going to look at a srx
- Thread starter pops
- Start date
upland
New member
2000 Srx
Sorry POP. I hope you got a steal on this sled. It sounds like it has been mistreated. Good luck and I hope you get everything ironed out for the season.
Sorry POP. I hope you got a steal on this sled. It sounds like it has been mistreated. Good luck and I hope you get everything ironed out for the season.
linemech31
New member
I think that you should get a second comp tester. Sounds odd to have ALL at 90psi. Even if it was not rebuilt i find it hard to beleive that they would all match at that low of compression. My 1999 shows about 120 on all three warm with either of the two compresstion testers i have. My wifes viper shows 120/140/140 warm. I bet your tester is the problem. If its not go put a boot in the guys behind that lied to you.
yea my comp. tester has always read kinda low so its time for a new one just got my multimeter today will start testing the electrical system soon, also it kinda looks like i got a 98 hood on my 2000 srx wonder if i could just replace the headlight assembly i think the windsheild is different thinkin maybe i will have to nickname it frankensrx ?
ok i did some testing this a.m. i have no spark so i tested the output at the stator seems good varing reading when pulling the rope- ok good . i also tested the kill switch on the handle bar now it gets interesting-in the up or run position i have no reading on my multimeter - nuthing however in the down or stop position i do have continuity so it sounds like it may be the handle bar switch anybody have a switch they want to get rid of ??? anybody want to comment on this i would like to hear what you think thanks
Unplug the switch and see if it solves the problem. Have to loop the TORS wires too to get it to run properly, but then youi'll know if the kill switch is the culprit.
linemech31
New member
Why not start at the coils. Pull the two socket/plugs apart hook the multi meter up and look for power comeing in while you are pulling it over. I dont have the diagram in front of me but one of the two wires is a ground check from each one to the engine block for continuity. You should have less than 1ohm or so on one of the wires. If you do have a ground but no power shown on meter (may be a quick flash of the digits on meter due to not being constantly powered) keep working your way back toward the CDI etc.... I wonder if you could unplug the stator and sub in a powersupply IE battery and put a known good sorce of power to the system. I dont know if the stator has anything to do with the timeing/rpm input to the CDI but it may be worth looking into. Also check for power and ground at the CDI as you are pulling it over. What about checking the key switch for continuity across the terminals when it is in the run position.
On a side note when checking for power to something try to use whatever the component uses for a ground because you could hook up a meter lead to the + side and then put the other lead to anywhere on the body of sled and read power BUT if the component uses a wire for a ground and it is dirty or broken you will chase your tail. Sorry for the novel hope it helps you.
On a side note when checking for power to something try to use whatever the component uses for a ground because you could hook up a meter lead to the + side and then put the other lead to anywhere on the body of sled and read power BUT if the component uses a wire for a ground and it is dirty or broken you will chase your tail. Sorry for the novel hope it helps you.
good suggestions thanks line mech, i beleive that the coils and the cdi are good here is why--- i heard it run before i bought it . now it did not run good /poor idle/missfire and i beleive that is atributed to some water in the fuel i did find water in the float bowl on number 1 carb so now you all wonder how did it run ? well as i stated in an earlier post the seller had used a jumper from somthing hot to the cdi box im still not sure where he got that hot source from and i dont care because i want to fix it right just like i know you all would too!
linemech31
New member
Sounds like a wire or connector problem. Use your multimeter and find the wireing diagram and you shall find it.
so i think it may be the on /off switch think about it , stator checks ok ,heard it run so the coils should be ok, heard it run, so the cdi should be ok but the switch checks out to be bad so all this put together tells me that the jumper that the seller used was basically bypassing the on/off switch that is bad just my therory i could be wrong
ok never really used a multimeter before so im learnin my question is what do i set it to ?here are my choices on my meter-- 2000k-200k-20k-2000-200- wich one do i use anyone? the service manual says to set it to x1 but i got no x1 go easy now i am a newbee at this electrical stuff!
pops said:
As the name implys, your meter will test voltage (a/c and d/c - straight wave vs. squiggly wave), resistance/continuity (in ohms - upside down horse shoe), and probably current/amperage.
The 1X in the manual probably means 1000 or 1K ohms so you would want to set the meter to 2k when checking for resistance values below 2000. For opens or shorts I'd set it to 200 ohms and most meters will have an audible beep when finding continuity.
Being as how this is Monday you probably figured this out by now. Good luck.
linemech31
New member
The "audio beep" mode is for checking proper function of a diode but will still tell you if you have continunity in the system with out having to look at the reading on the meter and is very helpfull. Have you found the diagram? it should tell you what "poles" are connected to eachother when you turn the switch from off to run. any two wires connected through the switch when its in the run or off position should show a dead short. near 0ohms you can tell what wires should have continunity by reviewing you diagram Let us know how you make out with this. We will see you through this. 