SRX engine bay cleaning

K

KneeDown

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Just bought a used 00 SRX 700, the engine is pretty clean but the belly pan/carbs/etc is covered in oil and grease. Was thinking of taking the airbox off and sealing the carbs well. Then drive to the local car wash with some engine degreaser and clean the inside of the pan out. Any thoughts on this? Didnt see any drain plugs on the bottom of the sled, am i missing it? or there just isnt one?

Thanks guys ;)!
 
i would not ....i would remove the motor and wire harness ....and than go to town on it with a pressure washer .....i can see water getting in the harness and not drying before it freezes causing more problems ...not to mention the stator ,cdi,and regulators ,......i just see it as a disaster waiting to happen ....i took the air box out and used rags and degreaser ...but wasnt happy so i removed the motor ....very easy ...takes like 25 to 30 min
 
Well even with the motor out, once you washed it, how did you get the left over gunk/water out? I guess with the exhaust off, there would be a big hole in the pan where the silencer goes.


Didnt want to pull the motor out, as ive heard its a P.I.A to burp the cooling system. But you know how people exagerate.
 
its no problem to burp the yamaha cooling systems. i take the engines out and use the product called "engine brite" by GUNK.....smells like kerosene/diesel fuel. probably the same stuff....LOL. it works pretty good. you just spray the stuff on and use a tooth brush to scrub a little and then wash w/garden hose. i also use brake cleaner. there are a few little drain holes in the belly pan, where 95% of the water drains out. the rest just wipe up w/a rag.
 
I pressure wash all my sleds. Some with the engine out, and some with the engine left in. The water will drain. I use a leaf blower to help dry it off and chase water out.

Just go slow and be careful where you point the nozzle. Do not force water into things that don't need it like bearings and underhood foam.
 
pull the pipes, can, airbox,carbs and clutches, off and you can do the whole compartment. coat spray nine cleaner on all the plastic and stainless, clean with a cloth, and it makes everything like new, all back together in two hours, plus it gives you a chance to inspect all your parts, i do it to all my sleds every year!! cheers
 
Ding said:
I pressure wash all my sleds. Some with the engine out, and some with the engine left in. The water will drain. I use a leaf blower to help dry it off and chase water out.

Just go slow and be careful where you point the nozzle. Do not force water into things that don't need it like bearings and underhood foam.
Click to expand...

I know about the foam... I found out the hard way!
From now on the pressure stays on the plastic!
 
I took my SRX engine out a few weeks back to clean everything up good.At the same time checked wiring harness and re-routed it to.Not that easy,but can be done.Worst part for me was getting the damn engine back in without snapping oil lines and the such and connecting the main oil line.I hurt my back doing it but will heal.At least it is all back in,cleaned up,clutches are aligned and got the exhaust fitting better then before.Pulled a few times and it fired up again..I was happy then.. ;)!
Going to drop the rear of the skid tomorrow and remove rear wheels and 4 upper wheels to check and repack the bearings for peace of mind.
 
Thanks for all the responses guys ;)!

Glad im not the only one that wants a clean engine bay, some people look at me like i got two heads when i mention it LOL

I think what ill try doing is pulling the carbs since i was going to do that anyways and all the pipes. Then see what i can get to from there.


To mopar1: thats the same stuff i was gonna use, it works good. dunno if youve ever tried the gel style but it seems to work better (but more expensive)
 
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while you have those carbs off clean them too (inside not just outside) if they're that covered in grease they obviousely haven't been done much, need to do it every year, also clean your powervalves and adjust (could have pull-thrus too)
 
staggs65 said:
while you have those carbs off clean them too (inside not just outside) if they're that covered in grease they obviousely haven't been done much, need to do it every year, also clean your powervalves and adjust (could have pull-thrus too)
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I completely agree. Never done a set of these TMXs but id say I have a lot of experience w/ carbs in general. Trying to find a manual so i can find float specs and jetting too, to see where im at.

