2000 sxr 700 mods

that's exactly the explanation i was looking for! 10/10. so now the set up. any one have any setups? or links to set ups that they like or prefer?
 
How is your sled set up now? Stock pipe, triples? You cqan look in the Tech section there are some good set ups there. You are going to mainly add weight to the fly weights and change the primary spring and possibly the secondary spring depending what is installed now. Give us some info on whatcha got.
 
Stock as far as Iknow. I am planing on making some reed spacers, and jetting down a little, or according to how the clutch is set up. Not looking to do any head work like thinning the gasket, might bore the silencer. An airbox mod if that does much. I want to keep it reliable. Its a 2001 btw, 300w ignition system if that makes a diffrence.
 
Reed spacers will help the mid range burble a bunch. I am just not the type to do an airbox mod, so hopefully someone else will/can chime in. Gander in the Tech Section for ideas of what people did for clutching, Try to keep your engagement speed close to where you are now(stock) as if you need to dig out of being stuck a hard hitting clutch will only cause you to have to dig more as your sled will rebury itself... plus by using Yamaha parts to clutch your sled you wont have to buy an expensive aftermarket kit that you may not like the results of.

There is a TON of things that can be done that will not hurt any form of reliability, it will just take a little time to get it dialed in to where you are happy with it and it will run strong.

The gearing mod mentioned a few posts above will net very decent and noticeable results and its not too expensive.
 
set up im running for trail performance,better acc. and backshift

single layer headgasket
reed stopper notch
bored muffler
stock jetting
needles at 3.25
22/40 gears
stock weights-4.5 in 1st hole-3.1 in tip
3 engagement shims
51/43 helix
 
roudyroy1 said:
go to taller gearing, with out touching the clutch? all new to clutching so i will bombard with questions.
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yeah, you can do that. you'll still gain some and it wont hurt your clutching, and we can discuss more on the subject to get you "warm and fuzzy" what works and feels good for you as there is no black and white wrong or right.

NOT to sound like a smart a$$, think about it, how does a bolt turn easier, with a short wrench or a longer one??? As stated above these sleds were over geared from the factory for insurance purposes to the dealers, plus YAMAHA has all sorts of riders to contend with, know what I mean, "we" performance minded more aggressive riders don't mind and can control a sled that is more on the ragged edge....
 
Congrats on the sled you will love it. very reliable. in the stock form your looking at about 114hp. The easiest way to jump up in power is triple pipes there are a few different brands ranging from a 22-25hp gain. You will definitely have to clutch it they over rev from the factory, you will want to keep your peak rpms around 8700. Don't bother with aftermarket reeds they don't give you any more HP they give you a crisper throttle response and that's it. Reed spacers are a must you can buy some for a srx and they work just fine. In my opinion don't do the air box mod I have it done and it can get temperamental at times. Drop a tooth on your top gear and it will help wake her up. Good luck and remember have fun and be safe.
 
roudyroy1 said:
with taller gearing would acceleration not suffer? what am i missing?
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Your sled came with 22/39(1.77) gearing, as Chris700Redhead says go to a 21/39(1.857) - still a 70 link chain - or change to 20/39(1.95)gear ratio, The bad part is you will have to go to a 68 link chain when switching from a 22/39 to a 20/39. The sled came from the factory over geared and if you go towards the 2/1 ratio you start to get into where the gearing isn't working against you it will work for you. Most people have the perception that if you go with taller gearing that it will slow you down. If you go with gearing that is too tall/small(more towards 1/1) for the engine to push/pull you will actually go slower and not faster as the engine doesn't make enough horsepower/torque to pull the load - kinda like taking off in 2nd gear in a car. With a more aggressive gear set up(2/1) it is easier for the engine to get the sled rolling and will continue all the way through the powerband until top end. This is what my big wrench and small wrench comment was about.
 
okay okay, that makes sense i had it backwards. so with this gear change, i now understand you will gain accel. but would you not lose top end? or will the clutches just continue to shift out more with the raised rpm?
 
As with the previous statement your sled was over geared from the factory and the engine does not make enough power to utilize all of the gear that is there, and with making the gear change it will also help your clutching that is set for the over gear condition become a little bit more aggressive (not much). With over gearing your engine would reach peak rpms but the gearing was restricting the clutches from full shift out(you are correct), now your clutches will continue to shift out and compensate for the losses from over gearing(you will be more dialed in). If you were "under geared" your sled would scream/over rev and spin the track at every instance, plus you would get nowhere fast, like driving in first and second gear in an auto.
 
hmmmmmm very interesting!!! great explanation!!! much appreciated! im sure i will be backwith more questions soon enough lol
 
Anything from where you are is an improvement. I like you had the thoughts about gearing confused until I spent a bunch of money and had miserable results, then changed to the current(1.95-1) gearing that I have now and noticed a HUGE difference. Again you will also gain fuel economy too, along with having a snappier more responsive ride.
 
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