Coolant Leak

E

Essarex

New member
Joined
Dec 1, 2007
Messages
56
Location
Canton, Michigan
I'm looking for some insight into a coolant leak I have with my 02 srx. I recently had the engine out to replace the crank, and since the reinstallation, it has been leaking.

The leak is ever so slight, such that it is impossible to locate. It will lose about a dime-sized amount every week. At first I thought it was residual coolant from the rebuild, finding its way through a chassis seam to the garage floor. I flushed the chassis with fresh water to thoroughly rinse any remains away, and then let the pure water drain and evaporate. After a few weeks, the coolant reappeared. I then replaced the waterpump seals, and there was a milky appearance to both seals. So I figured I had it solved. Wrong. It is still flowing a small amount, again, about dime-sized.

The problem is that you cannot see that kind of leak to ID it, and if you tear the motor out, you end up splashing enough coolant into the chassis, no matter how careful you are, to completely camoflauge the leak.

Does anyone have any advice?

Jim from Canton
 

Jim, Spread some white paper towels around under the motor and under coolant connectors. For that matter lay them everywhere and use the whole damn role if needed. Then you will see green somewhere and slowly sneak up on the leak.
 
If you need a pressure tester i live in Redford and i can bring one over to your house i only live 15 min away from canton.
 
weep hole

Is it coming out of your water pump weep hole? If so you need to put 680 locktite on you impeller splines as they are probably worn. Start it up and it should leak faster if so thats your problem.
 
Air pressure

I usually put about 10 lbs of air to the system....you'll find it right away. I do it by shutting off the carb heaters, pulling the tube from the coolant rail over by the shut off valve and hook the air up to it. It's quick and easy and 10-15lbs should do it.

Madmatt
 
Madmatt said:
I usually put about 10 lbs of air to the system....you'll find it right away. I do it by shutting off the carb heaters, pulling the tube from the coolant rail over by the shut off valve and hook the air up to it. It's quick and easy and 10-15lbs should do it.

Madmatt
Click to expand...

I haven't actually looked at the cap on my SRX, but most automotive applications have the pressure relief (in psi) stamped on the cap. Usually between 12-16 lbs. You wouldn't want to go much beyond what's stamped on the cap. Using regulated shop air like Matt suggests should work just as well as a hand pump tester like the one I offered. Plus you'd have the cap in place for over-pressure relief.

Pump it up!
 
Thanks to all for the help. It is hard to see if it is weeping thru the water pump hole when running due to the smoke of two stroke combustion. I didn't think of putting pressure into the system manually. That will allow me to inspect closely, using paper towels to pin point it. I looked at that spline and was suspicious of it, even though there is a rubber washer on the center bolt. However, that rubber washer is the only seal I did not buy new. Maybe that's it,,,,,,

TSU Filmz, snomofo, either one of you or both are welcome to lend me the tester. That is a great gesture. Redford is closer to me than Anchor Bay, so that probably will be easier. Let me know. I always am positive about meeting fellow Totallyamaha-ers.

Jim
 
You can put your finger on the weep hole to check for coolant. You should always replace the rubber seal on the impeller bolt which needs to be torqued to spec. When the spline is worn on the shaft and inside the impeller the impeller actually wobles and coolant leaks past and goes out the weep hole. Locktite 680 fills the gap. Even new I use locktite.
 
Looks like TSU would be in better shape to help out. If things fall through, let me know and I can come out next week after work. I must warn you that the long drive from Dearborn to Anchor bay via Canton could make a guy awful thirsty.

I'll throw the tester in the truck Monday morning just in case. That will ensure that you'll have it fixed before then.
 
TSU, many thanks, I'll be home Saturday night. My cell number is 248 953 3269.
Snomofo, I'll keep that in mind, but at any rate, seeing we all live in the same area, we need to get a ride or two in this season. Do you guys go to the Novi show in Nov?
 
Essarex said:
TSU, many thanks, I'll be home Saturday night. My cell number is 248 953 3269.
Snomofo, I'll keep that in mind, but at any rate, seeing we all live in the same area, we need to get a ride or two in this season. Do you guys go to the Novi show in Nov?
Click to expand...

Haven't been to the snowshow for a year or two, but was planning to go this year. I'd be up for a ride this year.
 
Did you find where? I had a leak this winter too. It was the hose going from the water pump to the reservoir is leaking. It cracked where it is zip-tied to the engine. In the long run it still managed to rub and create a 2 inch gap in the hose.

Popular for the SRX
 
Again, thanks to all for the feedback. I found the leak using the paper towel technique. It was weeping out of the waterpump seal bypass hole, which may not be a surprise to anyone, except that I had just replaced the two seals and impeller because it was leaking originally. So, somehow I did not do it right, or the mechanical seal was bad in the wrapper. I don't think it was seeping throught the impeller splines, because they were seized to the point that I needed to apply heat to slide the impeller off.

Is there a way to verify the new mechanical seal before pounding it in to the case?

I have had machines in the past that used 2 rubber seals with the garter spring on the outside OD of the shaft hole, instead on 1 rubber seal and 1 mechanical seal.

I'm thinking of going to this arrangement because it seems easier to verify, although it may not last as long.

thoughts?

Jim
 
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