121 to 141" SXR HELP

BBlueSRX

BBlueSRX

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michigan
I have a 2000 SXr that I am going to stretch to 141. I have a 136 skid which I believe is out of a mountain SRX and a 2" 141 challenger track along with 8t drivers. I need to know how to relocate the skid. I have the drop brackets on the skid but do you just relocate it directly back 3"?? I am assuming I drill out and relocate the existing mounting hardware that is on the tunnel? I also need a tunnel extension if anyone has one laying around. any sugestions on gearing/clutching?? piped 700SXr. Thanks
 
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your relocation points will be a little different than the way your thinking. your sx is now a 121. if your putting in a 136 skid, the easiest way is to get the mount points from the donor sled. the msrx front w arm mounted in the same location as your sled, leaving a less than desirable approach angle. thats why they didnt work in deep snow. stick with your stock skid and some rail extensions, along with drop brackets and i will give you the math to make it work. or, the equation your working should be 2.5".
 
bought the skid and track in the spring so I dont have access to the donor sled. the guy I bought it from told me you could move the 136 skid back which changes the approach angle? this setup came out of a MSRX with the 141 track and 136 skid. was this guy BSin or can it be done? Snowdad, yes it would be 2.5 inches. directly back?
 
the msrx came with a 136. so if the skid doesnt have some extensions on it, he probably did a relocate. i did a couple 136-141 conversions on msrxs by relocatiing. i usually drop the front mount down about 5/8" after going back the 2 1/2". in your situation, you will need to know the stock center to center and drop from the front arm to the rear scissor. this number is the key to a properly working skid. i usually make my own drop brackets for the rear from 1/4" aluminum. make sure all your mount points have some kind of backing plates. you will need a tunnel extension as well. search the members here for msrx owners and see if one would take the time to measure. msrxrider, i think, out of spokane on here may help. i have helped him in the past. good luck.
 
Steering Hoop Mount

If I remember right 2.5"-3" gets you right in the way of the steering hoop bracket and remember you went from 9 tooth to 8 tooth drivers which makes you closer to 3" back because of the OD difference of the drivers. If you go behind the bulkhead plate make sure you reinforce the front mount holes outside the tunnel as well as the inside or the tunnel will Spider Crack
 
I really dont want to mount the front arm behind the bulkhead. I was 240lbs when i bought the sled 6 yrs ago now im 325. I dont like the idea of blowing holes in my tunnel and having to swap that out, I break enough parts as it is. I could really care less about the approach angle, its not a mountain sled, so would I be better off trying to get a 136" track instead of this 141? and would the MSRX skid be a direct mount? This guy had me convinced this was easy but I'm starting to have my doubts.
 
front arm is already behind the bulkhead. you just have to move it back a little more. gild was correct as to the steering hoop, forgot about that issue(its been awhile), but the math still applies. what gild and i were referring to as the backing plates is move them, or add some new at the new mounting points. you just cant drill holes in the tunnel and expect it to hold up. take a close look at what the yamaha engineers did for reinforcement (ie, how your sled is now) and duplicate it at the new mount points, or move the factory stuff to the new mount points. its a straight forward relocate, all the stuff is there, all your missing is the arm to arm mounting dimensions. yes, it all will work, its up to you to get it there. be brave and go for it. lots of coaches on this site.
 
I can give you the stock measurments off my 98 MSRX. My ? is whats the difference between the mounting holes on a 00 sxr 121" and a 98 msrx with a 136"? They are both pro-action skids. This is my sled now. I put a 151" on it last year. I used a rear extension from a Mtn Max. Riveted it to the existing extension. I found a 2000 mtn max extension,but no cooler or bumper and hose covers. I need some kind of rack on it now.
Picture219.jpg
 
Front mount holes

The front mount holes if you don't relocate the skid is the same on the SXr and the MSRX. The rear mount point is further back on the 136" MSRX and you will need drop brackets which as Snowdad said can be made from 1/4" aluminum plate. The rear cross shaft is shorter on the MSRX so you need that 1/4" plate to compensate for the shorter shaft. Yamaha uses a stamped steel plate to accomplish this. You will then need to build or buy rail extensions to fit the 141. If you make your own extensions remember to restack the rear wheel bushings to compensate the changes.
In my opinion the 136 rails are designed for the trail because of the steep attack angle and inferior to the 141 mountain rails for the deeper snow. The 136 suspension worked better for me kicked back 8" and a 151 track
MSXRIDER can give you the rear mount measurements or find a 97-99 MMax they are the same
Pic of my daughter on my SXr with 141 rails and a 162 X 2 1/4 track Suspension kicked back a whole bunch
 

