Belt Deflection and Clutch Help Greatly Needed!!

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phazerBILL

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Hi, I have a 99 V max 500. A year ago I blew the belt on it(it was some sort of Dayco), so I bought a new Yamaha one(8JC-17461-00-00) and put it on. The belt squealed for a while but I thought it was normal. I noticed the sled wasnt as grabby and just flat out seemed slower. My 84 Phazer would almost take it. So I took it off today and found this. All the cogs were burnt off/glazed. Is it supposed to be like this? Im pretty sure I'm going to need a new belt.
Now should I stick with a new Yamaha belt or try something else? Also do I need to add washers or remove washers for the belt deflection?! HOW DO YOU REMOVE THE SECONDARY CLUTCH?!? Im at lost here, and don't want to break anything expensive ha ha.Oh and BTW I've looked at the tech notes, I just dont understand them very well. Im kinda dumb haha.
 

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yeah um you will need a new belt, and only use Yamaha belt, for Yamaha they are the only decent belt, aftermarket belts for Yamaha are garbage, good for the other major 3 manufacturers though, as for removing the secondary belt, remove the belt, put on the parking brake, and just take out the bolt, and for putting the secondary back on, put on the parking brake and just bolt it back on good and tight. As for belt reflection, someone else will have to chime in here :)
 
The secondary is easy to take off once the belt if off, just take off the one big bolt in the center, then the secondary should slide right off the jack shaft. Adding washers/shims to the 3 small bolts in the back of the secondary make to belt sit up higher in the sheave, thus giving you less deflection, or tightening the belt. I'm not sure about the 500, but my 700sx specs are for the top of the belt to sit approx. 1/16 to 1/8 inch above the sheaves. If you have it set right, when the track is up in the air, and you goose it, and let it settle down to idle, the track should still inch real slowly. Yamaha sells 2 washers/shims for that, a .5 mm and a 1 mm.
 
Does anyone know if washers from a hardware store work? I understand removing the clutch and adding and removing washers/shims, now for the belt deflection..... THANKS FOR THE HELP! Keep it up!
 
Belt deflection is how tight the belt is. The more shims you use the tighter the belt will get because as you add shims the bolt doesn't hold the clutch open as much, pushing the belt up higher in the sheaves. As far as washers from the hardware store, they will do in a pinch, but all three need to be the same thickness. Not all washers from the hardware store are the same thickness even if they are the same size.
 
How do I know when the deflection is set properly? Whats the measurement on how far above/below the belt sits in the secondary?
 
Thank you I think that sums it up! Got my new belt, slides, and shims(although i probably wont need them) coming from portyamaha at the moment
 
Wait one more dumb question. Is the clutch bolt right tighty lefty loosey? I tried earlier but I REALLY dont want to twist it off lol.
 
My clutch doesnt squeel but Ive never done anything to the belt deflection. If I make sure its within speck will I see any performance increase?
 
No problem, you don't have to use the washers. Just take the last washers off and see what that does for you. Make sure between adjustments you lift the track off the ground and run it a little so the belt will ride down into the clutch some. Run it a little to get the "cold" out of the track. Then DON'T use the brake and just let it slow back down until the track stops, belt should then be ready for you to check where it's sitting. You can set the deflection by either measuring the height of the belt like you're doing now, or just adjust until the track (while sitting off the ground, of course) slightly turns at idle, moves with short, jerky movements, or moves very easily with slight help from you. I set mine the latter way on my Viper and the belt always seems to end up sitting flush with the top of the sheaves. Keep in mind that if the clutch ends up squealing at an idle like the previous one was doing, you need to remove some shims. It is a fine line (on my sled anyway) between the track rotating when off the ground and the belt wanting to squeal at idle.

BTW, I've seen the bolts that you use the spacers on have the ends wear down pretty bad, if you can't get the belt where you want it, you may have to buy new bolts and then start over again. The ends of the bolts will definitely wear over time. All the bolts do is go in and contact the other side of the clutch, thus holding them apart. By adding washers you're keeping the bolt from going in as far and thus allowing the sheaves to sit closer to each other which squeezes the belt up higher to the top. Vice-versa for removing the washers. The bolts go in farther, hold the two halves farther apart, and allow the belt to sit lower.
 
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