T.O.R.S Throttle override system

H

Haddly

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Nov 10, 2003
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Any one had trouble with this. Have service manual and it doesn't explain this to much. I have had it kick on a couple of time and very anoying. I have checked out my sled for problems and found no. Went through book and have nothing mechanical wrong. The book seems to say its all in the adjustment of the cable. Can anyone give me some insite on this so it won't ever come on again?
Thanks.
 
The carbs have the throttle cable coming down, and if it's out of adjustment it will trip the TORS switch as you try to open the throttle. How high is your idle?

Another way this can get tripped is the switch in the throttle block. If you look behind the throttle lever, you'll see a small switch. Shoot a little contact cleaner in there for good measure.

If everything is adjusted and working properly, it won't come on. Check things out and post back.
 
TORS

What model sled have you got? My old Phazer has been giving me fits with this thing! I'm trying a "kill or cure" fix. I jumpered the black/yellow tors wire and the black ground together right at the CDI box. Before this I tried hooking the wires together at the carbs and hooking the two wires together coming out of the handle bar switch and it would still come on intermittently (makes for a REAL FUN day of riding!). My guess is there is a break in the wiring between the throttle switch and the CDI box. If this don't fix it then there must be something wrong with the CDI box itself making it kick on. I'm not spending the money to fix it on an '88 sled. As soon as I get the engine back together I'll let you know if it works.
 
The T.O.R.S operates such that the "black/yellow" wire at the CDI must always see -12VDC or "a ground" for it to operate properly and offer you the saftey it was meant for.... If for some reason there is an abnormal situation, such as a frozen open carb, then this wire sees nothing, ie. the ground to this wire is removed..... Under this condition, the RPM's drop to 3000 and it appears as though the engine is cutting out.....

To effectively by-pass the T.O.RS., simply make a junction connection on the B/Y wire as close to the CDI as possible and simply "ground" this connection....Bye Bye T.O.R.S......

If you study the wiring diagram carefully, it becomes clear how it really works and might just lend a hand at troubleshooting the problem....

By-pass that thing only as a last resort.....

Good luck...
 
Thanks for the help

I had trouble with it coming on once in a while and really make you mad.
I don't want to by pass anything if possible. so the things to check out is the switch under my idle adjustment and the switch on the throttle it self right? I only had trouble with it last year when I adjusted the idle seep up. after that its been adjust and adjust and adjust but it always come back on.
 
At what speed does it idle now?

The whole idea behind the TORS is to kill the rpms if the carbs are open while the throttle is shut, a super high idle can trip it, as well as a high idle adjustment to counteract a problem at idle. If you're fouling plugs at idle, it's time to go through the carbs and readjust everything. Sup?
 
I dont think carbs are the problem

The idle right now is set ad 1 and 1/2 and it dosn't do it all the time just once ina while while I am ragging on it. ripping around for a lil while like a hour or so then when I open it upand fly it will come on. I am sick of this sys and I think I am going to go through every thing one more time using book page by page and if I can't find nothing I am going to over ride it.

98 srx 700 idle speed set to 1 1/2
so you think I should start by rippping carbs off?
It dosn't foul plugs at all right now, rund nice and steady at idle
 
You should always have approximately 1/8" of throttle free-play at the throttle lever..... This is, when you squeeze the throttle lever, there should be 1/8" of movement of the lever before the throttle bodys start to move.... This ensures a closed circuit at the carb switch (the one under the idle adjustment).....You adjust this play with the idle adjust screw.....

Also check that the contacts for the carb switch (the one under the idle adjustment) are clean....

Then, test the switch at the throttle lever....With the sled at idle (ie. the throttle lever at rest, the switch should be open).... With the throttle lever depressed (the switch should be closed).....

Check the resistance of both switches when they are in the closed state.... They should be less than 2-3 ohms......

It really sounds like not enough free-play at the throttle lever or a faulty switch at the throttle lever....

Not too confusing I hope?

Good luck and post back...
 
TORS

Haddly; this may offend some of the real tried-and-true Yamaha fans, but IMHO, the TORS system is junk (I even had a Yamaha mechanic tell me that!), and the older your sled gets, the more trouble it will give you. Arctic Cat uses/used a similiar system. I fought with it the whole time I owned my Cat, and I've fought with it on my Yamy. Cold, damp air and microswitches don't mix. I recommend bypass surgery.
 
With the added info there, it just might be your stator going. I haven't owned a phazer, so I haven't delved into the problem, but phazers did suffer from some hot running problems. Suposedly, the stator would heat up and drop a cylinder...

Next time it does it, shut it down, and pull a plug. Figure out if it's th same cylinder every time, or if it's random.

If you disconnect the tors wires from the carbs and plug them together, it's bypassed. Do this for a test and see if you get it to happen again.

Might not be the TORS after all...
 
I had a 98 Venture that had the same type of problem, after running hard and a lot of turns, the thing would stutter or miss 1 time. By-pass the TORS and it went away. Never did figure out the real problem. And Brettem57 it dosn't bother me, I always thought the TORS was junk,but it works most of the time, it's hard to say how many accidents it has saved. Much better than the tether line that some sleds have because most of the tethers are rapped up out of the way so they couldn't work if needed.
 
Bypass

The problem with connecting the two wires together at the carbs is that it only cuts out the switch on the carbs. Current is still flowing through the throttle switch (or not!). That's what's been driving me nuts for so long on my sled. I finally figured this out after studying the wiring diagram for myself, and quit listening to everbody else. Therefore, I soldered the Black/Yellow lead to the Black lead right at the CDI box. That should eliminate any possibility of a bad connection. Yes the TORS is a good idea, but it's hard to keep working on an antique like mine, and I'm not ready to give up my old Phazer yet. Maybe I can come home under my own power from a ride this winter!
 
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