Hope the power-valves aern't completely gone, but w/ 9K miles on the sled it wouldnt suprise me either. Ive seen the price of new ones too :o|
 
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mopar1rules said:
its no problem to burp the yamaha cooling systems. i take the engines out and use the product called "engine brite" by GUNK.....smells like kerosene/diesel fuel. probably the same stuff....LOL. it works pretty good. you just spray the stuff on and use a tooth brush to scrub a little and then wash w/garden hose. i also use brake cleaner. there are a few little drain holes in the belly pan, where 95% of the water drains out. the rest just wipe up w/a rag.
Click to expand...


X2 - I think the can suggests running the engine first to heat it up but I haven't seen that it makes much of a difference. I leave everything together (i.e. airbox, pipes) which keeps the carbs relatively sealed and use light water pressure (either with or without a pressure washer) around sensative areas like the coils, carbs and pipe sheilds. Even without scrubbing, the Engine Bright works real well at getting major grime off without high pressure.

Once everything is rinsed, I start the sled and let it run for a good while (20 minutes or until the HX are toasty) to help dry areas I can't wipe dry especially the pipe shield packing.

As Ding suggested, I clean everything I'm about to do major work on (cars, boats, sleds, PWCs) to ensure I'm not introducing dirt/contamination when things are opened up and it also makes for a more pleasurable experience.

I finish up with spraying everything with silicone spray or Amsoil metal protector.

I know guys that just dig right in but they're also the same guys that buy silicone sealer by the case.

Yeah, I've gotten those funny looks too. :>)
 
tntmax said:
pull the pipes, can, airbox,carbs and clutches, off and you can do the whole compartment. coat spray nine cleaner on all the plastic and stainless, clean with a cloth, and it makes everything like new, all back together in two hours,
plus it gives you a chance to inspect all your parts
Click to expand...
, i do it to all my sleds every year!! cheers
Click to expand...
Very good point. Its only a matter of time before a coolant hose rubbing against something or loose recoil bolts, wires loom and wires rubbing through, etc, etc cause an issue down the road. This thread made me realize its prob best to spend the day removing everything for that reason plus you can do a better job cleaning and sealing up the exhaust leaks anyhow...
 
Yea, but SNOMOFO you can fix anything with silicone sealer......just ask the asshat I bought my house from! :o|

Meat
 
Im def planning on doing this over the summer after this season!...

1 question... when taking out the engine im assuming I need to realigne the clutched right?
 
meat12 said:
Yea, but SNOMOFO you can fix anything with silicone sealer......just ask the asshat I bought my house from! :o|

Meat
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LOL!!

I worked next to a guy that was the greatest tech in the world (self described). He charged out a tube of silicone with every overhaul (auto and manual) and was also famous for bringing a trans pan to the customer lounge filled cigar ashes, er, um clutch material to sell unnecassary overhauls.

Aside from all the unopened o-haul kits he had in his trade material cabinet, he had hundereds of unopened tubes of silicone. I asked him one day what he planned to do with all of it and his reply was "patch my roof".

He only lasted a few weeks and he must've been doing it for years.

Maybe he moved over to your way. LOL - Thanks for the chuckle.
 
Ride.Race.Live said:
Im def planning on doing this over the summer after this season!...

1 question... when taking out the engine im assuming I need to realigne the clutched right?
Click to expand...

yep, you will need to realign the clutches after taking the engine out and putting back in.
 
meat12 said:
If you have damaged powervalves look here.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=48321&page=1&pp=10
Click to expand...


Update: pulled all 3 valves today, all of them had pulled thru. Never would have checked them before i came to this site, u guys rock ;)!

Think im going to try replace the head w/ the stainless bolt, think that would cure the problem for good.

By the way, how do you get the welded on carbon off of these valves? I started to clean one w/ a brass wire brush but then it occured to me the valves may have a special top coating so that carbon is less likely to stick.

Any thoughts/ideas?
 
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