I was wondering what i should start to check for? When i bought the sled the origanal owner told me it stopped working awhile go. I was just going to buy a gas cap with the needle installed already but would rather have my dash gas gauge work. Hopefully its an easy fix.
After doing some searching i read that if i use a magnet and stick it inside my tank that i can adjust and see if my float is stuck. Ill post back later tonight with the details
Make sure the sending unit is plugged in. Yes I did that once.
Where would that be? Easy to access?
Front of the tank. Two wires. Mine had a green plug on my 99. I flopped it real hard in the ditch one time and when I got everything back to level I noticed it wasn't working. Messed with it for half the winter before I noticed it was unplugged. Worked ever since.
Yeah i just fiddled with the float, moved it up and down while the sled was running. The gas needle didnt even move. Ill try what you said Ryan, Thanks
Stupid question, but you dont need to remove the tank do you?
Stupid question, but you dont need to remove the tank do you?
Nope. It's tucked between the tank and the steering post. Right in there somewhere.
Gotcha thanks buddy. I found them and there all connected. There were 2 connectors. Both were connected
I'm all out of easy fixes then. The cap from the 98 mtn 600 has the gauge in it. That would be the one to order if you decide to go that route.
no1chevyboy
New member
fuel gauge is usually resistance to ground so if you jump both wires leading to dash fuel gauge should read full, if it does this then sender is bad or broken wire on sender side if it doesnt then broken wire on dash side or smoked gauge
no1chevyboy said:
Very good idea. I should have tried that. Thanks
no1chevyboy said:
Agreed. The standard for years was low resistance = high fuel level, high resistance = low fuel level but that has changed in the past 10 years or so with anti-slosh clusters and a lot of OEMs (automotive anyhow) have reversed.
Hook an ohm meter to the two leads coming out of the tank and measure the resistance while moving the float and you'll know which way. Shorting the wires together should peg the gauge either way.
If you get a smooth change in resistance when moving the float (no intermittent opens or spikes) you've just confirmed your problem is elsewhere.
I'm not sure what the regulated voltage from the gauge is (usually either battery - 12V - or stepped down to 5V), but you should read voltage (perhaps even pulsed) out of the gauge and the same thing at the sender connector. The other wire at the sender connector goes to ground.
i have one of those caps if you decide to go that route.Gagt518 said: