Tors

I just posted this to another TY'er and this was not very clear to them so call if you need to. 1-800-798-0867 x318


Here is my way to describe it.... find the two wires that go to the carbs, unplug them and plug the two that are not on the carb into each other. Or if you are not sure which ones to plug into each other just do it to both pairs of wires.

Tod
 
opps - did not read your post well - that is how tobypass at the carbs not in the throttle block.

It would be similar though. You need to complete the circut as the switch is a Normally closed switch. Why do it in the block?? the harness side is the one to worry about. If you do it in the block the carb switch can still be an issue.??????????????
 
Just like TOD stated. It should do the same electricly its just at another location.
 
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The TORS is there incase your throttle sticks open. When you let off the thumb lever the TORS sences this. If your throttle is stuck open the TORS will shut your RPS down to idle.

You can check to see if your TORS is working correclty by holding the pivot point of your thumb lever. If you look at the pivot point as you apply throttle you will see it moves towards the left before you really apply any throttle. If you hold this pivot point from moving you will start to cut out and will not be abel to accelerate.

The thumb throttle accually depresses a small switch in the throttle block. This switch when acuated allows you to accelerate. If the switch is open then you RPS are limited to just off of idle.

Hope this makes sence........I cant spell or explain it well when typing.


Only bypass it if it acts up out on the trail. Get it fixed ASAP.
mine works half the time and is bypassed the other half.
 
I have seen other riders who have done this and their carbs froze up or throttle stuck and it was not a pretty site. I would not recommend it.
 
I did this test as you suggested, I held the pivot point of the throttle and it works perfect, does this mean my switch at the throttle is worn out or sticks? And if so is the switch part of the kill switch, or separate. I am not going to disable it, I want to fix it right.
What is the "ACTUAL" Tors switch called if i told the dealer what I need. Do I ask for a TORS switch?
 
Brunter Burner said:
I did this test as you suggested, I held the pivot point of the throttle and it works perfect, does this mean my switch at the throttle is worn out or sticks? And if so is the switch part of the kill switch, or separate. I am not going to disable it, I want to fix it right.
What is the "ACTUAL" Tors switch called if i told the dealer what I need. Do I ask for a TORS switch?
Click to expand...

IF THE THROTTLE OPERATION WORKS FINE WHEN YOU DEPRESS THE SWITCH, BUT NOT NORMALLY CHANCES ARE YOU JUST NEED TO ADLUST THE THROTTLE CABLE SLACK. TORS MEANS THROTLLE OVER RIDE SWITCH AND IF YOU ASK THE DEALER FOR A TORS THATS WHAT THEY CALL IT
 
I will try to loosen the throttle cable a touch tonight and take her out. I had to switch choke cables on it too, one was bound up. Could the throttle cable sticking do the same as described?
 
Brunter Burner said:
I will try to loosen the throttle cable a touch tonight and take her out. I had to switch choke cables on it too, one was bound up. Could the throttle cable sticking do the same as described?
Click to expand...

absolutely. that's what the tors is designed for
 
Tors Trouble

I'm having Tors trouble too. Even after connecting the carb wires together this does not override the system. Throttle cable is penty loose. When I unplug the on/off under the handlebar pad then the motor runs. I need to fix this any suggestions to troubleshoot.
 
Loosening the throttle cable did not help. I also tried soaking the spring and cable assembly with penatrating oil. I will see how it is tomorrow. I may not quite understand how the "switch" is supposed to work. Does is sense the cable, or the pin attached to the thumb throttle contol? Or is there more than one switch? The thumb one seems to move in and out fine. I guess I am not sure where the problem exactly exists. Please explain (in detail) if possible. Thanks. Again, if I hold the "pin" of the throttle handle toward the body of the controls it runs great, but when I let go, it acts up. I am stumped!
 
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