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OK that is what I was wondering. I can drill out the front mounts in the tunnel and move them back for the front arm. should I drop them 5/8" or just move them 3" horizontally? The center arm doesnt have any reinforcements, it goes directly through the tunnel and I have the drop brackets for the rear on the skid. so whats the deal with this steering hoop?? Thank you for all the replies and info
 
the steering hoop issue, if you look where your feet plant forward on the running boards, there is a bracket(for lack of a better term) that bolts to the tunnel on both sides. this is a one piece hoop that incororates landing spots for body plastics and the top of your steering shaft. the 2.5"-3" setback may land at this mounting point on the tunnel. i would have to think about how i overcame the last setback i did on a msrx 136-141. without the sled in front of me, i dont know. measure your existing bolt for the front arm and see where 2 1/2" hits at the hoop mount, then you will get the idea. i prefer the 5/8 down method as i feel it makes for a lighter front end, but that my opinion and experience. read lighter front as more transfer.
 
5/8"

The OD difference between 8 - 9 tooth drivers is 3/4" so you loose 3/8" clearance between the W arm cross shaft and the underside of the track which is no big deal but if you decide to lower the rear skid mount points for running board clearance it can become an issue.
The SXr has a lot of built in front end sag and will load the centre shock more then the MSRX which has hardly any sag and sits higher in the front so I didn't drop the front mount point
 
here is where I am at. I pulled the motor out and the steering post mount was pulled through and front heat exchanger was swingin in the wind (15000 mile special). Got a chassis in great shape from another 2000 SXr. Here are some problems I am seeing....I am going from a 121" skid to a 136" skid and the dimensions for stock mounting position is different for the 121 and 136. So i called my uncle and got the dimensions off his 2001 ventures with the 136 skid. So I need to go 2 7/8" directly back from the mounting postion on the venture. I will need to cut around the side heat exchangers to move the brackets back and still need to do something about this steering hoop?? I've got the bare chassis here I am going to be working with until I get everything relocated. Cut the bottom half of the steering hoop off and throw a bolt through it at the lowest point? How did you guys deal with this? also I noticed the venture hs an upper idler shaft mounted in the rear of the tunnel. I dont have one so is it necessary?
 
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steering hoop

Drilling through the centre of your steering hoop and building a spacer or a stack of washer so you can tighten the bolt will work but move the inner backing plates both sides also. You don't want your swing arm rubbing on the aluminum tunnel.
 
suspension install

I don't know what those rear idlers are unless it the centre shaft where the FRA is. The only other is on the old Phazer/Exciter sus ????
Before you drill the rear holes clamp the rear brkts to the tunnel and install the suspension WITHOUT the shock springs and check to see if you have any binding issues this will save you from cheesecaking your tunnel
 
already drilled through the steering post and installed drop brackets.I am using the stock yamaha drop brackets off the MSRX. Having some issues with the coolers. cut them off around the mounting brackets on the inside of the tunnel? also does the MSRX have angle reinforcement the whole length of the tunnel? where I mounted the rear 3" back there is no reinforcement angle above. thinking about taking angle off old chassis and rivet it in??? thank you everyone :2strokes:
 
bracing

My MSRX had a huge steel L shaped tunnel reinforcement plates upper both sides. I kept them and are yours if you want them, just pay shipping. Refresh my memory, is the OEM MSRX rear drop bracket the kind of half moon steel plate with 3 mounting bolts to the tunnel ?
I have sent pics of the reinforcment brkts that you can have for freight costs
 

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pics

here are some pics of what I have. Gild, those steel braces are completely different than what I have... not sure where to go from here.
 

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Pics

Didn't get pics but the ones I posted are the stock MSRX ones which are over built but maybe good for your weight
I think The MSRX heat exchangers were drilled out for the drop brkts but larger than the bolt size which sandwiched everything when tightened with the drop plate mounting bolts. The MSRX had huge heat exchangers not like the newer sleds and longer than the 121 skids. I have run 136 " susp to 156" tracks in stock tunnels with no issues when properly braced. I had spider cracked an Ekholme tunnel because it was not braced.
Just brace it and make sure it does not bind and you should be good to go,if you want the plates let me know.
 
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