Power valve testing

V

viperkuku

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Jun 17, 2004
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Cleaned the power valves on a 2000 SRX and after assembly I went to hook the maximum performance power valve tester up and noticed that on a SRX there is only two wires to hook to, a red and black one. On my viper there is three wires. The tester has a three wires, one blue, one red and one black, my question is on that SRX which wires do I hook where and which one don't I use???? :o|
 
Tester

Do you have the instructions that came with it? Not trying to be a smart a$$, just wanted to know if you at least have the diagram that shows where to plug what. If I remember correctly there should only be 2 wires on the SRX harness so one of the tester wires will be unused. If you don't have a copy of the instructions I can try to scan them in or maybe describe to you what wires to use.
 
Adj PV's

Kuku - I just went through this with my 01 SRX. The adapter from Maxx perf, throw it out, thats a pain in the arce.
Take the pv cover off, start up your sled and get it warmed up. Turn the idle down to under 900 rpm's, this will cause the pv servo to pull the valves wide open. Kill the engine and mark the servo motor pulley and make a reference mark (so that the two marks line up to indicate the pv's are wide open) with a metal marker. This is so you can just position the motor to these marks in the future for adjustment. This was suggested to me by other members of this forum and it worked very well.

Good luck.
 
I had no problem with the Maxx Perf PV tester. I also have an '01 SRX. The white plug was directly to left of the PV motor (toward center of sled)had 3 wires (plug actually ended in a blank empty 3 pin plug) and the instructions were dead on. Make sure you are looking at the right plug. What wire colors are in the 2 wire plug you found? But the other method would probably work as well. You only have to use the PV tester one time OR run the sled and drop the engine RPM down below 900RPM until it stalls and check the servo motor and get the reference point of where the cable slot holes are positioned and make the marks on the PV housing, right above the pulley wheel. Once you have it marked you will always have the reference point to adjust from. Hope that helps
 
I just cleaned my PV's also and did the run uner 900 rpm technique. Worked like a charmed, I actually watched the servo just to make sure.

Do you think my sled will run better now that I have three working and adjusted power valves? One had the cable pulled through the end although they weren't that dirty, and all three had about 7-8mm of gap instead of the 2-3.5 that is recommended...
 
I have to ask a really stupid question. How or what do you measure to get your 7-8mm and then adjust down to 2-3.5mm? The figure in the top of picture http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/YPVS/ypvc2.jpg shows the valve clearance as dimension "a". I take that as the distance between valve housing 1 (piece with 4 bolts part 8 in explode diagram) and valve housing 2 (piece with 2 bolts, part 13) Where does the valve come into play? I can move valve housing 2 anywhere from touching (0mm) valve housing 1 to competely off.

I'm missing something easy here. Help
thanks
Dan
 
Hi Dan,
This was my first time so someone PLEASE correct me if I am wrong, but if you let the springs create the gap, and just keep the gap at the top and the bottom the same, then measure. Then you use the end of the cable going into the servo to adjust in or out to increase or decrease the gap. I had to turn mine out to decrease the gap. I am hoping that I did this right, seemed to be fine when I fired her up so we will see LOL!!
 
Thanks for the reply klrgreenis, I understand what you describe. The springs making the gap makes sense to me. hopefully someone with more experience with confirm, but I'll run with your info next time.
 
We did finally get the valves set, and klrgreenis is right on letting the springs set the gap. We couldn't get the power valve tester working so we put the pipes back on and run it under 900 rpm's until the motor opened all the way and then we marked where it opened to and set the valves at the 2mm setting. Then we took the pipes and manifold off and the valve was flush when you felt in the exhaust opening so must have did something right. Thanks for all the help. :WayCool:
 
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