

The good news is the drivers have the metal collars on them. I will call Kimpex.

 

[Sledsquatch]

Well after calling Kimpex, the guy said talk to someone else....



...so I made him dig a little further and we discovered that shaft size I have is 1 1/16", the sprocket I have(factory 9 tooth) are 1.03.0". The one I bought is 1.060". So this being said it should fit. Maybe a little to well. I am going to have them pressed on.

What a difference in diameter the 2 teeth make. I should be able to get a nice 1.5" track in there with studs after.

snowdad4, my tunnel has heat exchanges the whole length of the tunnel, this is what the track is rubbing on, you can see black rubber on the exchangers. Thanks for the reply and the heads up on things.

 

[Mysledblows]

snowdad4, my tunnel has heat exchanges the whole length of the tunnel, this is what the track is rubbing on, you can see black rubber on the exchangers. Thanks for the reply and the heads up on things.

Changing drivers isn't going to solve a clearance issue along the top of the tunnel. At least not all of it. You will need to drop the suspension mounts some to gain the clearance you need.

 

[snowdad4]

Changing drivers isn't going to solve a clearance issue along the top of the tunnel. At least not all of it. You will need to drop the suspension mounts some to gain the clearance you need.

exactly as i stated earlier. if i can run 1.5 tracks without clearance issues, something else is happening. how about worn/ sacked springs, used up shocks, any other worn components. as for the drop brackets, if i remember correctly, about 1" is what i was dropping at the rear scissor point in tunnel. i still have one prototype that could easily be copied. havent ran the pogos for awhile. man, i miss those days!

 

[Sledsquatch]

I have abrand new M-10 Master suspension and it is installed as to somewhat specification, the somewhat oart is I was worried about the clearance and I actually installed the suspension lower out of the tunnel. I have to have front limiter strap in 3 holes to keep all of the track on the ground. If I let the strap all out, the front actually lifts the whole front end of the sled off of the ground and it teeters on the front of the rails. I have only 12" of track on the ground. So I tighten up the limiter and the track flattens out, I get good ski pressure, I have great travel, its all good. Now, I installed my new track 2 seasons ago, when I installed my new suspension 1 season ago, I noticed my exchangers have track rub only at the first 12" of the top exchanger. so I know the issue was with the front of the tunnel, rear has tonnes of clearance. Now, since I have installed my new M-10, I believe I have solved the track rub issue, but...it is hard to tell due to the black markings already on the exchanger. If I look down the tunnel, there is clearance, but not alot. I will try to take some pictures of the suspension in the tuneel, it is currently out of the sled so I could remove the drie axle and do some tweaks to the suspension. I will throw it in there quickly this weekend without the track so you guys can see.

The other reason for dropping teeth is for a little more umph in take off. I am going to lose a lot of top end, but I trail ride, no lakes here. I am going to be building another sled soon for top speed. I want to find an older sled and drop in a thundercat motor. Also, if I look at the front exchanger and the track, there was only about 1/8"-3/16" gap from the track edge to the fins. Too close for my taste. I may have my track set to loose, but I went by my M-10 set up guide step by step and made sure I had the proper sag set up.