dooman333
New member
Hey guys, I'm in the process of buying my first sled (2001 SXR 700) and could use some basic advice. What are some more important things to pay attention too when buying? I could also use a lil help with some of the terminology you guys throw around. This sled I'm buying has adjustable transfer rods, clutch kit and extra slides and custom carbides. Help would be much appriciated.
Thanks guys, Doo
Thanks guys, Doo
sounds like it has a lot of the goodies on it already. bascally check the track to see if it is de-laminating (coming apart) and for damage to the heat exchangers from studs. look for obvious damage (bent/cracked) in the front and rear suspension and the tunnel (paint will be disturbed). look at the overall condition. if it is really clean under the hood, odds are the guy did all the proper maintenace.
dooman333
New member
Thanks for the info. What benefits would I get out of transfer rods and a clutch kit? My asumption is a smoother ride (longer travel in the suspension) and smoother shifting????
Adjustable transfer rods allow you to change the weight transfer and coupling effect of the skid. You can accelerate better, and possibly stay on top of deep snow a little better.dooman333 said:
The clutch kit is a bit of a misnomer. It is not an additional compnent that gets added, but rather simply a different clutch setup than what came stock. Many shops make good money selling a few components that collectively worked well for them during testing on a few sleds of the same model. Chances are that they may work fairly well for straighline acceleration in good conditions on your sled, but there are always trade-offs. The best results are usually obtained by tuning your specifc sled for the type of riding and conditions that you are normally in.
Tuning your sled yourself is cheaper, but takes a lot of time especially if you are just learning.
If you are new to sledding altogether, then you should have more than enough power to get you in trouble with that sled for a while. They take off much faster than they stop, so spend some time getting used to it.
Above all else, welcome and enjoy the sport. Whatever you do, try to not get bit by the modding (modification) bug.
dooman333
New member
Much appriciated. Im takin a look at this sled on tues. and im bringin my buddy Coles55. He knows his sleds better than i do. 2001 SXR 700 with 3400mi on it. hes askin 2000 for it. I'm gunna offer 1700 and see what he says. Whats this sled sellin for now a days?
As for price that all depends on location and market. Cole knows alot about these sleds and knows the terminology used, so have him check the following stuff, and show you what he is looking at so you can learn
The W arm in the rear suspension should be checked for cracks and welds
The track if stock needs a good looking over for missing or bad lugs
Custom Carbides don't mean good carbides, look at the for smooth edge or missing carbide
He may know how to look at the head gasket that sticks out to see if the rivet is missing out of it, if it is chances are it is missing 1 or 2 layers, so ask
Look at the drive belt, if it is new ask why, if it isn't look at both sides to see if it is shinny and burnt, one side being so and the other not is a sign the clutches are miss aligned
Look closely at the shock shafts and see if there is any shock oil on them, and to make sure there is no pitting in the shafts
Most important would be to take a compression gauge along and check all three cylinders. They should be right around 110-115 psi if stock, and tthats from a memory that doesn't serve me as good as it used to
I'm sure others will have more sugestions but this is a start, they are great sleds, and will run long past 3400 miles Maxdlx
The W arm in the rear suspension should be checked for cracks and welds
The track if stock needs a good looking over for missing or bad lugs
Custom Carbides don't mean good carbides, look at the for smooth edge or missing carbide
He may know how to look at the head gasket that sticks out to see if the rivet is missing out of it, if it is chances are it is missing 1 or 2 layers, so ask
Look at the drive belt, if it is new ask why, if it isn't look at both sides to see if it is shinny and burnt, one side being so and the other not is a sign the clutches are miss aligned
Look closely at the shock shafts and see if there is any shock oil on them, and to make sure there is no pitting in the shafts
Most important would be to take a compression gauge along and check all three cylinders. They should be right around 110-115 psi if stock, and tthats from a memory that doesn't serve me as good as it used to
I'm sure others will have more sugestions but this is a start, they are great sleds, and will run long past 3400 miles Maxdlx
Umm, did your good buddy Cole talk you into a screen name like "DooMan" on a Yamaha based website!!!!
Just bust'n your chops, welcome to the site and to snowmobiling, they are both extremely addicting.
Just bust'n your chops, welcome to the site and to snowmobiling, they are both extremely addicting.
dooman333
New member
Haha! Guess I never thought of it that way! My last name is Doolittle. (no i can't talk to animals haha) They've been callin me Doo or Dooman for years now. just kinda stuck I guess. But don't worry, my first sled will def be a Yam!!
Dooman
Maybe you should try Dootalk! LOL! Seriously though, welcome to the site. You are buying a good reliable sled. Enjoy!
Madmatt
Maybe you should try Dootalk! LOL! Seriously though, welcome to the site. You are buying a good reliable sled. Enjoy!
Madmatt
Doolittle you fag! Lets go to Appleton and get this sled!
dooman333
New member
Oh we're gettin her jackass! Tell your ma I say hi. HAHA JK! You gunna be ready tues?